How to replace brake pads and rotors on 04-08
03-03-2010, 07:21 PM
#31
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yea not really sure why you bought fake drilled rotors they have to be drilled all the way through to do anything. second there is no need to grease front hub because it does not move after you install it. third the ebrake does NOT adjust from using the ebrake it adjusts every time you go from reverse to drive. just thought you should know before telling people the wrong things
03-07-2010, 12:49 AM
#32
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warped rotors
Has anyone had problems with their rotors warping? My 08 f150 was purchased new in Dec 08. After 10,000 kms, I noticed a shimmy when braking at hwy speeds. Dealer told me they were warped and turned them free. 1yr or 20,000 kms. Well it happened again at 14,500 kms and 15 mos old and they won't cover it. They did offer me a reduced price, but w.t.f!!
He said this wasn't common, so I suggested the parts might be defective, he didn't go for it!
Any suggestions on where or who to go to next?
I didn't want my first new purchase to be my last
Thanks, larry8.
He said this wasn't common, so I suggested the parts might be defective, he didn't go for it!
Any suggestions on where or who to go to next?
I didn't want my first new purchase to be my last
Thanks, larry8.
03-14-2010, 09:23 PM
#33
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Rotors can warp for several reasons. If you get the rotors hot from use and then splash cold water on them. They will warp. I have also heard if you come to a hard stop you should let the wheels (and rotors) roll 1/4 to 1/2 turn before stopping completely. This will reduce thee chance of hot spots which can also cause warping. If the rotors have been turned before or if they are worn, they can warp more easily. I'm no expert, but I guess it heavily depend on your driving/ braking style and the conditions in which you drive.
07-20-2010, 12:36 PM
#34
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I just want to add to this IMO the primary reason for warped rotors. Over torqued lug nuts. Period. Most tire shops, dealers, people, just use an air impact wrench to torque lugs nuts on. (Usually resulting in over torqued lugs) The proper way is to use a torque wrench and torque them to the manufacturers recommended torque spec. I've been doing it this way for YEARS with good results. So, next time you go to a tire shop, insist they use a torque wrench, and not the dreaded Impact wrench. Most passenger cars I torque to 80 ft lbs. I torque the F150 to about 140, since I have an FX4. (manual says 150)
Last edited by Rob J; 07-20-2010 at 12:41 PM.
02-21-2011, 05:45 PM
#38
DIY
this is the right link : http://www.07fx4.com/urls/brakes.htm
(some pictures supressed below, but complete in the link)
(some pictures supressed below, but complete in the link)
Complete front and rear rotor and brake pad replacement
-----> 2007 F150 FX4 <-----
Replaced with Brake Performance rotors and Ceramic pads
Tools Needed:
1. 10mm (rear), 13mm (front), and 18mm (front) sockets
2. 1/2" drive (for 18mm socket) and Breaker bar
3. 3 Pound rubber mallet
4. 18" pry bar
5. Steel and brass wire brushes
6. CRC Disc Brake quiet
7. CRC Synthetic Brake & Caliper grease
8. 8" C-Clamp
9. Patience
1. The best way to do a complete and safe job is put the entire truck on jack stands:
2. Tires removed and old equipment still on.
3. Find the two 18mm outer bolts (attached to the caliper/bracket) and break loose with 1/2" socket and breaker bar. Once the bolts are removed, use pry bar and flat head screw driver to gently pry off the caliper from the brake pad carrier. (This is much easier than trying to remove the entire assembly together).
4. Hang the caliper by a wire (do not let it hang by the brake line itself). Once removed, remove the two 13mm bolts (they have rubber boots on them) from the brake pad carrier. Once these are removed, slowly "walk" the carrier off the rotor. Be very carful not to let the two locater clips (springs) pop off while doing this.
5. Once caliper and pad carrier are off, rotor should come right off. Clean up hub in preparation for new rotor.
6. Ford stock rotors and new rotors
7. Ford pads (left) and new ceramic pads (right)
8. Place a thin layer of CRC Synthetic Brake & Caliper grease on the hub before installing new rotor. This only need to be done to the front rotors.
9. Gently install new rotor and tighten it down with 3 lug nuts in preparation for the reinstall of caliper housing.
10. Clean caliper housing with brass brush to remove all brake dust (paint at this time, if you want to). Slowly and evenly (using old brake pad) compress the caliper pistons in. There is no need to remove the master cylinder cap because there is a built in vent.
11. Once compressed back, they should be even and flush with the housing.
12. At this time, clean the face of them and apply a thin coat of CRC Disc Brake Quiet. Once the new pads are installed in the brake pad carrier, gently slide it in to place, within the caliper.
13. Reinstall the caliper (with the brake pad carrier) on the new rotor tightening the 18mm bolts first (to the brackets), then tighten the 13mm brake pad carrier bolts.
14. This is the rear brake housing. There are two 10mm bolts the hold the rear caliper in place. Remove those bolts and hang the caliper or set on something so it is not hanging by the brake line. Remove rotor - this CAN BE a real "job". The E-Brake pads were holding the rotor on and I had to use a 3 pound rubber mallet and a couple of good swings to remove the old rotor. Once removed, clean up all the parts with the wire brushes.
15. You can see the E-Brake shoes here. See how they are not totally retracted? There is a star wheel at the bottom of the housing for the E-Brakes. Adjust it so the shoes are all the way in, in preparation for the installation of new rotor.
16. Replacement of the rear brake pads are pretty simple. Again, slowly compress the single piston back in so it is smooth with the housing, and install the new pads. One of them "snaps" in to the actual middle of the piston (rear brakes are one piston) and the other pad "snaps in to place on the housing.
17. Stock Ford Rotor and new rotor. Once you have installed the new pads in to the caliper unit, slide the new rotor in to place. If it does not slide on, check to make sure the E-brake is completely retracted by adjusting the star wheel on the bottom of the housing. Using the 10mm bolts, reinstall the calipers.
18. Finished brake job. Before you go ANYWHERE, start truck and pump brakes or you will have NO brakes to start with. Push and release E-Brake a few times so it will "self adjust" itself.
Last edited by picaflor; 02-21-2011 at 05:49 PM.
07-28-2011, 03:35 PM
#39
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I put this up as a web page on my site as there are a lot of pictures.
http://www.07fx4.com/urls/brakes
http://www.07fx4.com/urls/brakes
Great pic's! Nice to have someone break it down in plain english with pic's to reference.Started my front ones today. It's been sitting for about 3 weeks waiting for me to get to it. My left front caliper cylinders busted while backing out of my driveway. I could barely stop getting it back up in the drive. Due to lack of funds, it had to sit until today.
I started on it about 9 this morning and found the caliper definitely bad, also rotor and pads. Pulled off caliper and pads but struggled with the bracket 'til 1:00 and gave up. The bolts wouldn't budge, used PB blaster and still no luck. Any suggestions, besides an impact driver, of which I don't have access to
, would be grrreeeaaaatttly appreciated. By the way, it just hit 100 here, KY.
