[F2C]MaDMaXX has asked me to share my my experience with dropping the transmission pan and changing out the filter/fluid. For the record this is not a full flush of the system just a pan drain and fill. And I won't be going into every specific detail but i'll cover the basics.

For me I am on a 2" level with bigger tires so I didn't bother with jacking the truck up but you may need to on yours to access everything. Once you have it lifted and secure and you're able to comfortably and safely reach everything we can get started.

We will begin with the tools required for the job as well as some tools that aren't required but just make the process go a little quicker.
1. Transmission pan gasket. I used a FEL-PRO metal gasket to replace mine even though they state it's reusable. Part number for that was TOS18753
2. Automatic Transmission Filter. I went with a brand called Power Torque and the part number for that was FK-437 and it has a 1" pickup tube.
3. Automatic Transmission Fluid. I went with Motorcraft Mercon LV and bought 8 quarts to be on the safe side. Again this is not a full flush which I believe would be 13.1? I drained 5.5 Quarts from my pan and put 5.5 quarts back in. There is a dipstick on the pan you will use to fill but it helps to know how much came out.
4. Some sort of fluid transfer pump. I used two different ones for mine. One was a basic transfer pump from the parts store and the other was one of the hand pumps that screw onto quart and gallon jugs also from the local parts store. I also bought some slightly softer clear tubing so I could see the fluid as it came out just as a visual perk.
5. Ratcheting wrench. You can use 1/4" or 3/8" drive whichever you have I used a 3/8".
6. 3" extension for the ratchet that you chose.
7. 8mm Socket for the setup you're using.
8. Universal Joint or "swivel" attachment.
9. Some kind of pry tool. Doesn't have to be much, I used a small flat head screw driver. This is to help separate the pan from the transmission in case it's slightly stuck to the gasket.
10. A magnetic tray of some kind so you can keep all the bolts together.
11. A 19mm open ended wrench for the fill plug/dipstick.
12. A torque wrench for re-installation. Preferably a 3/8" drive so you can use the same 8mm
And lastly the optional tool. I used a 1/4" impact driver to pull the bolts out quicker. DO NOT USE THIS TO PUT THE BOLTS BACK IN! YOU WILL STRIP THEM IN THE ALUMINIUM!!

So the best way to go about this is to get under the truck on the passenger side and locate the tall 19mm plug. Locate the pan and then look above it on the passenger side towards the motor. It's hard to miss. Remove this plug and pull out the plastic dipstick and put them somewhere safe and clean. Next take the tube from your transfer pump and get it down into the pan so you can start removing fluid into a drain pan. Realistically you should only need to remove two or three quarts but if you want to pump more out go ahead.

Once you're satisfied with that part you can remove the bolts for the pan using your 8mm socket and ratchet. Now for this part I got the hard to reach ones by the engine side first since the exhaust runs under them. This is where the swivel attachment comes in. Once those are removed you can start removing the rest. For me I left one in on each long side of the pan but backed them out a few threads so this will ensure that the pan does not fall down unexpectedly. It also helps if you do this closer to the rear of the pan so the front of the pan can come down and start draining any left over fluid.

Once the fluid is drained you can remove the last of the bolts and then lower the pan down. I had to turn mine sideways just a bit to remove it but there's plenty of room. With the pan out drain the filter and pan into your catch container so you can measure how much was removed for later and also check for any metal chunks or excessive shavings. After that make sure you give the pan a good cleaning including the magnet and mating surface. The magnet will likely have some metal shavings on it but that's pretty normal as long as it isn't a lot. Now it's time to grab the new filter and gasket and reinstall!

Lay your filter in the pan and the gasket on top and slide it back under the truck. The filter tube with the O-ring on it will slide into the valve body hole on the rear passenger side of the transmission. Firmly press it in and then slowly let it hang as the weight will tilt it slightly but don't worry the pan will hold it in place. With the filter in place put your pan back up and start 3-4 bolts. I like to get close to the corners so I know the gasket is lined up properly as well. Next go ahead and throw in the remaining bolts by hand and hand tighten them. Now in a crisscross pattern tighten them to 106 in-lbs or 12nm MAKE SURE IT'S INCH POUNDS!!!! I start in the middle of the long sides and the alternate side to side working out to the ends. Once this is done you're ready to refill!

To refill the trans I bought a hand pump that screws right onto the quart bottles. Now I measured 5.5 quarts when I drained mine so I started by putting 5 in and checking the dipstick. The dipstick will have two sections labeled A and B. You want to cold fill it to the center of these two which for me was exactly 5.5 quarts. You also want to make sure your truck is level when checking fluids so if you have the front end jacked up 10" you will need to readjust this now. Once you are satisfied with the level put the truck back on the ground and start it. Let it run for a minute and then slowly shift from gear to gear keeping your foot on the brake waiting a few seconds between shifts. This will help the fluid move through everything. If you want you can also wait until the trans is at running temp and recheck your dipstick but with measuring everything I wasn't concerned about being overfull. Now you're ready for the test drive!

Below are some pictures of everything I used. If anyone wants more detailed pics let me know and I can get under the truck and take some. I hope this helps someone though! Also if you're doing this go ahead and do your transfer case and front and rear diff as well!

 

This mirrored my experience when I did my lead frame. I used a Motorcraft filter ($18 on RockAuto) and the same Fel-Pro pan gasket.

Because I pulled the valve body and thermostat, I had to put about 8 quarts back into it, which took a loooong time with the little bottle-top pump. My arms and wrists were SORE the next day.

 

I had just got done doing both differentials and the transfer case when I did the transmission and the gear lube is awful! I was so worn out that night haha.

 

Thanks for writing that up, @SHIFT_Lock i appreciate it.

As i said in another thread, i'm in two minds to whether i go deeper and remove the valve body to replace the lead frame as @Laminar did.... It's more and messier work, but does come with the advantage of draining all the fluid including the cooler, as you remove the thermostat as part of the process.
I think i'll probably get another two jack stands, i only have two suitable ones right now that i think i put in a post earlier in this thread, but your extra 2 inches on the front can make a huge difference to working under there. I'll also have to look through my fluid pump stuff, i swear i've got a better transfer type pump, but don't recall using it for new fluid, only for extracting.

Of course, you can't seem to buy the leadframe anywhere right now except ebay, and i've seen at least two people with faulty units once it was all assembled... i love lotteries

 

 

There is a set of HID headlights in chrome for sale on CL not too far. I've been checking periodically for a black set. They want $350. Ad lacks a lot of detail, like condition of tabs, but just thought I'd throw it out there.

 

Thanks, been thinking about these again, i think there is a bunch of stuff to get and retrofit on the '11 and '12 models, i don't know where/how the harnesses connect etc. I'll have a look, but CL ads that lack useful info are usually a bust

 

Agreed, on occasion those types of sellers will be accommodating via text. I'd definitely want more photos and want to roll up with the harness you need to convert halogen to HID installed/in place and my lights out so you can pop one in to test. From my research the harness is all you need.

 

Nice, that's useful info, thanks - and i found the ad, it's right near me, so i messaged it it includes anything other than the housings.

 

I'd be curious to know about the bulbs they installed and the cost to replace if they are cheap or inferior to OEM. Also the condition of the ballast's.