wantitfixed

that is ordered the bur bit...not but bit

twist_off

No worries. Here's an active thread with a similar problem you're dealing with. Page two has info for using a tap to cut new threads in it. Good luck.

https://www.f150forum.com/f4/fix-sell-390293/

mneblett

Another set changed. 90K on original plugs (original owner). 7 whole, one broken (#2, second plug on passenger side)

My data:

cold engine, disconnected battery, removed engine computer (did not remove computer bracket or battery)

plugs cracked 1/8 turn then ~8-9 ml of Ford's carburetor cleaner (3 squirts from a 3 cc syringe -- helps to have a spouse who is a veterinarian )

left overnight to soak in

hand tools only --

next morning, blew out each hole to remove the carb cleaner (with a paper towel over the hole to absorb/control splatter)

per Ford procedure, tightened the 1/8 turn, then back-forth a few times to gradually work the plug loose

The Lisle 65600 kit instantly paid for itself when #2 broke off. I was blessed that (i) it was #2, so I had a straight shot in the first time I ever used the tool, and (ii) #4 and #8 didn't break!!

Almost no roughness on restart. Ran fine and no check engine light on the run up to the auto parts store to pick up an oil filter.

Thanks to all those that posted here!

BEHR91

Nice right up
I'm about to attempt this within next week or two so torn between MCs or Champion plugs after forum searching

mneblett

No question for me -- 515's. After reading enough stories about occasional problems with the Champions, and almost no one having issues with the 515's, I stuck with the Motorcrafts.

FWIW, drove ~525 mi. this weekend, 2005 F-150 SCrew, towing a light, open motorcycle trailer (convey with son moving his stuff back to campus). Even with speeds ~10 mph faster than usual (everyone was driving 75+ in Virginia!), gas mileage was notably higher 15.7-16.0, vs. 13.5-14.0. Quite surprised by the amount of the increase, was only expecting ~1 mpg.

F150Again

Hi Guys,

Changed plugs & coils in my 2006 5.4L 3V a couple of weeks ago. Thought I would post some of my experiences for those facing the job with your truck. Will not go into a long discussion of the prep method as there are plenty of posts and Youtube vids describing different approaches to the job.

Instead, I will write about tools used and experiences while doing the work. Starting with the tools, here is a list, all purchased from Amazon except where noted.

OTC 6900 Spark Plug socket
Werner AP-20 225 lb load capacity work platform
CTA Tools 2385 plug socket
Lisle 65700 Broken plug removal kit
OTC 6918 plug removal kit
Piece of 3/4 EMT conduit cut to length - local box store
Carb cleaner, PB blaster & sea foam - local Walmart

Tools already owned

Variety of ratchets, sockets & other hand tools
Magnetic part retriever
Electric air compressor
Inch-lb torque wrench with sufficient range: 12 inch-lb = 1 ft-lb
Shop vac with paper towel roll fine tip extension
Pvc pipe rachet/breaker bar extender

New parts:

MC SP515 plugs - Amazon
MSD 82438 COPs - Amazon
Anti Seize & Dielectric grease - Amazon

Some of you may have seen a Youtube vid of an invention (piece of pvc pipe) to aid in plug removal. This video did not describe the size and type of pvc pipe used and could not find any search info on it. Bought a short piece of 3/4 pvc water pipe that a test fit of OTC 6900 plug socket fit fine. Didn’t know dimensions of plug well, so tried it: walls too thick so wouldn’t fit. 3/4 inch EMT conduit is the answer. Perfect fit in the plug well and snug not tight fit for the plug socket. Could not have done the job without the Werner work platform. High enough to reach all plugs with enough room to move around for better angle when necessary. Working from the ground would have been a major PITA.

Removed battery cover (not battery), computer/bracket, couple of ground wires from firewall and #1 injector plug for better access. Did not move/disconnect anything else. Now for the fun part: removing the plugs. All 8 broke, 6 coming apart clean at the lower ground shield and inner porcelain making use of Lisle tool easy. The other 2 were a different story. #1 and #4 broke in such a way that only the hex thread nut and upper electrode came out. This left all the porcelain and lower tip still in the head. Have to say at this point I was thinking the worst. Options were not good: have truck towed to dealer for (probably) new heads or new engine, or sell truck as is for what it would bring. Neither option was acceptable. So, I kept at it. Poured some carb cleaner in the wells with the porcelain remaining, then dropped a hex tread nut in and carefully started threads by hand, then tightened close to torque spec, then backed out. After several rounds of this, to my surprise (amazement, mentally jumping up and down) the remaining porcelain broke off at the lower ground shield allowing Lisle tool to do its work. Same method worked to get #4 to the point of Lisle tool use.

By the way, after getting first plug end out with Lisle tool the treads on the extractor looked a little beat up. For the rest I loaded the threads up with chassis grease to hopefully protect the threads. Seemed to do the job as the threads held up for the entire job. The magnetic parts retriever is handy when hands and parts are slippery: strong enough to pull Lisle tool out of the well of hard to reach cylinders.

Recommend an air compressor as there was a lot of crap in the wells. After removing each plug tip with Lisle tool, alternated twice blowing (compressor) and sucking (shop vac) to hopefully remove anything that may have fallen into the cylinder. Did not use the OTC 6819 plug removal kit. It may have helped with the initial plug removal, however I did not read the instructions to learn its capabilities prior to starting the job. Once plugs broke, it was time for the Lisle tool. Entire job took most of 3 days, day 2 about 10-12 hours.

Truck runs great with (so far) no sign of misfire. Before the change did not use overdrive except on interstate due to bucking & shaking under load at 40-50 mph. Now no problem accelerating up incline in OD at around 45 mph. Can run in OD all day around town with no issues. I bought this truck in 2010 with 96,000 miles and it had the misfire then which at the time though was a transmission shudder. Prior owner probably traded it to avoid the plug change. I chose not to use that option as my truck is paid for, interior is clean and in good shape and other than a little body rust looks and runs great at 125,000 miles.

Hope some of this info helps.

BEHR91

I got all eight of mine out no problem took an hour or so but they all came out. I was also lucky and although they were about done it had once piece plugs in it. Changed Oil to a 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Craft as well. I was nervous as hell pulling first plug then when I got it out and saw they were one piece we went to town.

thehermitf150

2004 F 150 w 110K miles:


Getting ready to do mine this weekend Have the new motorocraft plugs and renting lisle tool ect...I think I am doing warm motor impact method with the carb cleaner trick too. Have pushed 2 tanks of seafoam decarb through and im ready to go all in

tcruz0004

Very nice writeup. I changed my plugs this past weekend and was lucky enough to have all 8 come out without any breaking. I read a few different posts/articles and watched a couple videos, and here are a few things I learned that may help someone reading:

- Overall these directions are great. If you follow them, you shouldn't have any problem. There wasn't much mention of the plugs on the drivers side. I only removed 1 vacuum line, but they were all basically accessable without any hassle.
- This is common sense to some, but make sure to use metric sockets. I tried to use a 9/32 standard in place of the 7mm and it was just a hair too big for 1 bolt on the COPs. The 7mm fit perfectly.
- I recommend this tool: 9/16-inch 6" Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Socket ARES 70231 Ford Spark Plug Removal Tool. It's cheap and works well.
- Also grab 3 inch, 6 inch, and 9 inch extensions for your socket wrench, if that's what you're using.
- Ford recommends doing a 1/8 turn on each plug then introducing carb cleaner, letting it set for 15 minutes, then proceeding with the removal. I personally recommend PB Blaster, then Carb Cleaner, set for 15 minutes, then 1/8 turn, set, and proceed. Mine all came out very easily after the initial turn.
- For what it' worth I used a shop vac with a nozzle attachment to suck up any debris after an initial blast from the compressed air. I also tried to get up some of the PB Blaster and Carb Cleaner as you don't want too much of that in your cylinders either.

The process was daunting, and could have been done quicker, but I didn't but a broken plug extractor so I took my time. Good luck!

besel53

Well, here we go.... After watching video after video and reading thread after thread, I'm ready to change plugs on my '04. She's at 142K miles and factory plugs. Got my new plugs, a special swivel spark plug socket, my new impact, and a lisle kit a buddy sold me for $25.

I think I'm going to go at it hot without cracking the plug loose first and letting lubricant sit in there. As fast as possible. If I break the first couple, I may re-evaluate and try the crack it loose and soak method, then hit with the impact after a little bit.

Wish me luck!