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Oh, forgot to post here. I figured out the issue. The bypass is bad. I can leave my key in the ignition in Off and it fires up just fine.
The dealership wants me to bring it in before they'll tell me if the bypass can be reprogrammed to the truck (it's a ford OEM bypass that has a chip in it vs a key bypass). The local remote start place told me to take it to the dealership since it's OEM, or bring it in to get the entire shebang replaced.
Oh well. In other news, all my switches now glow properly when being used (they were never grounded for the LEDs). I'm also going to be wiring up the bed lights that I have on the rails and across the back of the tonneau, in the next couple of days.
If you have 2 working keys you can just program the bypass yourself. If it's dead (fine wires can be damaged) then you can replace it for about $40 online then program it (as long as you have 2 working keys).
If you have 2 working keys you can just program the bypass yourself. If it's dead (fine wires can be damaged) then you can replace it for about $40 online then program it (as long as you have 2 working keys).
In truck, door closed.
Put in first key, turn to run, but don't start the truck.
Wait about 3 seconds.
Take key out, put in 2nd key, turn to run, but don't start truck.
Wait about 3 seconds.
Take key out, use remote start to start truck.
In truck, door closed.
Put in first key, turn to run, but don't start the truck.
Wait about 3 seconds.
Take key out, put in 2nd key, turn to run, but don't start truck.
Wait about 3 seconds.
Take key out, use remote start to start truck.
Yes. They don't work when trying to program the solid state Ford bypass box, there's not a key inside of it.
To expand: It recognizes both keys however when you try to remote start it, instead of it going solid again like it did for the first two keys, the security light blinks a couple times and that's it. The bypass never gets programmed.
I'm just going to get a nice Avital or CompuStar two way. It ain't worth my frustration anymore. Plus the range on it is bollocks.
After a lot of planning, I finally ran the power for the lighting today. I know at some point in the future I'm going to need to silicone the light strips to the aluminum strips in the bed, but for now they've stuck through heat and cold so I'll wait until they come off before I go do that.
I tapped off Fuse #20, adding a 7.5a fuse for the bed lighting. I ran a positive and a ground wire back to the bed through the cable bundle area under the door sill plates, using split loom to protect it, up behind the rear seat, out the vent in the back of the cab and through the plug in the bed (I also drilled through the bedliner).
I siliconed both the plug side and the bed liner side (you can see it still curing). All the lights are connected using easy-off connectors that can be removed in the event I want to use other lighting back there, or if I need to replace pieces of the strip.
I added the switch on the passenger side because I wanted it out of the way, across from my aux backup lights switch, and able to be seen if it was lit so I wouldn't forget they were on (they're on a constant hot, but it would take weeks for them to drain the battery on their own).
Ran from the cab to the bed through the back of the cab
Yes. They don't work when trying to program the solid state Ford bypass box, there's not a key inside of it.
To expand: It recognizes both keys however when you try to remote start it, instead of it going solid again like it did for the first two keys, the security light blinks a couple times and that's it. The bypass never gets programmed.
I'm just going to get a nice Avital or CompuStar two way. It ain't worth my frustration anymore. Plus the range on it is bollocks.
Is it a new bypass or not? The bypass is supposed to be programmed in the same way as a key. The ring that goes around the key cylinder works the same as the chip in the key (by what I've read anyway).
If you're getting rid of your bypass, can I have it?
11-10-2016, 01:27 AM
