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Issue: How To: Spark plug change-2004-2008 5.4 3V V8
Find out how to make this difficult task manageable with more information about the following:
• Tool and parts needed
• Step-by-step directions
• Proper use of a lisle toolClick Here
Please Read the full discussion below
Find out how to make this difficult task manageable with more information about the following:
• Tool and parts needed
• Step-by-step directions
• Proper use of a lisle toolClick Here
Please Read the full discussion below
How To: Spark plug change-2004-2008 5.4 3V V8
#441
Senior Member
Turned out a little rougher than expected. Was hoping for the best but planned for the worst. Broke 7 out of 8 plugs. The Lisle tool saves lives, haha. I think my least favorite part was when the nut would spin on the ceramic, and you have to break the plug loose with a screwdriver and use a long needlenose to grab the plug. If they break like that on the back cylinders, have fun with that needlenose trying to grab the plug.
Here's what I tried: Hot engine, 1/2" Impact with 1/2" extensions to reducer to swivel spark plug socket. Started on Drivers side front. Broke first one, broke second one, third one zipped right out. Broke the back one, then went to the Passenger side. Broke the first one, then decided to try the soak method on the last 3. Cracked them loose a tiny bit, then sprayed carb cleaner and PB Blaster in the holes, it started boiling. So I let those 3 sit while I used the extractor on the other plugs. After a couple hours messing around with that, I went back to the 3 soaked plugs. Tried very carefully working the first one back and forth a ton, and thought maybe I had it, but nope, it was broke. So, hit the next one with the impact, yep broke as well. The last plug I couldn't get a good angle with the impact, so just worked it back a few times with the ratchet, then said screw it and just went for it. It broke too. Oh well.
I don't really have many tips. But just plan plenty of time, or plan to be down for a day or two in case you get frustrated and need a break. Make sure you have all sorts of extensions and adapters. You will want to have an extra long needlenose for sure. Good light is key to see what you can. Clean out very well with compressed air MULTIPLE times. Oh yeah, wanted to mention, when you extract the broken piece it can be VERY hard to get it off the extraction tip! I had to put the tool into my big vise, then heat the tip with a propane torch, then clamp a visegrip with good teeth onto the tip, then twist it off. Just to get plugs out took me about 4 hours.
I don't have the new plugs in yet, will be putting them in tonight. First, I'm going to use a micro camera to put down in the hole and take a look at my pistons the best I can. Plan is to do Phasers and all that jazz next and figure if I need to do any pistons I might as well use the cheap parts and dump the truck.
Here's what I tried: Hot engine, 1/2" Impact with 1/2" extensions to reducer to swivel spark plug socket. Started on Drivers side front. Broke first one, broke second one, third one zipped right out. Broke the back one, then went to the Passenger side. Broke the first one, then decided to try the soak method on the last 3. Cracked them loose a tiny bit, then sprayed carb cleaner and PB Blaster in the holes, it started boiling. So I let those 3 sit while I used the extractor on the other plugs. After a couple hours messing around with that, I went back to the 3 soaked plugs. Tried very carefully working the first one back and forth a ton, and thought maybe I had it, but nope, it was broke. So, hit the next one with the impact, yep broke as well. The last plug I couldn't get a good angle with the impact, so just worked it back a few times with the ratchet, then said screw it and just went for it. It broke too. Oh well.
I don't really have many tips. But just plan plenty of time, or plan to be down for a day or two in case you get frustrated and need a break. Make sure you have all sorts of extensions and adapters. You will want to have an extra long needlenose for sure. Good light is key to see what you can. Clean out very well with compressed air MULTIPLE times. Oh yeah, wanted to mention, when you extract the broken piece it can be VERY hard to get it off the extraction tip! I had to put the tool into my big vise, then heat the tip with a propane torch, then clamp a visegrip with good teeth onto the tip, then twist it off. Just to get plugs out took me about 4 hours.
I don't have the new plugs in yet, will be putting them in tonight. First, I'm going to use a micro camera to put down in the hole and take a look at my pistons the best I can. Plan is to do Phasers and all that jazz next and figure if I need to do any pistons I might as well use the cheap parts and dump the truck.
Last edited by besel53; 01-10-2018 at 10:40 AM.
#442
Yikes, I'm in the middle of a timing job, and conventional advice is to change the plugs while I'm already this far in. Trouble is, I have no idea if the plugs ever been changed, this is an 04, with 197,000 miles, so I hope they have, but can't tell. Eitherway, when I put the OTC socket on #5 and tried to break it loose, I couldn't believe how solid it was, and didn't want to break it because it's cold.
At this point, I'm actually thinking about leaving them in until after the timing is done, warming it up, and trying the warm engine with impact method. I've also heard using a length of 3/4 EMT conduit will help keep things tight, has anyone had success with that method, or have a picture of what they did?
At this point, I'm actually thinking about leaving them in until after the timing is done, warming it up, and trying the warm engine with impact method. I've also heard using a length of 3/4 EMT conduit will help keep things tight, has anyone had success with that method, or have a picture of what they did?
#443
Mark
iTrader: (1)
With almost 200 k on your motor .. I doubt they are original plugs.. that’s 3 times the recommendation for plug change.
#444
Any thoughts on best approach to prevent breaking when the engine is cold (I'm in Wisconsin, and my garage has next to no heat)?
#445
Mark
iTrader: (1)
As long as the original SP507’s are gone .. you won’t have a breakage problem.
#446
#447
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Those are the old SP507’s, they look too new to be coming out of a motor with 200K miles on it.
#448
Best guess is that they were replaced at some point, no idea when that happened, but ironically, yea, it does look clean.. Lisle kit ordered, was hoping I wouldn't need it, oh well..
#449
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Good luck buddy... keep us up to date on your progress.
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jaeckyl (03-25-2018)