MadViking

iTrader: (1)

I have always been a Chevrolet fan, but was drawn to the aluminum body of the F-150. I am tired of dealing with body rust! I am not a person that buys and sells and typically get attached to my vehicles. I usually keep them until it is no longer financially practical to maintain them. Initially I started looking at used trucks and since I wanted aluminum, that meant 2015 or newer.

I started looking at the beginning of 2020 and got more serious in early Spring. Of course, the Covid-19 pandemic was in full swing at that point and the uncertainty gave me a little pause on making such a large purchase. On the other side of the coin, we could all be dead within the year, so I may as well go out in style. At that time, the used market was crazy and truck were either difficult to find or within a few thousand of new.

The truck had to be a short bed as that is just my preference. Initially, I wanted a super cab as the additional space is great for keeping things out of the weather and secured. The crew cabs are too big and expensive and just means that any time you go on a trip, everyone will want you to drive. I only have one kid left in the house and 95% of the time it is just me in the truck, so I decided on a regular cab. It will be my daily and will remain outside as my garage is full with my nicer vehicles, so that meant I wanted a lighter color that is easier to maintain or appear clean.

I do all of my own maintenance and am intimidated by all of todays electronics. Therefore, I wanted more of a base model truck without all of the heated seats, defrosting mirrors, backup assist, lane assist, etc. I am also a speed junkie and plan to tow with it, so it had to have a good engine in it (3.3L was not a consideration). Unfortunately, Ford does not offer the 3.5L Ecoboost in a RCSB platform, so the choice of engines was between the 5.0L and the 2.7L EB. The 2.7L EB has more power potential with a tune, but until the warranty expires I have no intention of making any mods, so the 5.0L is a better choice in stock form. I also realize that it is a pickup truck and if I want to go fast I will either drive one of my cars or motorcycles.

So, the search was on for an XL RCSB that was white or any shade of grey. With the pandemic going on, it proved to be very difficult to find a truck like this. They were all "utility" trucks with the 3.3L. I was willing to drive or fly anywhere for the right truck and price. Dealers were reluctant to deal as they could not replace their inventory and the 2021's were coming soon. If I ordered a truck, they would not give me an OTD price as that would depend on whatever incentives/rebates were going on when they actually took delivery. Build times were uncertain as Ford production was either slowed or shut down.

Anyway, I finally found my truck. It was ingot silver with the sport package, 5.0L, locking diff with 3.31 ratio, 101A, spray-in bedliner, and carpet. The truck was built 7/1/20 and I purchased it off the transport trailer on 8/1/20.

MadViking

iTrader: (1)

First mods were ASC vent visors (929721) and Husky rear wheel well liners (79121). I can't stand seeing the bed sides on lighter colored trucks and the liners really transform the truck IMO. The fit was great, but was not real crazy about the hardware supplied as it consisted of screws much longer than required and metal speed nuts. In the front of the opening, they just wanted you to put a speed nut on the back side of a 1/2" diameter hole and just sandwich. They should have included a plastic expanding nut, much like what is used to fasten a license plate, which is what I did.

DirtFarmer

the is a members build section here on the forums. might want to take this over there.

Also, nice truck!

MadViking

iTrader: (1)

Next mod was trying to hide the pinch weld below the doors. Again, with lighter paint colors it just really stands out to me and looks very unfinished. This area will see it's share of rocks and road debris, so I purchased a spray can of Rust-Oleum "truck bed coating" to subdue it.

MadViking

iTrader: (1)

Thank you. Didn't know about the build section. Can one of the moderators move it?

MadViking

iTrader: (1)

Next up was a JLT passenger side oil separator (3016P). I know there are all kinds of varying opinions on the subject, but common sense tells me you should always avoid running oil vapors through your intake tract. Although I just have a naturally aspirated 5.0L, I feel it is cheap insurance and will keep the intake much cleaner.

MadViking

iTrader: (1)

I will tow a 7x16 enclosed trailer with the truck and it was not equipped with a hitch, so next up was adding a hitch, trailer brake controller, and 7-pin receptacle. Yes the locking differential was another must-have option. Again, there are arguments about how good they are, and I don't like that they kick out at 20mph, but I assume the gears would stay locked as long as you stay accelerating. And I have no desire to swap an open diff for a LSD on a brand new truck and have to deal with any warranty issues.



I used an 2" hole saw to cut the main portion of the keyhole, than a utility knife to finish. In the photo below, I am using the hole saw and a center punch to locate the center of the hole. I had removed the plastic bumper cover so I wouldn't take any paint of the metal.


For the wiring, I purchase the following parts and used FORScan to enable the brake controller. I bought a OBDLink MX+ to handle the communication between my laptop and the truck.

• JL3Z-2C006-AA for the brake controller
• FU5Z-14489-A for the receptacle
• HL3Z-13A576-D for the wire harness (replaces 4-pin section with 7-pin)

For the hitch, I purchased a Curt Class III (13118). That is good for 900 pound tongue on a 6,000 pound trailer, so that will serve me.

MadViking

iTrader: (1)

Then it was time to get serious. The truck has 300 miles on it, but the height had to be addressed. Why they have 4x2's 8' in the air is beyond me. I am an avid motorcyclist and will have them in the bed occasionally. As a matter of fact, I rode over 200 miles to pick the truck up, and was scratching my head about how to get it loaded in my new truck. Any ramp would have been at a 45 degree angle, and the bed of the truck is raked down a couple of degrees, so the chance of high-centering was great. Luckily, there was a guy a the dealership with one of those trailers with the elevators.

Almost leveled out with 400 pounds in the bed. You can see how the tailgate is still four foot off the ground. And NO, the freaking tailgate will not shut, lacking an inch or so. Which means the back-up camera is facing the ground when you have bikes in the bed. Grrrrr

MadViking

iTrader: (1)

I have always been a fan of lowered trucks (not slammed). I want to maintain the ride quality and being able to haul/tow is a must. I have used Belltech in the past on several previous trucks with success, so I ordered their kit 1001SP kit. I like the trucks to have a little rake to them (level looks squatted to my eyes), so I went 3"-4" to take a little out, but not all. I also felt like I can easily go 5" by removing the front drop hangers if I want to later. I would have preferred to use spindles, as I have in the past, but plan on using the stock 17" wheels in the winter. Drop spindles require a minimum of a 20" wheel.

Along with the lowering kit, I bought a set of Timbren (FR1504R) overload bumpers to reduce squat when loaded. I did not use the bracket (spacer) that typically mounts between the bumper and the frame. I bolted the bumper directly to the frame. Don't hate on my u-bolts, I was still playing with the pinion angle.

Now onto the lowering kit...

MadViking

iTrader: (1)

I was very disappointed with how the F-150 is aligned. To adjust caster and camber, the lower control arm is mounted in slots. There are no eccentrics to control movement or enable fine adjustments. You just have to slide the control arms along the slots. Try doing that when you have the front tires under load, which you have to before tightening the control arm bolts or you will create a torsion spring and tear the bushings. I watched with horror as the alignment guys latched come-alongs onto my brand new truck trying to prevent them from moving. Then, a week later I was back in the shop as one of them moved slowly going over a speed-bump, throwing my steering wheel off.

Speaking of these slots, lowering using the strut method requires elongating these slots so you can get the camber within spec. This was a PITA as there are eight locations or roughly 1/8" steel. Other than that, the front when smoothly and I was happy with the results. It also seemed to have moved the tires in some, and I was pleased with that due to my wheel/tire combo, but more on that later.


The rear was a whole different experience...