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That this has already been worked out.
There are multiple places to tie into, but involve splicing/soldering, which I steer away from. There are 2 locations at the BCM, however you have to get creative unless you dont care how it looks. I now offer this circuit as an upgrade on my conversion headlight harness....soon there will be just this circuit offered in a PnP design. Even PnP Raptor running light solutions....sorry I just havent been on here much these days. I may become a vendor.
Last edited by 2016BoostedGreyGoose; 04-06-2019 at 12:21 PM.
These trucks are super easy to take apart and put back together and for me its always easier to chase an OEM solution rather than splicing or soldering sooo I depinned the 3 pin connector and repinned a correct 4 pin connector. This is inside the cab.working on the truck's harness. The Raptor light already has the correct 4 pin connector so this was the only real work that needed to be done.
That this has already been worked out.
There are multiple places to tie into, but involve splicing/soldering, which I steer away from. There are 2 locations at the BCM, however you have to get creative unless you dont care how it looks. I now offer this circuit as an upgrade on my conversion headlight harness....soon there will be just this circuit offered in a PnP design. Even PnP Raptor running light solutions....sorry I just havent been on here much these days. I may become a vendor.
It may have been worked out but nobody has posted how they do it in detail, I’ve been asking in multiple threads for weeks, LOL. You’re much smarter than I cause instill don’t understand what’s going on in your pictures.
I was planning to run the wire to a fuse at the BCM. Found a video on the YouTubes where a guy used one of the small fuse tap clips on the fuse so it allows you to get the cover back on the fuse box.
Are you saying I could buy something from you that would make it plug and play? If so please please message me so I can send you some money ASAP.
It may have been worked out but nobody has posted how they do it in detail, I’ve been asking in multiple threads for weeks, LOL. You’re much smarter than I cause instill don’t understand what’s going on in your pictures.
I was planning to run the wire to a fuse at the BCM. Found a video on the YouTubes where a guy used one of the small fuse tap clips on the fuse so it allows you to get the cover back on the fuse box.
Are you saying I could buy something from you that would make it plug and play? If so please please message me so I can send you some money ASAP.
I am also interested if there is a P&P solution available!
Ok, so what I am saying is that atm I have been sending out halogen to led conversion harnesses with this wire already built into the harness. On my desk are my plans to offer ONLY this wire (circuit) for those that already have headlight conversion harnesses or already have a truck that came with led headlights and wouldnt need the whole harness. Once I am caught up on back orders (no I am not advertising here) I will finalize the single wire solution for all cab configurations. What I did in my own truck, since I have the tools I need, was togo directly to the BCM, remove the pin associated with the park light circuit, CLS05, cut the pin off and then crimp on a new pin with the factory wire and the wire I added to the 3rd brake light. Doing so allowed me to wrap everything up and it 100% undetected....routed exactly as it is in the Raptor. Now I understand this method isnt for everyone, but it is the best. With this said I am working on another solution to make this connection easier for those that dont want to or have the means to do what I did. I could get long winded with this and put everyone to sleep as there are many MANY ways of deriving power for the DRL connection required for the 3rd brake light but I dont want to bore anyone....seriously. I know that I tend to over engineer or otherwise complicate things but I enjoy wiring. So with this said I will assist any DIY's by answering questions if I can. I am not trying to sell anything on the forum.
I got a wire run up to the fuse box in the passenger floorboard. I was hoping there would be a fuse I could tap into but doesn’t look like that’s possible if I want the running lights on the brake light to only come on when the headlights are on.
Is my only option going to be having the running lights on 24/7 with a switched power fuse?
I just added the Raptor brake light to my 2018. For those that want to retain the factory harness/connector here are some pictures of how to de-pin the connectors.
- Use the tool with the black handle or any sharp point to release the clips for the white retaining cap on the connector.
- Then use other Molex tool to slide down in the top of the connector (with retaining cap removed) to release the internal tab holding the pins
- Swap wires over following the same color placement
- I used the 4 pin Raptor connector on the 4th unused blue wire just for protection until I have time to run that wire to power to gain the 3 LED running light functionality.
Thats how I did mine as well. I’m still trying to find a parking light circuit to wire the rest of my lights into. I hate tapping into factory wires. Brake and courtesy lights. Brake on.
Many PMs so a quick update. PnP solution is live. 4 test "mules" were shipped out to testers. After they each report back I will finalize the physical wiring, but the stand alone circuit is PnP no splicing or cutting into oem wires. You will need only to depin 3 wires at the 3rd brake light and repin them, as well as depin 2 other wires and repin 1.
Last edited by 2016BoostedGreyGoose; 09-22-2019 at 08:53 AM.
04-06-2019, 11:33 AM
