I thought so too, I just wanted someone else's opinion before I buy a new one, and this time I am gonna get a motorcraft vs the REMY or whatever brand that it was

 

 

Well they're finally in and working!!
I am not very happy with the Morimoto harness though, it must have taken me over two hours of faffing around with that stupid driver's side run so it would actually reach the headlight connector!

The passenger side mounting location, i easily drilled a hole and found a nut and bolt to mount it in that section. Then stupidly realised that i should have just pulled the wiring clip that was right next to it and used that clip to mount it on






This is the driver's side plug pulled as far as it would go when routed over the top of the radiator in the most direct route possible. The plug needs to be at least where my thumb is, and then a few inches further back. This run should be minimum 6 inches longer.




Fitted in the final location, i had to unbolt the radiator support bolt that you can see in the square hole directly above the harness/relay - this allowed me to pass the wire/plug on the other side of the ~1.5" diameter support and it was enough to give me the extra length i needed on the driver's side.









I'm very happy with the look of these lights as well as the solid cut-off line you can see above, haven't driven it yet but it's not like the factory lights are an unknown.
The harness issue really annoyed me, so much wasted time trying to find out how to route the wire and even after all the messing, it's still borderline tight once mounted in place, they only needed another 6 inches for it to work more comfortably.
I'm also uncertain how well the wiring will hold up, as the shrink wrap and wire sheathing is essentially loose on the wires, i might see if i can put a hairdryer on some of it, but i was so pissed at it all when i fitted it that i didn't do it when it was all exposed and easy to get at. We'll see how it lasts, if i have to pull the lights to do this, i'll use some dielectric grease in the connectors too.

All in all, i'm lucky to get these perfect condition units for the price i did, that's not something that happens to me, so thank you @FerdinandF150 for letting me know about the CL ad.

 

All the hard work (that could have been avoided if they didnt skimp on the wire) paid off. They look good!

Haven't had as much luck finding a black pair. Trying to get them for $500 is tough. Your $350 was spent well!

 

Yeah, it's more what they're worth IMO, but a great deal nonetheless.

 

Agreed. I can get retrofits made using my existing halogens for $850 and they would have better output so the people asking $600 for 1 side - insane. New they are $550 per side, just doesn't make sense.

Maybe I'll luck out a 2nd time though.

 

Tonight, i remembered that my window switches rattle like buggery when going over bumps in the road, or, constantly on forestry roads.

I pulled the switch bank out, which is pretty sketchy, it felt like i was going to damage trim and/or break the whole thing getting it out (it lifts from the back and the front (straight up))




From there, it's 4 very easy clips with a flat blade screwdriver or trim tool to eject the switches themselves from the frame. These were disgusting and needed cleaning whilst they were out.





The movement in the frame was lateral, you could hold any of the switches and move them left and right very easily, easiest route was just to pad the frame out a little, some sticky pads worked perfectly here, stopping all lateral movement when mounted in the frame.








I did attempt to try and lubricate the plastic rockers on the front window switches, they're a little sticky in that they require more force to start moving, than they do to to keep moving and onto the 'Auto' part of the switch, however i couldn't get the grease in far enough, or see how it might come apart to access where the plastic on plastic contact might be.

It also still amazes me how far round the side of the truck that the headlights appear, guess that explains why Ford put a side facing "F150" in the HID headlight units.

 

I managed to determine the occasional and slight IWE noise i get at low speed, is predominantly when i turn slightly right, so trying to find which vacuum hose has a leak in it that opens up when i turn the wheel.

I also ordered a "like new" switch bank for $20 to get smoother operation.

 

Maxx I dont mean to hijack your thread, but have you done the fuse 27 relocation kit? It went out on me and there is a TSB on it and is a ticking time bomb thats bound to fry the fuse at some point and leave you in a crank but no start scenario.

 

I discovered the person who owned my truck before me liked PB&J sandwiches when I cleaned my switches. I took the door panel off and did a deep clean.