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1995 F150 XL 4x2 towing capacity

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Old 01-09-2018, 05:51 PM
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Default 1995 F150 XL 4x2 towing capacity

Sorry im new here i just bought a 1995 f150 XL 4x2 5.0 with an automatic transmission i bought because it was what i think is a really good deal 86k original miles(carfax confirmed) plus visually it was clean plus driving it sooo smooth. Well my main question is i cant seem to find any info for towing the truck has a trailer hitch and tranny cooler looms oem i dont haul alot but like having the reassurance that i call haul.....i got a 1969 Camaro with a sbc im thinking it weighs approx 3500 lbs i dont own a trailer persoanlly but i would want to rent one form uhaul if needed can anyone confirm towing capacity axle code reads 17,thanks.
Old 01-09-2018, 06:21 PM
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I can't go back to 95 on Ford's lookup tool, but they have the 96 Owner Guide. The copyright is 1995. My disclaimer is there might be changes for 96, but this might help show you what to look for. starts on pg 216 of the PDF (214 if you look at the printed pg number):

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Fo.../96f12og1e.pdf
Old 01-09-2018, 07:08 PM
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That old F150 isn't rated to tow the car alone (flat-towing); much less, on any trailer heavy enough to support the car. Calculating the max. trailer weight is complicated using the instructions in the owner's manual, but that's the only way to get a usable number. The instructions are the same for '92-96 (& possibly some older), so that link will do it.

The axle code only says it's a 1/2-ton (8.8" solid) axle with open diff & 3.31 gears. The 5250 GVWR & "D" in the 4th position of the VIN say it's a VERY-light-duty truck. Decode the rest of that VC label using the caption of this diagram:


https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/72354 (for phone apps)

Last edited by Steve83; 01-10-2018 at 11:45 AM. Reason: corrected RAR
Old 01-09-2018, 07:39 PM
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Interesting Steve, my references say Axle code 17 is for a 3.31 open differential, https://www.f150forum.com/f10/94-axle-decoder-76327/ and https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles...le-code-chart/.

RCSB..won't legally be able to tow much...
Old 01-09-2018, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by don4331
Interesting Steve, my references say Axle code 17 is for a 3.31 open differential, https://www.f150forum.com/f10/94-axle-decoder-76327/ and https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles...le-code-chart/.

RCSB..won't legally be able to tow much...
So far its all bad news man i really thought i could haul the car, so what do i need to do just switch the differential or make it a posi with different gears or just sell the truck what are my options here?
Old 01-09-2018, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by elaml123
So far its all bad news man i really thought i could haul the car, so what do i need to do just switch the differential or make it a posi with different gears or just sell the truck what are my options here?

That pickup is 23 years old. Almost an antique. If you like it, then don't work it hard by trying to tow more than a rowboat.


My docs don't go back earlier than '97. For '97 F-150, the old 5.0L engines were put out to pasture and replaced by the 4.6L 2V. (the 1995 5.0L engine was not even kin to the 2011-up Ford 5.0L engine.)


If your 5.0L engine is at least as powerful as the newer 4.6L 2V, and if your axle decodes to at least 3.55 ratio, then your GCWR is at least 11,000 pounds and your tow rating is at least 6,100 pounds. So in that case, you could probably tow a car on a trailer that grosses less than 5,000 pounds - provided you didn't haul anything in the F-150 except your skinny butt. If your axle ratio is less than 3.55, then Ford says your tow rating is reduced to 2,000 pounds, so even that rowboat might be too much.


Some of the axle decoders I've found indicate your axle may be a 3.25. In that case, you're up the stinky creek without a paddle.
Old 01-10-2018, 12:00 PM
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don4331 was right - my list is wrong for that code. It's 3.31 RAR.

I flog the snot out of my old Bronco, which I love. But I also maintain & repair it frequently.

The smallblock 5.0L is not as powerful as the modular 4.6L. But that wouldn't improve the tow rating, any more than changing the axle gears or changing the diff to a limited slip (Ford didn't use the GM PosiTraction diff). And minimizing the weight in the truck means it has less traction to control a trailer, so that doesn't really increase its towing capacity. The truck is simply too light, and its brakes aren't capable of controlling a heavy trailer. Nothing will change that, short of replacing the axles, suspension, & frame with parts from a heavier truck - which is, of course, ridiculous. You'd simply BUY a heavier truck, and tow with it.

That being said...
I've towed some stupid-heavy things with my Bronco. But I've added about a half ton of weight to it, and I've swapped to slightly-stiffer springs (neither of which actually increases its towing capacity), and I drive MUCH-more-carefully & -slowly when towing heavy. But even that is no guarantee. I've rolled it on the highway towing a car that was loaded incorrectly, and the car weighed FAR less than several other things I towed successfully.

Your best move is to get the truck you need. Not to try to modify the wrong truck.
Old 01-10-2018, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve83
don4331 was right - my list is wrong for that code. It's 3.31 RAR.

I flog the snot out of my old Bronco, which I love. But I also maintain & repair it frequently.

The smallblock 5.0L is not as powerful as the modular 4.6L. But that wouldn't improve the tow rating, any more than changing the axle gears or changing the diff to a limited slip (Ford didn't use the GM PosiTraction diff). And minimizing the weight in the truck means it has less traction to control a trailer, so that doesn't really increase its towing capacity. The truck is simply too light, and its brakes aren't capable of controlling a heavy trailer. Nothing will change that, short of replacing the axles, suspension, & frame with parts from a heavier truck - which is, of course, ridiculous. You'd simply BUY a heavier truck, and tow with it.

That being said...
I've towed some stupid-heavy things with my Bronco. But I've added about a half ton of weight to it, and I've swapped to slightly-stiffer springs (neither of which actually increases its towing capacity), and I drive MUCH-more-carefully & -slowly when towing heavy. But even that is no guarantee. I've rolled it on the highway towing a car that was loaded incorrectly, and the car weighed FAR less than several other things I towed successfully.

Your best move is to get the truck you need. Not to try to modify the wrong truck.
THANKS FOR ALL THE INFO!!
This has bee really helpful i mean i like the look of these trucks and i do need a truck i just thought i may have a good towing truck as well.......
i guess ill have to consider a new truck or an suv that can tow as i am looking at suv(with a budget in mind nothing over 25k) i am a newb at this whole towing/hauling if i were to pick up a truck or suv based on what the car i want to assuming 3500lbs and an approx trailer weight of 2500lbs i would need a vehicle that can tow anything over 7000lbs correct as i wasn looking at a 2011 4runner just making sure before i go out and make a big purchase i dont want a v8 and am thinking of sticking with a v6.
Old 01-10-2018, 02:46 PM
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Smokey:

The '95 5.0 had 185hp/270ftlbs vs the '97 4.6 of 220hp/290ftlbs.
Elaml123:
How far/often are you transporting your Camaro? For a 1 time transit, a U-Haul dolly is much lighter (Only 750lbs); but you would have to undo the driveshaft of your car to avoid transmission damage if you are going any distance.* Even my old Ranger could tow your Camaro in this configuration. Dolly is limited to 3,900lbs, but you are within that and would be under the 4,700lb trailer limit of your truck.

U-haul trailers are built to carry ~5,3k lbs and overbuild as they are a rental; so are heavy >2,2k lbs (3x the dolly). They do have advantage of just being able to drive on/off no matter how far you are going.

Both u-haul dollies and trailer have surge brakes which means you don't need a trailer brake controller, just 4 pin connector.

Adding capacity to your truck isn't as easy swapping gears (your truck might actually have a 9" in it, which is super easy to change ratios in by just using a spare pumpkin), you would need stronger springs, better tires (assuming you are driving on the OEM P series 235/75R15s; you would want LT), more power (351 or alternate). Everything except the gear change actually reduces your legal limit as it makes your truck heavier.

*I use a pair of ramps, a hydraulic jack and tactical use of hills to get under cars to undo the driveshaft. Note: I usually leave driveshaft in transmission to avoid oil coming out. One can usually find something to tie driveshaft up to with a shoe lace or equivalent.
Old 01-10-2018, 02:48 PM
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Duplicate

Last edited by don4331; 01-10-2018 at 02:51 PM. Reason: Duplicate


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