Budget by-pass oil filter system
04-11-2011, 11:00 PM
#1
HouTxEngr
Thread Starter
Budget by-pass oil filter system
I bought my 2010 F150 with thoughts of it being my last new truck. Every one of my past trucks lasted 10-15 years and only once did I have to rebuild a motor or tranny. Lucky I guess, but I like to think that dedicated maintenance had a lil something to do with getting on average of 175-250K on my trucks.
With synthetic oil being required now, I was looking for a way to both extend my oil changes, and to ensure that I was not going to injure myself trying to change the oil in my new truck. BTW-this is the ONLY thing I dislike about this new truck. What were they thinking about when they put the filter there?
Solution: by-pass oil filter remote set-up (on a budget)
Parts required:
Dual filter remote oil filter kit (summit racing; G4986-1)
WIX by-pass filter (51641)
Modified filter nipple (3/4-16 1-1/4" long with 1/16" orifice)
Pictures attached; instructions to follow....
With synthetic oil being required now, I was looking for a way to both extend my oil changes, and to ensure that I was not going to injure myself trying to change the oil in my new truck. BTW-this is the ONLY thing I dislike about this new truck. What were they thinking about when they put the filter there?
Solution: by-pass oil filter remote set-up (on a budget)
Parts required:
Dual filter remote oil filter kit (summit racing; G4986-1)
WIX by-pass filter (51641)
Modified filter nipple (3/4-16 1-1/4" long with 1/16" orifice)
Pictures attached; instructions to follow....
Last edited by HouTxEngr; 04-14-2011 at 01:48 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by HouTxEngr:
OTTO[AL] (09-11-2022),
SD_F1504x4 (10-15-2021)
04-11-2011, 11:23 PM
#2
HouTxEngr
Thread Starter
Instructions: by-pass oil filter setup
The instructions for installing this were included in the dual oil filter remote location kit, except for the nipple modification.
The nipple modification consists of:
- tapping the ID of one of the supplied nipples with a 1/2-20
- take a 1/2-20 steel bolt and thread ~1/2" of it into the nipple
- saw off the part of the bolt sticking out of the nipple
- cut a groove across the face of the bolt sticking out of the nipple
- drill a 1/16" hole through the center of the bolt
- using a blade screwdriver, turn the bolt until it is just below the lip of the nipple
- tig the bolt piece in place (carefully)
- this is the nipple that you will install the by-pass filter onto.
The idea behind the modification is to reduce the flow of oil to 1/8 of the total flow. The slower flowing by-pass filter will capture the smaller particles that cause oil to become "dirty". You still have to service the full-flow filter per manufactures recommended intervals, but that is all you'll need to change (or clean). The by-pass filter change interval will be determined on how you drive and the enviornment you drive in. My city driving will likely require I change the by-pass filter 25-30K miles. The oil analysis reports should help me with when to change the oil.
This set-up cost me $165. (included additional items: reuseable full flow filter; Fumoto F-106N oil pan drain valve; 22"L x 3"W x 3/8" filter assembly mounting bracket; red wire loom)
Figure on taking a Saturday afternoon to do this install.
The nipple modification consists of:
- tapping the ID of one of the supplied nipples with a 1/2-20
- take a 1/2-20 steel bolt and thread ~1/2" of it into the nipple
- saw off the part of the bolt sticking out of the nipple
- cut a groove across the face of the bolt sticking out of the nipple
- drill a 1/16" hole through the center of the bolt
- using a blade screwdriver, turn the bolt until it is just below the lip of the nipple
- tig the bolt piece in place (carefully)
- this is the nipple that you will install the by-pass filter onto.
The idea behind the modification is to reduce the flow of oil to 1/8 of the total flow. The slower flowing by-pass filter will capture the smaller particles that cause oil to become "dirty". You still have to service the full-flow filter per manufactures recommended intervals, but that is all you'll need to change (or clean). The by-pass filter change interval will be determined on how you drive and the enviornment you drive in. My city driving will likely require I change the by-pass filter 25-30K miles. The oil analysis reports should help me with when to change the oil.
This set-up cost me $165. (included additional items: reuseable full flow filter; Fumoto F-106N oil pan drain valve; 22"L x 3"W x 3/8" filter assembly mounting bracket; red wire loom)
Figure on taking a Saturday afternoon to do this install.
Last edited by HouTxEngr; 04-13-2011 at 12:55 PM. Reason: forgot something
The following users liked this post:
OTTO[AL] (09-11-2022)
05-10-2011, 12:05 PM
#5
HouTxEngr
Thread Starter
The OEM Motorcraft FL820-S has a flow rate of 2.62 gpm with 75 psi @ 2000 rpm (~ 92% efficient @ 20 microns). Visit "Bob is the oil guy.com" for details like this.
The cleanable, full flow oil filter replacement has a flow rate of 20+ gpm and "Filtration: SAE J1858 Tested: 90% more efficient than "throw away" filters."
The by-pass filter is flowing a mere 1/8 of the flow rate of the full flow filter (not a factor in the overall scheme of flow rates). It's job is to remove the smaller particles and the "dirty" part of oil. This is the part of this set-up that extends the oil replacement intervals.
Finally, the only restriction in this set-up: the 1/2" ID hosing between the adaptor and the filter bracket. Typical flow rate for 1/2" ID hose at 75 psi is 22 gpm (minimum bends; run lengths less than 30").
Amsoil, the leader in the area of oil by-pass systems, follows this same path of flow management and resulting flow rates.
The goal of this "fun" was to minimize oil changes, and make the effort of changing the oil as painless as possible. This setup does both, without breaking the bank.
The cleanable, full flow oil filter replacement has a flow rate of 20+ gpm and "Filtration: SAE J1858 Tested: 90% more efficient than "throw away" filters."
The by-pass filter is flowing a mere 1/8 of the flow rate of the full flow filter (not a factor in the overall scheme of flow rates). It's job is to remove the smaller particles and the "dirty" part of oil. This is the part of this set-up that extends the oil replacement intervals.
Finally, the only restriction in this set-up: the 1/2" ID hosing between the adaptor and the filter bracket. Typical flow rate for 1/2" ID hose at 75 psi is 22 gpm (minimum bends; run lengths less than 30").
Amsoil, the leader in the area of oil by-pass systems, follows this same path of flow management and resulting flow rates.
The goal of this "fun" was to minimize oil changes, and make the effort of changing the oil as painless as possible. This setup does both, without breaking the bank.
The following users liked this post:
Powerlifter405 (07-06-2021)
05-24-2011, 11:16 PM
#7
HouTxEngr
Thread Starter
The oil filter itself doesn't care how it's mounted.
But, on the other hand, YOU might not like oil dripping on you if the threads are down (where it gets to empty itself on you).
I change my oil, so messy is not my preference.
Threads up keeps the oil in the filter...as shown in the picture.
But, on the other hand, YOU might not like oil dripping on you if the threads are down (where it gets to empty itself on you).
I change my oil, so messy is not my preference.
Threads up keeps the oil in the filter...as shown in the picture.
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TheMarshmellow (03-26-2022)
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05-25-2011, 02:09 PM
#9
HouTxEngr
Thread Starter
I've seen these set-ups on 18-wheelers where the filters were ~3 feet above the oil pan. The filters were always mounted the same way as my pictures show on mine.
In summary: no, height of the filter bracket is not critical. The critical point to be considerate of is the length of the hoses. Keep them as short as possible (my 1/2" ID hoses are 25").
In summary: no, height of the filter bracket is not critical. The critical point to be considerate of is the length of the hoses. Keep them as short as possible (my 1/2" ID hoses are 25").
