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You'll get it, sometimes it's hard to dial them in. I remember helping my brother on his last Pro Street, back and forth, back and forth. Took the better part of the day, seemed every time an adjustment was made, we'd have to wait for the other guys to get out of the way. At least you're not trying to do it at the track.
Keep in mind your lifting block under the leaf spring makes axle wrap worse due to the pivoting leverage it induces. One of the first things I did on my Whipple Raptor back in the day was to swap out to Deaver +2 leaf springs that eliminated the block. Made a world of difference.
So your results will vary from standard traction bar installs on a "muscle car" and require more tweaking.
Keep in mind your lifting block under the leaf spring makes axle wrap worse due to the pivoting leverage it induces. One of the first things I did on my Whipple Raptor back in the day was to swap out to Deaver +2 leaf springs that eliminated the block. Made a world of difference.
So your results will vary from standard traction bar installs on a "muscle car" and require more tweaking.
Thanks, I still have about a 1-1/4" rake.. I was thinking about pulling the block out completely. Might give that a try.
Finished the floor console and shift conversion today. It really seems like a different truck now. Many thanks to Firerunner and DeeMiniioon on their documentation in their thread.
While it was torn down I threw in some Dynamat.
Raptor carbon fiber shifter and sync 3 cubby door.
Impeccable as always. That really looks good in an RC. I wanted that in my '12, but wasn't to be. I sure do like it in this '17, can't see having another truck without it. Very comfy armrest, and your hand just naturally goes on the shifter.
Good job Mike!
Impeccable as always. That really looks good in an RC. I wanted that in my '12, but wasn't to be. I sure do like it in this '17, can't see having another truck without it. Very comfy armrest, and your hand just naturally goes on the shifter.
Good job Mike!
Thank you!...So far I really like it. Seems so much sportier. I've been accumulating parts for it from before I took delivery of the truck. About 90% of the parts are new. I bought a used console from a salvage yard that was black. I tried to paint it camel and it was an EPIC FAIL, so I bought a new bare console and used some of the parts from the salvage like the wire harness. The shifter was different because it was out of a 6 speed auto. It has one more stop then the 10 speed so that is new also. I was able too still used a few parts from it like the wire harness, It had to modified.
I might see about getting a boot with beige stitching. The gray stitching sort of bugs me, but doesn't look all that bad and goes along with the carbon fiber.
You put some work in it for sure. I tried to wrap that sliding cubby door with some CF, horrible job, I didn't have enough room to work. Ya, I'm still working on doing that stuff. Is there a way to get some easier access to it, or even just take it out?
You put some work in it for sure. I tried to wrap that sliding cubby door with some CF, horrible job, I didn't have enough room to work. Ya, I'm still working on doing that stuff. Is there a way to get some easier access to it, or even just take it out?
It's not really that hard, just scary as hell because you're prying on plastic parts. The bezel around the shifter has to come off, start at the rear and work forward with the console lid up. Getting it lose from the dash is the hardest part, I had to put the truck in drive to get on and off. The only reason I needed to pull it off was I forget to connect the wire for the "PRNDM" light.
Then its just two torque screws to remove the cubby door sliding it back. There is switch front of the cubby door that snaps in place to get the whole thing out.
09-13-2018, 08:38 PM
