TKat13

I absolutely love it, the 10 speed auto is the champion here, pairing that with the 2.7 is brilliant. Great fuel mileage, average 21mpg over the first 1600 miles, that is where I am now. I have seen 25 but I was crazy light on the gas and coasted a good amount. However, it is no 5.0 so I do not want to mislead anyone, but if I had to re-think the purchase, I would still buy the 2.7. Its my daily, when I want to go fast I have a Mach1 boosted for that.

Saying that, it is much better driving than my older F-150 that had a 4.6. That thing was gutless. The 2.7 has great passing ability and just cruises on the highway at 80, hard to keep it under the speed limit as it just does not seem to be working hard at all.

FWIW, we have a 2016 GT Mustang and it does have more pep, but it is tuned with some bolt-ons. Someday I will have the 2.7 tuned as well. My only gripe is the delay in the throttle, but that is solved by the tune. I had the same complaint on the 2016 GT until it was tuned.

TKat13

Ran the power wire through the driver's side grommet, used the factory hole as it was big enough to accommodate the 4 Gauge wire. I need to trim the zip tie, oops.



Kicker Fuse Block



Ran the wire on the back side of the firewall; used wire loop and used a metric nut, held in place on the factory stud. The driver's side stud just used the push pin to hold it in place.

Tex045

Awesome thanks! Yea I LOVE the sound of my 5.0 coupled with a Roush exhaust but as much driving as I do during the week, that fuel economy of the 2.7/10spd definitely has me thinking about making the switch.

TKat13

Decided the truck needed some changes; with this in mind, I wanted to lift the truck but at the same time I want the truck to drive like a truck and not like a 70s Cadillac. In other words for you young guns, truck is to soft; when I need to brake quickly the front just dives and when I take corners the lean is unbearable. I know it is a truck but it is to soft for even a truck.
Requirements:
1. Lift but keep the proper axle angles - which meant 6" lift. (my opinion, not looking for an argument here)
2. Better handling even with a lift
3. 35" tires, because I want to, no justification here; but I want a quiet ride.
4. I MUST DO THE INSTALL... I am that guy. I love doing this stuff, I am a nerd by day and a grease monkey by night. ( My toy is an '04 Mach 1, stroked, 76mm turbo, did the entire build in may garage) Given my toy, I figured I could pull this off, nothing is stock on my Mach, so how hard could it really be?

So, I went to 4WheelParts in Coppell, Tx and this is me leaving the parking lot...


Leaving 4WheelParts with a bed full of parts...



Got caught unloading the parts into the house... oops.

TKat13

My wife is pretty awesome, she had no issues with me storing my parts in the front living room until I had time to install them...



Rear Shocks


Front Struts for 4-6" lifts.
The parts I decided to purchase for those interested.
1. 6" Pro-Comp Stage 1 lift kit
2. Fox Rear Shocks Part# 980-02-034
3. Fox Front Struts Part # 883-06-114 2.5 Series
4. ProComp 20x9 Series 39 wheels Part# PXA5139-2936
5. Toyo 35x12.5 Open Country R/Ts
6. 1/2" Shock spacers, needed for the rear shocks, they come with 3/8" spacers but the uppers need 1/2 for those Fox Shocks.

TKat13

I did the entire install with two jack stands, 2 floor jacks and 1 transmission jacks and normal car guy tools. I used a small floor jack for ease of maneuvering control arms, etc and the transmission jack was used removing the front diff. Other than that, a cutting wheel, black paint and some hand tools, impact etc.

I had an extra set of hands for the diff removal, otherwise my buddy was taking the pictures, I enjoy turning wrenches and he does not so it works out perfectly.

I should start by saying the instructions that ProComp provides with the 6" lift is very good, take your time and read them, then do the work step by step. Everything is pretty much covered.
The install took me 2.5 days, this was ONLY because I have never worked on a 4x4 truck and I took my time.

Disassembly starts, jack stands, not car lift here fellows...



After dissasembly, the lower driverside control arm mount has to be cut out to make room for the lowered diff.

This pictures shows the diff dropped and where I cut the from off... the ONLY scary part of the install.



Comparison of the knuckles.

TKat13

After removing everything and cutting the frame... I grinded the cut area smooth and painted the bare metal with caliper black paint. As you can see in the picture, you have to drop pretty much all the suspension. In this pic the rear sub frame is installed, the drop brackets for the diff is installed and the diff put back in place.



Installed the front cross member and then isntalled the lower control arm. BTW, all bolts are left loose at this point.


Another diff shot with the drop brackets.


Bracket that connects the rear cross member to the frame. Had to drill the upper bolt holes and painted those holes.


Lower struts bolted in place


Got busy and forgot to take pictures, but installed the front struts and knuckes, etc.

TKat13

Dust shield installed


Brakes installed and all lines re-routed

TKat13

Brake Line drop brackets


Front wheels installed, my trusty old blue floor jack met its limits, had 1" to spare... yikes.

TKat13

The rear was super easy, took maybe 2 hours tops. Jacked up the back, put the jack stands in and did one side at a time. Unbolt the U-bolts, remove shock, remove factory block, install new block, install new shock and repeat on the other side. Then install the driveshaft spacer.




A little high in the front. At this point the truck will be sent to 4WheelParts for an alignment and lower the front struts.