z_zk_z

1st you need tow package 53A or 53C in order to tow above 5,000 LBs (read the 2018 tow guide). Ford also recommends using a WDH when towing above 5,000 Lbs. You are mixing how much a truck can tow (53A or 53C) with WDH (which simply takes the weight off the hitch and distributes it to the truck and trailer axles). You purchase a WDH from Amazon or places that sell trailers. To answer your question, if you can tow 10K without a WDH, the answer is yes (but not recommended) as long as your truck is rated to tow 10,000 (which means, you really need 53A or 53C and the right engine, etc.)

z_zk_z

inal UPDATE. It was a frustrating day, and to make the story short, I ended up running a wire myself from the positive terminal of the battery to the back of my truck's TBC connector, and I am now able to change the gain (without being connected to a trailer, using my accessory TBC). I can also confirm for sure that there is absolutely no difference between the OEM and the accessory TBCs. They both have the lip. The lip is not visible for factory installed version, and one could insert the TBC from the front. I also learned that people who sell trailers and install the 3rd party TBCs have 7-pin testers to check the lights & the brake function without needing to connect to a trailer. They don't even charge to check your truck's TBC. Here are a few more photos:

AeroCare

Good to know, thanks !

wchain

Does that mean that the TBC is powered all the time now if you dont have a switched relay or something?

I'd be worried about draining the battery.

z_zk_z

For people who don't have Fuse #24 and going to run a 12-volt wire from positive terminal of the battery to the TBC connector, I would recommend a 30 amp fuse (resettable type) close to the battery terminal, and at the minimum having a mechanical switch in-line (in the form of a controlled relay). That way, it will not draw any power when the switch is off (car is off). The simplest would be to run a wire (with a 30 amp fuse) from battery to TBC connector, however that would be on all the time, and I don't know how much power the TBC draws. I am presently running my own wire and will post several photos in a few days.

z_zk_z

I have a relay that requires 12volts/150milliamps to function (i.e., close its 30Amp rated contacts). I am trying to locate a connector/harness which is not energized when engine is off (close to driver side of steering column, or even in the engine compartment), and connect my relay’s control wire to it. Can you please help me? A photo/diagram would really help.

Another user posted the following photo for his 2018 F-150 STX, however I cannot figure out where that connector is located and I cannot find any “white with orange” wire. Thanks in advance for any help…

RandeeVee

First off thank you to all on this subject. So here is a little update. My 2018 F150 XLT was somewhat assembled in February 2018 in Dearborn. I do not have fuse 24 nor the terminals to install a fuse. I purchased Brake Controller JL3Z-19H332-AA off EBay for $85. Installed in my truck. That was a 15 minute job. Hooked up the laptop. Enabled 720-07-01 and 720-04-01. Hooked up my fluke multimeter to pins 1 and 2 on my trucks trailer connector. Set the gain to 1.0 and had around 2vdc, maxed out gain to 10.0 and read 12vdc on the meter. I suspect mine is working. When the yard dries out I will take the trailer for a haul to be sure.

photoryan

Hey everyone! First post, and I thought it was appropriate here since my issue with the brake controller power led me to this forum.

Same situation as many others here: 2018 STX, all the hookups (7 way, TBC connector under dash, no fuse #24...)
In my case, I have a family camping trip coming up this weekend, and with a 4000 +- lb trailer, I'd rather not take any chances without trailer brakes. That said, after reading THIS ENTIRE THREAD, I just want to make sure of something. I did see a post or two specifically on this, but want to make absolute sure, as my family's safety is somewhat of concern to me.
So, I am trying to approach my local dealer to have this problem addressed (the right way), but I am assuming I won't get any resolution by Thursday of this week. So, I went ahead and made an appointment with a local RV mechanic who said they can do a direct wire from the battery to the TBC (with an inline 30A fuse) to give me power for at least the time it takes to have Ford fix it right. My question is with this whole flash vs non-flash thing. I understand it at a high level, but I am wondering specifically if I will need to have the truck flashed if I am installing a 3rd party TBC (Reese Evn Tow, or something like that). Or is that only for the Ford factory TBC and to use the integrated trailer sway stuff through the computer? I just want to ensure that my trailer brakes will work through my TBC when I push the brake pedal.

On another note, the chart that AeroCare posted (and the link) still leave me a little confused when added with other comments on this thread. I don't believe that I got any type of towing package. I have a STX 4x4 with the 2.7L, and either 3.15 or 3.31 gearing. It came with a 2" hitch receiver, the 7-way and the TBC connection (as well as the pig tail connection in a bag in the glove box.) Does this mean that I still have a max tow rating of 7,700, or am I missing something and I really have a lower tow rating? Or do I have to look up the VIN somewhere to really find out. The dealer didn't make it super clear when I bought the truck.

Thanks!

old_programmer

It is only the Ford integrated controller that needs to be flashed. After market brake controllers function independently of the vehicle's computer system.

The max tow rating in the brochures is a best case scenario. To determine the maximum towing capacity for you truck you will need the numbers from the stickers on the driver's side door pillar. The most common limiting factor is the available payload which you can find on the payload sticker. This number is decreased by the weight of all passengers, cargo, owner added options and the weight of the WDH hitch head. You also need to stay under the gross axle weight ratings, gross vehicle weight rating and gross combined weight ratings. You say you trailer is +4K lbs. Assuming that it is less than 5K lbs you are probably ok weight wise but without the numbers to run this is just an educated guess. Using the rule of thumb that tongue weight is 13% of loaded trailer weight you are in the range for needing a weight distributing hitch.

photoryan

Thanks old_programmer. That's good news about the brake controller. I actually talked to a service manager at my dealer, and although he hasn't heard of this issue and is not immediately willing to "take care of the issue" for me, he is willing to look at the issue to see if he can help with a temporary remedy for my trip this weekend.

I got a little worried when you were talking about the weight ratings/ towing capacity, so I started researching a little more to understand the true capacity of the truck. Let me know if I have this right (or at least close.) So there is a difference of cargo capacity (GVWR) and towing capacity (GCWR), right? Meaning, my doorjam label says not to exceed 1633 lbs, accounting for passengers (475), fuel (150), plus the WDH head, cargo and tongue weight (this gives me 1,000 lbs for those three). But according to the truck manual, the GCRW is 12,700 lbs. So towing capacity is that less the (assumed) max GCWR of 6,600 lbs, resulting in a max trailering weight of 6,100 lbs. Does that look relatively correct, making some assumptions that I don't exceed the cargo capacity and keep to 10-15% of the trailer weight at the tongue?