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I hate my column shifter and I would kill to have a shifter in my console. Can you give me a list of part #s that I would need to pull this project off? What was the reason you changed the dash?
When I get off of work this afternoon I'll go into more detail about what you need.
The reason I changed my dash really had nothing to do with the shifter other than the fact that I was pulling the dash anyway so it was a good time to swap it. I prefer the look of the leather stitched dash over the hard plastic that came in the XLT.
Thank you - I bought the dash on fordparts.com from a dealer in Cary, NC and it was around $680.00 with taxes.
I had to change my original wiring harness to one that was compatible to the wiring for the floor shifter, but after that it was plug and play so FORScan was not needed for that.
While I do like your dash, I actually meant to ask you about the instrument panel.
While I do like your dash, I actually meant to ask you about the instrument panel.
lol..ok I bought the cluster off of car-parts.com
If I remember right it was around 350.00 It plugs right in using the same wiring as your original cluster, but you do have to save your As-Built data from your old cluster then transfer it into the new one. The mileage and hours were corrected by sending it off to carcorrections in Florida
lol..ok I bought the cluster off of car-parts.com
If I remember right it was around 350.00 It plugs right in using the same wiring as your original cluster, but you do have to save your As-Built data from your old cluster then transfer it into the new one. The mileage and hours were corrected by sending it off to carcorrections in Florida
Hmm, I do like that cluster a lot better. What was the cost to send it to FL for the correction? During the send off time, did you just not use the vehicle for a while so hours / miles didnt go up after you told them what it should be?
It was 120.00 plus shipping to get it programmed.
what I did was send him the mileage far enough ahead that I could still drive and have it right when it came back. For example if you normally drive 150 miles a week, have it programmed 250 -300 miles ahead - that way when it comes back you can match the mileage and put it in when they are the same.
He needs a buffer of 75 or so miles so keep that in mind also.
@Ecoboost Oz, I see on your profile that your truck is a 2016 - unfortunately that means the harness I used will not work for your truck.
Assuming that you currently have a console, to get started you will need to purchase a console shifter & cable, a new surround that the shifter boot connects to, and a new main wiring harness as well as a new console wiring harness.
The new console harness is needed because ford doesn't populate the harnesses of the non-shifter consoles with the required wiring.
In order to insure that all of the functions still operate in your truck after the conversion it is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you get a main harness from the Same Year truck With the same options as yours.
The biggest reason for this is that the connector for the console changed between 2015 & 2016, and if they changed that connector there is really no telling what else changed between the production year.
I searched the internet for used trucks (especially Sport versions since they are console shift automatically) then using a piece of software flsdiver created called As Built hacker (you can download it from his thread - https://www.f150forum.com/f118/asbui...ftware-370364/
I compared the possible matches to my own VIN# using the ETIS COMPARE tab until I found a truck that was equipped identical to my own. Once I found the donor truck that I felt comfortable with I ordered the Main harness & Console harness using its VIN#
Some Part# I have used:
Main Wiring Harness - Part#: FL3Z-14401-U (correct FOR MY TRUCK)
Console Wiring Harness - Part#: FL3Z-14A318-F
Steering Wheel Shroud - Part#: FL3Z-3530-BD
I don't have numbers for the shifter, shifter boot, cable, & shifter panel because I bought them used from the sales section
There are square holes in the console where the shifter mounts, you will need to buy 4 bolts and 4 nut clips to bolt the shifter in place
the part numbers I have used for those are:
Bolt - Part #: W711685S900
Nut - Part #: W717086S439 (these are not the correct nuts that go in the console but once they spread open they will work)
If anyone decides to tackle this, let me know and I will help in anyway that I can..
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Last edited by ymeski56; 05-20-2017 at 01:12 PM.
Reason: Added part #'s
Firerunner, thanks for the link! A couple of questions:
I have the jump seat, but also have a complete Lariat console with shifter and console wiring harness. Does the console shifter cable go thru the same hole in the floor as the column shifter cable, or do I have to open up another hole?
Do I have to totally remove everything in the dash to replace the main wiring harness, or can I get by with only removing some things (like the radio and climate controls)?
05-03-2017, 10:53 AM
