Daily Driver Prerunner NF155
10-23-2012, 10:40 PM
#41
I dont know what you mean by the "back" of the can? are you referring to how it is mounted to the frame or just the can itself?
The bumpstops were originally 2.5x4" stroke. I had them shortened to a 2" stroke. Thats just the setup that will work best for my truck. If I ran them at the full 4" it would be too much. HOWEVER, I might consider going to 3" after testing it through the rough stuff.
I got her back from my guy who had his shop remove the dash.... my oh my how relieved I am about that not being my responsibility to put back in. Anyways, I should be starting on the cage this weekend. (and finishing that passenger side bump first)
thanks again for replies!
-Morgan Clarke
10-27-2012, 02:23 PM
#44
Deep Wedgewood
10-29-2012, 10:02 AM
#45
Wow! Great Job. Looks like you have a great plan in place. Sometimes I wish my truck looked like yours. Since it does not, I built a pre-runner Buggy that seats 5. Still a bunch more work needs to be done to it.
10-30-2012, 10:02 PM
#46
sounds fun.. what chassis are you running and what transaxle/gearbox/engine??
10-30-2012, 10:20 PM
#47
seemed like this last weekend was a little warmer than expected. (or maybe I just need to get used to crawling in and out of the truck over 50 times a day)
first things first:
If you are going to effectively fabricate a roll cage in a truck and tie it in to the body, you NEED to put in some sort of solid body mounts.(or close to solid)
I used billet "pucks" of aluminum cut to size and bored out.
first things first:
If you are going to effectively fabricate a roll cage in a truck and tie it in to the body, you NEED to put in some sort of solid body mounts.(or close to solid)
I used billet "pucks" of aluminum cut to size and bored out.
10-30-2012, 11:37 PM
#48
The headliner is the #1 thing that will need to be custom upholstered when everything is buttoned up inside. I want to keep the pillar trim/moldings and also be able to use the stock seatbelts. I will build a bolt in crossbar that goes behind the front seats to mount harnesses when going out to the desert.
The first tube I put in is def. the hardest one. I wanted a solid one piece "hoop" to go up the B pillars and over the middle. The whole main structure when complete will need to be able to drop down 6-8" from the roof so it can be welded 360degrees
The first tube I put in is def. the hardest one. I wanted a solid one piece "hoop" to go up the B pillars and over the middle. The whole main structure when complete will need to be able to drop down 6-8" from the roof so it can be welded 360degrees
10-30-2012, 11:40 PM
#49
these are the tubes that connect the cage to the frame.
AND... I got a new tool. This notcher lets you clamp to any part of a tube including the bend and has a huge amount of adjust ability. Pretty excited to put in to use.
AND... I got a new tool. This notcher lets you clamp to any part of a tube including the bend and has a huge amount of adjust ability. Pretty excited to put in to use.
10-30-2012, 11:55 PM
#50
Member
You sir have some big ***** and a ridiculous truck! Im scared to unbuckle the seatbelt to fast because I don't want to break anything and you have completely dismantled yours. But all for a good cause. Bully for you sir. Well done it looks awesome.