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What are your thoughts on the Goodyear tires. How do they compare to the Bridgestones?
Had them for about a year now & absolutely love them! I am an aggressive driver (lol) & they stick really well to the road.
Especially in wet conditions, they provide better traction than the OE Bridgestones did, IMO.
Got a great deal on them through Discount-Tire too! I'll definitely buy them again
I went to Hobby Lobby & purchased a matte black as well as a dark gray Paint (to get the color to match the OE black which is not perfectly black)(does not require much Gray, appx a 1-4 ratio IIRC), some paint containers (which looked like restaurant ketchup's...lol) along with the most important part.... A small ketchup looking paint container with a heavy gauge needle on it. You need that needle point in order to get the paint into the crack between the 2 housing halves. I also made sure the crack was cleaned out as best as I could prior to paint, then afterwards I sealed it in w/a black RTV silicone.
I found the idea & instructions on the Forum, but I cant remember if it was here or FordTruckEnthusists
Thank you
If you have pictures or a write up that would be great. It really finished out the look of the taillights.
Instruction in my words:
I only spent like $20 to do this I went to Hobby Lobby & picked up....
1. a bottle w/an 18 gauge needle tip (most important tool)
2. got a 2 pack of larger bottles to mix paint in (look like restaurant ketchup bottles)
3. large bottle of (non gloss) black acrylic paint
4. small bottle of gray acrylic paint
Lastly, go to Walmart or Auto-Parts & grab a tube of black silicone sealant
I cleaned the area in taillights with rubbing alcohol, mixed approximately 5 parts black to 1 part gray paint, then put into needle bottle & squeezed into crack of taillights... I'll be honest some areas are very difficult & I found it helpful to use paint masking tape, then used a can of compressed air (electronics cleaner) to blow the paint down into where it didn't want to run on its own... Also don't flood it, yes you'll need to go over it a couple times & finally seal it in with the silicone sealant.
Instruction in my words:
I only spent like $20 to do this I went to Hobby Lobby & picked up....
1. a bottle w/an 18 gauge needle tip (most important tool)
2. got a 2 pack of larger bottles to mix paint in (look like restaurant ketchup bottles)
3. large bottle of (non gloss) black acrylic paint
4. small bottle of gray acrylic paint
Lastly, go to Walmart or Auto-Parts & grab a tube of black silicone sealant
I cleaned the area in taillights with rubbing alcohol, mixed approximately 5 parts black to 1 part gray paint, then put into needle bottle & squeezed into crack of taillights... I'll be honest some areas are very difficult & I found it helpful to use paint masking tape, then used a can of compressed air (electronics cleaner) to blow the paint down into where it didn't want to run on its own... Also don't flood it, yes you'll need to go over it a couple times & finally seal it in with the silicone sealant.
Thanks... Just got them buttoned up actually
Will post Pic's in a few days when I get some time off
Sweet! I've always wanted a set of headers, but never wanted to install a set. Lol. I was hoping the 5.0's were easier than the old 5.4's, but after looking at videos, they're not. Lol
Finally.... I know I've been slacking, but we're too damn busy. Anyway the JBA's have been installed for appx a week now & I'll be honest, it was a horrible job. It took me appx 18 hour's in total to install these damn things! It was also necessary to remove the Right side Engine Mount & the Right side Fender Liner, unbolt the Left Engine Mount from the Engine Block & lift the Engine a few inches by placing a block of wood under the Oil Pan, then jacking carefully. Below are some Pic's I took along the way & my 2 issues I had, one of which was self inflicted...lol
1. Checking the new JBA Headers...
2. Nasty old Right side Manifold...
3. Right side Manifold removed...
4. Right side Header installed...
5. Left side Manifold removed...
6. Left side Header Installed...
7. Here's your enemy, thankfully the only Stud that broke was from the crossover. ALL engine Stud's came out easily...
8. Just to give you an idea how much I lifted the engine...
9. Here's my mistake, since the factory doesn't use Gaskets or Sealant, even though the directions told me to use a High Temp Sensor Safe Silicone, I thought I knew better & assembled without. They both of course leaked & I had to go to NAPA, remove the Y-Pipe again & applied Sealant to all 3 joints. Very specific directions for this Sealant, you must assemble immediately but only hand tighten until it oozes out, then let sit an hour to tack up before tightening down & finally, wait at least 24 hours before starting engine...
...
10. After my initial test-drive, I observed the Right side Header was hitting the Strut Tower Bracket & yes, the Valve Cover Bolts are going to be replaced soon. I have no idea what kind of cheap *ss Bolt's Ford is using, but considering I live in the South, this pisses me off...
...
11. After speaking to JBA, I placed 2 thick Fender Washers under the Right side Motor Mount (one at each Stud) & put a dab of High Heat Header Paint on the spot where the original coating was nicked off. Dustin from JBA assured me it will not rust due to finish damage. He stated its Stainless Steel construction would not rust through, although surface discoloration may appear, which is why I touched it up. This Pic, which has a piece of paper underneath, shows how much clearance I gained from Washers...
Note: this job requires a lot of time, cursing & beer, to complete... good luck
09-24-2018, 09:57 AM
