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I bought another full set of Spyder Lights. I have to say that I just don't feel they are quality after market lights, but I do like they way they look. I replaced them because the outside of the lamp started to peel away and yes of course I tried buffing them out but they also got cloudy from the inside as well so they basically deteriorated. I also noticed when I was hooking them up and testing them that they run incredibly HOT which is a bit worrisome. I am also not surprised therefore that the lamps start to degenerate so quickly due to the heat.
Cloudy (I had buffed them out a couple of time as well per instructions via Spyder customer service agent).
Note the GUNK of mess that is apparently the sealant around the lamp. Horrible QA (Quality Assurance) during production.
They do look sharp when finished but that's what they are...all Looks and No Substance ;->
I also installed a set of Harley Pedals/pads and some WeatherTech floor mats.
The Harley pedals/pads had to be modified just a little bit. I used a utility knife to cut the corners of both the emergency brake pedal and brake pedal as well as a little lube in order to get them over the pedals (took off the old ones of first course).
The gas pedal that I found was the hydraulic version but it is an exact fit, bolt holes, throttle cable, etc. You obviously are just not hooking up the hydraulic line.
Last edited by BlackBullXLT; 03-28-2015 at 05:26 PM.
Cmanjr-A fair as well as a great question, with that said though, it could start a debate about oil that has been gone through up and down and sideways via auto forums for years. So I will leave it at this, after talking to one of the gents at Royal Purple, 5w-30 was the agreed upon recommendation and I feel more than comfortable with it.
Here is a quote about oil from Machinery Lubrication Dot Com,
"The best protection against wear is probably a product that is a little thicker and has more antiwear additives than the oils that support the warranty. The best oil for your vehicle depends on your driving habits, the age of your engine and the climate you drive in, but it is not necessarily the type of oil specified in the owner’s manual or stamped on the dipstick.'
I started my Dynamat project today. The first thing I did was to take a decibel setting while driving 45mph & 70mph. I will be taking another decibel test at both mphs when I finish the project. I plan on Dynamating doors, floor, roof, rear of cab behind rear seats. I started with the front passenger door, pulled the panel off and started in with the outer skin. I covered everything and then did the inner panel. I used the inner skin as a template and then made cut outs for wiring, connections, and panel slots. I reused the Ford panels skin as well, sticking it to the door panel. The ''THUD" from the door is very noticeable versus the drivers side door. It's is also noticably heavier as well. I'll try to get to the passenger side tomorrow and possibly one or both of the super cab doors.
The tools.
Wooden roller that helped push the Dynamat into the skin.
Lower Seats first with Rears off. Cleaned up everything back there while I was in there and made a measurement for Dynamat when I receive my next shipment of it.
Ugly and Old OEM Grey Seats.
Finished.
Last edited by BlackBullXLT; 04-23-2015 at 10:14 AM.
Reason: Spelling Error
I added some Alpine SPR-68s to the front doors and when I get a chance I will do the same to the rears. I need the back seat and underseat storage area along with the fact that the SPR-68 deliver good low-end so no bass enclosure will be added.
03-28-2015, 04:44 PM
