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3.5 EB towing help

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Old 07-25-2017, 08:48 PM
  #11  
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How about just hook up the trailer, fill the fuel tank, put everything and everyone that you are going to have in it and run it across a truck scale. If it weighs more than the gvw of the truck you are overloaded, if not you aren't.
Old 07-25-2017, 09:03 PM
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Load the trailer light, try to keep it under 6000#. I had a 14 Lariat RWD with a 1470# payload, and with me and 2 kids, generator, 5 gallon fuel can, and a tool box in the bed, along with an ARE topper, I was pulling a 6300# wet trailer with 3.15 gearing up and over I70 in Colorado, WITHOUT a tow package! A bit surprised Ford put 3.15 gears on a truck with a tow package, but the 3.5EB can pull with those gears just fine.

Going 3.55 or 3.73 is a good choice, the shorter gears are a bit of overkill for the EB. I'm pulling the same trailer with a 16 Lariat with 1580# payload, 3.55 gears and it is a beast.

Just watch the weight of the trailer, and if you reach max weight with just you and all the gear, think about traveling with a second car. That's what we did for long trips, gives us the ability to leave the truck when tooling around. My wife has a Focus so worked out well, I can leave a day ahead and have her catch up with the others.
Old 07-29-2017, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by tow this
I brought the trailer back from Tampa. I live 5 hours South. It handled it at 60 MPH.
The trailer is 7500 dry or wet? What's the make and model?

7500 is about as heavy a travel trailer that a half ton can handle "comfortably". Some go over that.

12% tongue weight (don't go any lower) is 900 lbs. you hitch should be rated for 1050 I believe. Check. If you will be 900 lbs dry and still need to add a weight distribution hitch and all your things. Keep the tongue weight at a minimum of 12% and get an Anderson hitch. I believe they are the lightest hitch, could help
some.

If you load and crunch the numbers and it's still not working, you could look into a ProPride or Hensley hitch. If you don't want to upgrade the truck of course. This doesn't lighten the load, but many report better towing when you are "right at the limit."

How often will you tow? That should be the deciding factor.

Full-timing: Get the bigger truck, F350 SRW min
25 times a year: might be worth upgrading
12 times a year: make the numbers work (most rvers land here!)
1-6 times a year: should have rented a trailer

Last edited by jcb206; 07-29-2017 at 01:20 PM.
Old 07-29-2017, 02:10 PM
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I'm going to get flamed but I just upgraded to a 3/4 because of the same type of situation. It's a hard pill to swallow but you can do it if you give up the fancy gadgets. A base model 3/4 is about the same price and you can do an even trade.

The reason you see most people towing trailers larger is because they are marketed this way. Plain and simple. The manufactures don't market the 3/4 trucks like they should. It's too bad because it costs us consumer more in the long run.

I switched from an F150 to a ram 2500 CTD and it has made a world of difference. I feel much safer that I did in my F150. With my family in the truck that's my primary concern. Period.
Old 07-29-2017, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Nighthawk87
I'm going to get flamed but I just upgraded to a 3/4 because of the same type of situation. It's a hard pill to swallow but you can do it if you give up the fancy gadgets. A base model 3/4 is about the same price and you can do an even trade.

The reason you see most people towing trailers larger is because they are marketed this way. Plain and simple. The manufactures don't market the 3/4 trucks like they should. It's too bad because it costs us consumer more in the long run.

I switched from an F150 to a ram 2500 CTD and it has made a world of difference. I feel much safer that I did in my F150. With my family in the truck that's my primary concern. Period.
No flaming for safety.
Old 07-29-2017, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jcb206
No flaming for safety.

Only for buying a d D D Dudge.
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Old 09-11-2017, 04:43 AM
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your fine. hook it up and tow it
Old 09-11-2017, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by jcb206
The trailer is 7500 dry or wet? What's the make and model?...
I'm still interested in the answer to the question above.

If the trailer is 7500 GVW, it's probably weighing in close to 5500-6000 dry. As others have said, load it light and it will keep the weight down.

For reference, my trailer is a 24' model that is 29' overall. The GVW is 7500; however, there is a sticker in the entry doorjamb (of the trailer) showing it's true dry weight at 6008 pounds. Once the batteries, propane, 7 gallons of water (yes I measure) and gear are added, I am just over 7000 pounds.

My point is, there is a huge difference between the manufacturer's listed weight and the actual, loaded weight of your trailer.

Please let us know the make/model.
Old 09-12-2017, 01:05 AM
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FWIW. I'm pulling a trailer that is GVW of 7642 actual weight 6950. Truck weight is 6000, 6950 with trailer attached and WD active. I am under all of my weight limits. Truck is totally stock and pretty loaded as far as goodies go.
I pull with a ProPride hitch. Rig handles very well.
Old 09-12-2017, 01:27 AM
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Originally Posted by SailorSam20500
FWIW. I'm pulling a trailer that is GVW of 7642 actual weight 6950. Truck weight is 6000, 6950 with trailer attached and WD active. I am under all of my weight limits. Truck is totally stock and pretty loaded as far as goodies go.
I pull with a ProPride hitch. Rig handles very well.
Your rear GAWR and payload rating?

On my truck...I can meet all weight requirements with a 7600 lb trailer except my rear axle. I can only pull a 5000 lb trailer because of my rear axle. lol



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