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I've been getting into more projects the past few weekends. I rented a bobcat to work on widening my driveway and spread some CR-6. The bobcat was billed at about 6,000 lb (5,900-6200 depending on the source). This was too heavy for my 70CH car trailer (payload about 5,100 lb), so I rented a trailer with it. It came with chain binders anyway, so it was a good deal for that alone. The loaded trailer was probably grossing 8,500 to 9,000 lb. It really wasn't that much more than the Jeep and trailer. The truck handled it fine, it towed really well.
About a month or so ago, I ordered a new waterpump for the truck in anticipation of tackling the project. To date, the truck was dripping coolant intermittently. I had changed the oil earlier in the summer, which required me to remove my engine and transmission skid plates. This worked out well, as I could monitor the coolant issue better. The truck wasn't losing any coolant for a while, but the other weekend after a drive it produced a decent size puddle on the floor. So, this weekend I tackled the project. The ecoboost engine compartment certainly doesn't lend itself to maintenance with all of the turbo/intercooler piping, etc. I followed this thread on the forum, which provided a ton of insight to getting this job done. 2013 Ecoboost Water Pump Replacement . The newer replacement water pumps appear to use a 3 bolt design instead of the stock 4-bolt. In the case of the 3-bolt models, it looks like most include the new pulley. I elected to go with an AC Delco model that had metal fins and a 4-bolt design so the stock pulley could be utilized. The full parts list that I ordered is below. Please note, I did not end up needing to utilize either o-ring or seal. I figured it would be better to have them on hand than not. The radiator has a petcock on the passenger side, which aided in draining the system. I pulled out the intercooler and associated piping, in addition to the air intake piping. The thermostat housing must come off the water pump before you can unbolt the water pump from the block. The thermostat housing has a black pipe that runs to the back of the block, and was a pain to re-install. The trick is to remove the pipe from the back of the thermostat housing so that you can reinstall the black pipe separate from the housing. After fiddling around with it for a while, this proved successful. The system has taken about 2 gallons of pre-mixed Motorcraft coolant so far. I have driven the truck since the install with no issues. I continue to monitor the coolant level in the overflow bottle, as it took a bit for some of the air to get burped out. Hopefully it will stabilize soon.
In addition to the water pump and thermostat, I installed the Pegasus kit to replace the fitting on the overflow bottle. I had ordered the kit months ago, thinking that this fitting was the source of the coolant leak. Since I was under the hood and had the coolant system disassembled anyway, I cut the fitting out and used the Pegasus elbow, hose clamps, and barb fitting to button everything up. So far, so good. The stock fitting had some play in it so hopefully this is a more durable connection.
I'll monitor things for the next few weeks and then will put the skid plates back on. I ordered a Fumoto drain valve for the truck, so that I can drain oil without pulling my skid plates off. Next oil change I will throw this on. I need to modify the skid plates to allow oil to drain from the filter, or fight with cleaning up an oily mess every time on top of the skid plates.
As far as future projects, I have a few things in mind. In order to pass inspection, I had to get the front tint removed. Since the windshield on these trucks is so large and lets so much light in, it makes a huge difference having the fronts tinted. So, I will look at getting them re-tinted. I am considering getting some factory matched spray cans to paint the perimeter of the grille Golden Bronze. I think it would look pretty slick. I am casually looking for a good deal on some Raptor rims. I think the beadlock ones would look awesome. I am not sure what level kit the truck came with, but would like to bump the front up another 1/2-3/4". I'd like to find a lightly used set of Icons to accomplish this. I also go back and forth on wheel well liners. The truck is set up with a gooseneck turnover ball, so I would have to modify most liners to accommodate this. As far as aesthetics go, I would like to find a set of Raptor/Harley Davisdon tail lights for the truck, I think the darker tint and the lack of a white 'surround' would go well with the brown.
I noticed the truck has MD tags now. Where do live in MD now? After some time has the rear end settled from the AAL install?
Good eye, outside of Frederick. I'll have to measure the driver's side next time I pull it out of the garage. But from measuring the passenger side, maybe 1/4-1/2". I've been very pleased with the AAL, and would highly recommend.
Good eye, outside of Frederick. I'll have to measure the driver's side next time I pull it out of the garage. But from measuring the passenger side, maybe 1/4-1/2". I've been very pleased with the AAL, and would highly recommend.
i spent about 6 months down there for work! I was staying in Fredrick. Nice area I couldn’t handle the traffic though. It’s out of control!
Beyond a socket set, floor jack, and jack stands, you will need 2-6" C-Clamps. I have a harbor freight special electric impact gun that proved immensely useful for disassembly.
We chocked the front tires of the truck, and began the install by jacking up the rear axle of the truck to take the rear tires off. I used jackstands under the rear shackle mounts to support the weight of the truck. The lower mount of both shocks can be unbolted. I discovered my shocks to be pretty worn out, so they may get the bilstein treatment soon. The axle can be jacked up until there is tension on the springs. I would highly suggest installing one side at a time. Loosen the u-bolt nuts on the passenger side, and take them all the way off on the drivers side. Remove associated top and bottom u-bolt brackets. Now the axle is disconnected from the leaf springs. The only thing holding the leaf springs together is now the centering pins/bolts. Install C-clamps on either side of the axle, compressing the leaf springs together. Once secure, you may now unbolt the centering pins. Once unbolted, you can let the rear axle down on the floor jack. The axle, block, and spacer/zero rate will drop with the axle. Now you may carefully un-screw the C-clamps. Be cautious as the springs are under some tension. The over-load leaf is basically straight, and the middle leaf is clipped in at the ends to the main leaf- so the leafs will come apart easily.
For re-assembly, now you need to install the add-a-leaf underneath the two main leafs, on top of the overload leaf. The add-a-leaf has a lot more arch to it, so you may have to push the axle down at one end to squeeze it in.
A very useful tip that I came across on other threads on this forum is to use 3/8" ratchet extensions as 'temporary' centering pins while assembling the new leaf pack. This will help line up the new spring and overload when you compress the pack to install new center pins. At this point, you do not need to install the block or the spacer/zero rate. Once all of the springs are installed and aligned, you can begin jacking up the rear axle to compress the spring pack. Ensure the centering pins stay aligned. Once the springs are compressed together, install the C-clamps on either side of the axle. Leave the ratchet extensions in to keep them aligned. Once the clamps are tight, you may lower the rear axle. Now, you need to install the new centering pins and spacers to bolt the entire leaf pack back together. Remove the socket extensions one at a time. Don't forget the U-bolt bracket that sits on top of the springs--it gets bolted to the pack. Snug both centering pins up. I left final tightening until the u-bolts were on.
Once the centering pins are in, you can un-screw the c-clamps. You may now install the block on the axle. Next, jack the axle up, making sure the axle, block, and centering pins all line up. Once they are compressed and in position, you may re-install the u-bolts. Snug the U-bolts up evenly. This side is basically done.
Repeat process on the other side. Make sure to bolt the shocks back in before you put the tires on- it is much easier. On the drivers side, I did have trouble squeezing the new springs in while the suspension was drooped- it put a lot of tension on a brake line. The brake line runs to a bracket on the top of the rear diff. A 13mm bolt can be removed to give some more slack. A 10 mm bolt holds another bracket to the pass side axle next to the lower shock mount. This can also be removed to gain more slack.
I have read that you can install the add-a-leaf by removing the tire on one side at a time. We tried this for the passenger side once the drivers side was complete, but the truck was very unstable on the jack stands.
All-in-all we probably spent 3 hours installing the new springs while also watching a football game. The pro-comp directions were decent, and there's plenty of information on the forum.
Here are the results. I gained right at 2" in the rear. I am expecting the spring to settle in, especially once I get a load or two on it. If I end up with 1.5" -2" I will be happy.
The truck now has a rake back to it. If it doesn't settle, I can always remove the stock spacer/zero rate to drop it about 3/8". I plan on finding a camper shell, so it should work out perfect.
Here's the leaf pack with the add-a-leaf (third from top, above the overload)
Overall I am pleased with the results. It was also good to find out my rear shocks can use a refresh. I have only minimal driving since the install. The rear is firmed up a tad, but mostly in the sense of feeling more solid, planted, with less body roll. A new set of shocks should only help.
So far, I would highly recommend this to anyone looking to compliment a front level kit or to gain load carrying capacity without sacrificing stock ride or needing a full-blown lift. This can be accomplished by a novice mechanic, so long as you make sure the truck is safely supported.
This truck is absolutely beautiful. Exactly what I want to do with my 2010. I apologize for the late response, but what are your tires? Are they stock size? They look killer in my opinion with this setup, but I would like to get bigger in the future eventually. Once the budget agrees with the price... I am looking at the Rough Country 2 inch leveling kit with the Pro-Comp or Rancho add a leaf, but by the looks of your truck I just may say screw it and do the same as you did.
09-03-2018, 09:04 PM
