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Issue: How To: Spark plug change-2004-2008 5.4 3V V8
Find out how to make this difficult task manageable with more information about the following:
• Tool and parts needed
• Step-by-step directions
• Proper use of a lisle toolClick Here
Please Read the full discussion below
Find out how to make this difficult task manageable with more information about the following:
• Tool and parts needed
• Step-by-step directions
• Proper use of a lisle toolClick Here
Please Read the full discussion below
How To: Spark plug change-2004-2008 5.4 3V V8
#461
Mark
iTrader: (1)
that is the correct plug... suggest replacement of the boots and springs while you are in there.
#462
Need some advice here. Not really new to site, knew its been here, just never registered till now.
Have 2004 with the 5.4 3v. Last Friday, it developed a miss. check engine light started flashing. Did search on what the possible flashing could mean, found it my be related to a misfire.
Being the truck has 117,000 and I've never replaced the plugs, since I got it at 55,000 miles. Read up on what all I needed and such.
Well, lets just say this didn't turn out so great. I couldn't even crack the plugs to spray anything down the heads, they were that tight.
I did spray carb cleaner at first, then PB blaster, let sit. Then when I was ready to give it a try, blew out the excessive.
Never have I ever had such tight plugs, working back and forth, managed to get them out. Verdict? 7 broken, 1 out complete.
Problem? One broke with partial electrode stick out of bottom, so you cannot get the tool down on it
2 or 3 have broken with too much porcelain so you cannot get tool on it either.
Anybody have suggestions on getting the rest of plugs out?
I get a bad feeling I may have to take the heads off.
3 done on drivers side and 1 done on passenger side.
Need to know ASAP. PM'ng me would be great.
If you got all yours out, consider yourself lucky.
Update: Doing more research, I found on another forum, that I'll just have to just slowly chip out the porcelain thats still down there enough
so I can get the removal tool on the shield of the plug. Have to get a small skinny pointed punch to do the trick
One plug has alittle bit of electrode sticking out, it spins in the remaining porcelain of the shield, but just cannot get a skinny enough needle nose
pliers to pull it out (this on is the back 4th plug drivers side)
Got them all out, no easy feat but its done, it didn't take care of the rough idle. Got code reader. I replaced a VCT solenoid on Bank 1 and I'm back on the road.
Thanks to forum, has alot of info on here, but each situation is different for everyone.. I don't mind turning wrenches on my stuff, you save a ton of money if not afraid to take it on.
Would not want to do it every day for a living...lol
Have 2004 with the 5.4 3v. Last Friday, it developed a miss. check engine light started flashing. Did search on what the possible flashing could mean, found it my be related to a misfire.
Being the truck has 117,000 and I've never replaced the plugs, since I got it at 55,000 miles. Read up on what all I needed and such.
Well, lets just say this didn't turn out so great. I couldn't even crack the plugs to spray anything down the heads, they were that tight.
I did spray carb cleaner at first, then PB blaster, let sit. Then when I was ready to give it a try, blew out the excessive.
Never have I ever had such tight plugs, working back and forth, managed to get them out. Verdict? 7 broken, 1 out complete.
Problem? One broke with partial electrode stick out of bottom, so you cannot get the tool down on it
2 or 3 have broken with too much porcelain so you cannot get tool on it either.
Anybody have suggestions on getting the rest of plugs out?
I get a bad feeling I may have to take the heads off.
3 done on drivers side and 1 done on passenger side.
Need to know ASAP. PM'ng me would be great.
If you got all yours out, consider yourself lucky.
Update: Doing more research, I found on another forum, that I'll just have to just slowly chip out the porcelain thats still down there enough
so I can get the removal tool on the shield of the plug. Have to get a small skinny pointed punch to do the trick
One plug has alittle bit of electrode sticking out, it spins in the remaining porcelain of the shield, but just cannot get a skinny enough needle nose
pliers to pull it out (this on is the back 4th plug drivers side)
Got them all out, no easy feat but its done, it didn't take care of the rough idle. Got code reader. I replaced a VCT solenoid on Bank 1 and I'm back on the road.
Thanks to forum, has alot of info on here, but each situation is different for everyone.. I don't mind turning wrenches on my stuff, you save a ton of money if not afraid to take it on.
Would not want to do it every day for a living...lol
Last edited by NDakotaGuy; 06-28-2019 at 03:30 PM.
#463
Senior Member
I need to work up the nerve to do this in the near future on my new to me '04 with 57k miles. But every time I think about it I get anxious!! Local shop, who did the plugs on my '07 9 years ago, is quoting $461 + time for any broken plugs. Screw that!! Thinking I'm going to go with the stubby impact on a hot engine following FordTechMakuloco's advice in the video below. Seems to be the most successful way guys are getting them out without breaking. I feel like I'm ahead of the game a bit with less than 60k miles, but it's also on a 15 year old engine. So who knows how that'll effect things. I'm thinking the mileage will help with the carbon buildup, which is why these plugs stick and bind in the first place, but the age might work against me.
Last edited by BigTerp; 06-25-2019 at 01:02 PM.
#464
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
I need to work up the nerve to do this in the near future on my new to me '04 with 57k miles. But every time I think about it I get anxious!! Local shop, who did the plugs on my '07 9 years ago, is quoting $461 + time for any broken plugs. Screw that!! Thinking I'm going to go with the stubby impact on a hot engine following FordTechMakuloco's advice in the video below. Seems to be the most successful way guys are getting them out without breaking. I feel like I'm ahead of the game a bit with less than 60k miles, but it's also on a 15 year old engine. So who knows how that'll effect things. I'm thinking the mileage will help with the carbon buildup, which is why these plugs stick and bind in the first place, but the age might work against me.
#465
Senior Member
A few questions since you used the impact method as well. Planning on picking up the 20V Dewalt 3/8" drive impact for the job. It's a smaller profile impact, so it should work nicely in the tight spots especially for the rear most plugs on each bank. It provides 150 ft/lbs of torque. Powerful enough you think? Also planned on using the OTC spark plug socket for the job. With the Dewalt impact and the OTC socket that's 5-7/8" long will I have enough room for the rear plugs, or should I pick up a regular deep well 9/16 spark plug socket to free up some room?
#466
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
That would be nice. But I'm pretty sure the plugs have never been changed. Are you saying that in '04 they didn't use the 2 piece plugs?
A few questions since you used the impact method as well. Planning on picking up the 20V Dewalt 3/8" drive impact for the job. It's a smaller profile impact, so it should work nicely in the tight spots especially for the rear most plugs on each bank. It provides 150 ft/lbs of torque. Powerful enough you think? Also planned on using the OTC spark plug socket for the job. With the Dewalt impact and the OTC socket that's 5-7/8" long will I have enough room for the rear plugs, or should I pick up a regular deep well 9/16 spark plug socket to free up some room?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...BACEV7XG&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1
A few questions since you used the impact method as well. Planning on picking up the 20V Dewalt 3/8" drive impact for the job. It's a smaller profile impact, so it should work nicely in the tight spots especially for the rear most plugs on each bank. It provides 150 ft/lbs of torque. Powerful enough you think? Also planned on using the OTC spark plug socket for the job. With the Dewalt impact and the OTC socket that's 5-7/8" long will I have enough room for the rear plugs, or should I pick up a regular deep well 9/16 spark plug socket to free up some room?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...BACEV7XG&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1
The following users liked this post:
BigTerp (06-28-2019)
#467
Junior Member
Thank you OP kozal01. Success in removing all 8 plugs without breaking any. I followed your instructions, however I used a 18" breaker bar instead of impact driver. I did try a 3/8 impact wrench on first plug and it didn’t break plug loose.
On July 6, 2019 at 27.932 miles I removed SP-515 PZH14F and replaced with SP-546 PZK14F. I wasn't about to wait until FORD recommended miles and risk a broken plug that I couldn’t extract and then would require the head to be removed.
My truck
I bought my 2007 XLT Supercrew 5.4L May 18, 2019 with 27,305 miles, one owner regularly serviced at dealer in Florida.
SP-546 plugs from what I understand are still a 2 piece design but instead of being pressed together, they are now laser welded together and can withstand three times the sheer force of the old design.
Plug history from what I gathered - please provide correct info if mine is wrong.
SP-421 (PZT2FE) - first problem plug may have been?
SP-507 (PZT14F) - In Oct 2011 kozal01 removed SP-507; then he installed SP-515
SP-515 (PZH14F) - which I removed
SP-546 (PZK14F) - which I installed
On July 6, 2019 at 27.932 miles I removed SP-515 PZH14F and replaced with SP-546 PZK14F. I wasn't about to wait until FORD recommended miles and risk a broken plug that I couldn’t extract and then would require the head to be removed.
My truck
I bought my 2007 XLT Supercrew 5.4L May 18, 2019 with 27,305 miles, one owner regularly serviced at dealer in Florida.
SP-546 plugs from what I understand are still a 2 piece design but instead of being pressed together, they are now laser welded together and can withstand three times the sheer force of the old design.
Plug history from what I gathered - please provide correct info if mine is wrong.
SP-421 (PZT2FE) - first problem plug may have been?
SP-507 (PZT14F) - In Oct 2011 kozal01 removed SP-507; then he installed SP-515
SP-515 (PZH14F) - which I removed
SP-546 (PZK14F) - which I installed
Last edited by 2007XLT5.4; 07-08-2019 at 10:21 AM.
The following users liked this post:
kozal01 (07-16-2019)
#468
Senior Member
For those that have followed this method (impact on a warm engine) how warm/hot do you want the engine? I plan to do this on my '04 with 58k miles with what I'm assuming is original plugs very soon. I'll be doing this after running my kids to daycare (30-40 minute round trip). So on my arrival back home my truck will be well into operating temp range. Should I have at it right away? Let the engine cool down a bit for 30 or 45 minutes?
#469
Senior Member
What concentration of Seafoam are you guys running through before doing the plug change? One tank worth enough, or would a 2nd or even 3rd tank help to better loosen up the carbon on the plugs?
#470
Senior Member
Tomorrow is the day of truth for me. On my second tank of seafoam at 2oz per gallon to hopefully break up/loosen any carbon around the plugs. Truck in an '04 XLT with 59,600 miles. Going with a cordless 3/8 drive impact on a warm engine. Wish me luck!!!!