MustangAndy

'parently there be an image cap per post....




Wait. Andy you said that there are 6x9's in the rear doors.
Yes, I did.

That's impossible. They would never fit.
For the average person no. But for someone willing to do some cutting and woodworking they fit just fine.











Rev1 spacers vs. Rev2 ring

MustangAndy

Started with a box from SuperCrewSound.com and a pair of Hertz Energy D300.5 subs. Advertised depth of the subs themselves and the box were extremely close and in the end subs were too deep for the box. So i made spacer rings for the box then had to lift the box itself and the lower rear seat ~1". Everything made from MDF and wrapped in black carpet.

MustangAndy

Some more pictures from the audio build. I need to do some finalizing wire cleanup, check the driver rear speaker, and Dynamat the front doors.


The Maestro RR - returned the functionality of my steering wheel controls and makes the small SYNC screen at the top of the stack display audio information instead of just saying "Built Ford Tough".








New Pioneer 2440NEX headunit. Picture taken before the Maestro went in which shows How the SYNC screen was stuck on that single message






Rear doors are easy to run new speaker wire. Used 14/2 throughout the truck






One of the rear doors where I Dynamatted certain spots.






Area behind the rear seat. This is where I need to clean up the wiring. Everything fits fine and I trimmed the carpet panel to fit around the components.







Rebuilding the SYNC panel to work with the new Pioneer headunit. Pulled the factory USB cable back and soldered a different head on. For the 1/8" jack I trimmed the plastic then soldered a cable on that I cut in half after toning out the colors so that tip, ring, and shield corresponded to the correct channels.




Attachment 567336

Attachment 565843

MustangAndy

I just have a thing for adding more gauges to my vehicles. In this case I used Glowshift this time instead of my usual standby of AutoMeter. Top is volts, middle is trans temp, and bottom is true oil pressure instead of the usual idiot gauge ford uses of "No, OK, and BAD". So far I've had zero problems with the gauges themselves - the pillar is a different story. Top doesn't really fit that well with the headliner and the front edge honestly looks like it warped in the sun. Gonna buy the Autometer pillar eventually, swap it in and see if it works better.

MustangAndy

I originally installed cheap LED bulbs into the factory fog light housings. Wasn't impressed and then they both began to flicker badly. Custom mounted a different set of housings (Essentially Heep Wrangler headlights) into the factory pods and and simply plugged them in. The halos are tapped into the parking lights.

andrewdod

Nice upgrade that's very different!

M0RRIS

MustangAndy

The Glowshift gauges I bought are the "7-color" Clear Series. I run them on the white setting to kinda match the dash. They dim at night when I turn the parking lights on. There is a tinted version of the same gauges which may be darker at night - I'm not sure. As for sending unit I went with (once again) Glowshift and bought their sandwich adapter. Simple aluminum plate that fits between the oil filter and the block. Has four ports for sensors so no need to drill holes or splice existing wire.






4-14-19: Took the truck to the track Sunday (Island Dragway in Great Meadows, NJ) to get a baseline time. Have a bunch of speed parts and want to see how much they affect the time. It looks like the truck doesn't like powerbraking and just prefers to slam it off the line as the truck got slower the more I fed it at the line. Best pass was the first one.

M0RRIS

Thanks. Do you have a link to the sandwich unit.

MustangAndy

https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/oil-...wich-adapters/

Pretty sure it's the M22x1.5 version if I remember correctly - double check before purchase.



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