IronMaiden

Hey guys,

this is my first post, and this will also be my first Ford. Here a little background: I used to work for Benz in R&D back in the 90s, have owned vehicles ranging from cheap VW Polos, Phaeton, S500, Accord, Cadillac Brougham, GMC Dmax, C7 Corvette to name a few.

My last 2 vehicles have been a 2016 Corvette and a 2017 GMC Sierra 2500 Duramax Denali. I'm no GM fan boy at all, I just happened to like those two and bought into it. That being said, I have been royally screwed by GM last year. The Corvette burned massive amounts of oil and was finally bought back. Went through hell with it for 1 year. The Denali had check engine lights come one with no available fix for several month, and it still has a major vibrations issue around 70 mph that might not be fixable at all (so called chassis vibration).

Anyways, I know that no brand is perfect, but needles to say: I'm done with GM. The Denali will be sold this month. I also don't like those waxed frames and the huge lack of innovation compared to trucks from Ford. Did I mention that the new Duramax engine can't be tuned? GM encrypted all computers with a new technology that allows them to change the encryption if it was hacked.

At first I thought I'll just replace my Denali with a Powerstroke Platinum F250, but the reality is, that I don't need a diesel or HD truck. It's just me, and I pull a trailer maybe 3 times a year. But I also don't like compromises, it either has to be the top of the line, or as cheap as possible. So I found out that I can buy a Ford V8 single cab truck for only $23k plus on Autotrader, and being able to tune the Coyote reliably with either just an intake and tuner, or a nice Whipple screw.

I always liked those single cab trucks from the late 70s and 80s. They had been simple, yet get the job done. A 2018 F150 XL short bed would hit the mark very closely. Now, I would add a few options that seem to make sense and don't let the price climb into King Ranch territory. This is the (factory) build I have in mind:

2018 Ford F-150 XL Regular Cab, 6-1/2' Box, 5.0L V8
- 4x4, 3.31
- 101A
- XL Chrome Appearance Package
- FX4 Off-Road Package
- Class IV Trailer Hitch
- Tailgate Step with Tailgate Lift Assist
- Bedliner - Spray-in
- Box Link
- Floor Liner - Tray Style, Ebony
- Flooring - Color-coordinated Carpet with Carpeted Matching Floor Mats
- Trailer Brake Controller (TBC)

After incentives, those options only add $1,700.

Now to my build. I really want to make this a sleeper. From the outside I want this to look like a cheap *** work truck. No nice rims, no lift, no exhaust tips.

What I would like to add
- Whipple 2.9 supercharger
- Matching intake for SC
- Headers and pipes for less restriction
- Quietest mufflers available
- Tail pipe that looks stock, maybe just 1" larger diameter
- Dyno tune
- Some form of sport suspension for less bodyroll and better handling. No lowering, no lift.
- Sticky tires on OEM rims, maybe a bit wider.
- Proper radio unit, better speakers in the doors, 3 chan amp, custom sub behind seats

I have build cars in the past, but not for a long time, and never a truck. I hope you guys can help me along the way.

Here are some first questions
1.) Are there any major "design" flaws with my idea?
2.) How will the 4x4 transfer case hold up with a 650 crank HP build?
3.) Any suggestions regarding the "Quietest mufflers available"? All I want is the SC whine. No exhaust rumble, nothing that gives away the tuning when sitting.
4.) What "sport" suspension would be a good fit for a fast and lightweight F150?
5.) Is the 3.31 ration the way to go?
6.) I will have to get this truck custom ordered, couldn't find a 100% match anywhere, not even close. What kind of dealer discount can I expect from a Ford dealer? The net price is $37k. I see discounts of $6 to $10k on Autotrader all day long for XL trucks. Will I be able to get my custom build down to $30k?

TOYSTRY

I just sold my 2015 Tahoe LTZ for the same reason (vibration at 70mph) since the dealership couldn't resolve that issue, the electrical HUD issues, the side view mirror noise, etc etc. Was contemplating on trading it in for an Escalade but they have the same problems. What kills me is all the GM commercials with that stupid spokesperson stating all of the JD Power awards on reliability........MY *** RELIABLE. Good luck on you new truck.

IronMaiden

Yeah, something has changed. My 2011 GMC truck was bulletproof, not one issue in over 4 years. GM knows about the vibration problem but totally ignores it. Anyways, I forced GM through legal means to buy back my Corvette, and I will do the same again if they don't fix my truck. With these vibrations I won't be able to sell it privately, and trading it in will cost me at least $5k.

What are your plans? Anything Ford?

OCMike

iTrader: (1)

Looks like you have a sound plan. I think I would go with the highest numerically axle ratio available, which is 3.73. You didn't have the E-Locker on in your list either. I think I would include that if you're ordering the truck. I'm going to also question the need for headers if you want to keep the quiet. Without headers a custom tune really isn't needed. Whipple 2018 dyno number with their standard tune are staggering 647 RWHP on 91 Octane. With a 20% drive line loss that comes to around 775 HP at the crank. Whipple estimates 93 octane will get you another 20-30 RWHP. The intake comes with the Whipple kit so it's not really needed to list it as part of your build.

If all goes well my Guard Green Metallic RCSB will be delivered in less than 2 weeks. I have a list of mods similar to yours, except I'll be leveling my truck and forgoing little bit of straight line acceleration.

Most of my mod parts with the exception of the Whipple are already sitting in my basement waiting to for the truck. My Whipple was ordered the day after Christmas and Whipple is still finalizing their tune. Hopefully the Whipple and the Truck will land within a few weeks of each other. As far as drive line durability, tough call, I'll have to get back with you on that.


Mike

IronMaiden

That's some really good info, thank you Mike.

Did you order your truck with 4x2? Did you get a discount from your dealer?

OCMike

iTrader: (1)

No...I ordered a 4X4...I live in northern Indiana, we have about 15" of snow on the ground now, I also have a steep driveway so a lowered truck might be problem....My truck will also be a daily driver. The discount after rebates on a loaded XLT came to about $7K...Not a fantastic deal but I was tired of shopping and the color I wanted couldn't be found anywhere. The dealer I ordered it from is only 3 miles away.

Here's a couple of photoshopped images of the mods I have planned.

wiread

I can't help with anything you're trying to do, so I apologize.

I do not drive a GM, but know they have cylinder deactivation as does our Honda and that thing would vibrate pretty badly when some would kick off. So much so that 60-75 mph's were not a range I would drive in. I'd have to be the guy going 65 down to 55 so I could keep accelerating and off so it wouldn't activate, or 80+ to keep it from activating.

Then I had to have cylinders 1-3 cleaned and new rings (warranty) and put a resistor in there so it always thinks the engine isn't warmed up, so it doesn't cut any cylinders out. Not all have it, but ours did and there was nothing they could do about it. I wonder if GM's issues are related? or rooted in something completely different.

and I also I just wanted to say, i'm a big fan, Of Iron Maiden

IronMaiden

WOW! That really looks great and the mods are a good match. I'm sitting in flat Florida, haven't seen snow or elevation in many years, otherwise I would have also opted for a nice big tire combo.

$7k is not too bad. I hope I'll be able to get a somewhat comparable discount. How long is your wait time about? 2 month?

IronMaiden

The GM diesel trucks don't have cylinder deactivation, but my Corvette did. That thing managed up to 36 MPG on the highway at 60 MPH. Obviously I was closer to 12

In a C7 Corvette you can turn cylinder deactivation off my going into the track mode.

I'm not a fan of cylinder deactivation at all. It puts more stress on the engine and lowers the life expectancy.

PS: I know Nicko McBrain, he lives in Boca and owns a great BBQ restaurant.

safetypin

2. If it's a BW1356, they've been around for a while in F150s. Haven't heard of any issues.
3. The STOCK F-150 muffler is bad ***. My brother actually put one on his 02 Silverado with a 2.9 Whipple. It is quiet at idle, and roars when it's up in the rpms. My stock 5.0 (just a tune, wont affect exhaust noise), acts the sale.
4. I'd actually look at a HELLWIG rear antisway bar. I put one on my pickup, with 34s (maybe big 33s) on 18" wheels, and it just about killed the body roll. The truck is planted.
5. If you have a 10 speed, I'd go as high as 3.55. My 3.73 rear end with a 4.17 first gear lurches into 2nd at maybe 35-40mph. 15.55 drive ratio. The 10 speed with 3.73s would be at 17.49 - forcing you to shift even faster, and making you spin the tires more. Actually, 3.31s might not be that bad at 15.2. So, 3.31s with a 10 speed makes almost the same drive ratio as a 3.73 with a 6 speed - while giving you lower highway RPMs.