HOW TO: Diagnose your 4x4 system. ESOF
09-07-2018, 01:51 PM
#431
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IIRC, there is also a relay on the driver side fender well in a small box, I think one of two relays in that box, that controls the solenoid. It itself is controlled by the switch. It should be down near the ABS control module (will have all the brake lines running into/out of it). You may want to check that.
09-07-2018, 06:06 PM
#432
THE MOTORCRAFT SOLENOID FIXED IT! Haha sorry for all caps but I’m excited. I’ll continue to monitor it but I went back and forth between 4x4 and 2wd several times and it unlocked each time. Drove around the block and went into 4x4 for a short distance and after switching back to 2wd I could hear the transfer case and the hubs disengage! Thank you John for all of the help. Crazy that it turned out to be just the brand of solenoid! I will never buy a Dorman part ever again. Straight OEM from here on out. Thanks again all!!
09-07-2018, 06:12 PM
#433
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LOL, sounds like a 2 beer night!! That's great news, very glad ya got it fixed. I myself got bit by Dorman a couple times, never again. You can get a bad part from anyone, but Dorman it happens more than it should.
Enjoy it Brad.
Enjoy it Brad.
09-07-2018, 06:15 PM
#434
Next challenge is to get my money back from O’Reilly for the bad Dorman. Lol
09-07-2018, 06:28 PM
#435
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johnday in BFE (09-07-2018)
10-25-2018, 06:59 PM
#437
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I'm having all kinds of $wd trouble with my 2011 Expedition. So, I was driving on a rainy day in the back country when I made a wrong turn. I made a u-turn and backed the rear wheels slightly off the road. The rears started to sink a little when I went to pull out and they just sat there and spun (in 4A). So now I try 4H, surely with the fronts on a bit of wet pavement it'll pull out, right? Nope. 4H and 4L were just 2wd with the extra weight to carry around.
So I start doing the rounds of testing. Jack the front up and test that both IWEs are working when motor is off, motor is on, in 2H, 4A, 4H, 4L. They're engaged when they're supposed to be and not when they aren't.
Next I check to see if the transfer case motor is working. I hear it click when switching from 4A to 4H and again going into 4L. In 4L I have the low gearing so I know that the t-case is being switched. Next I put the whole thing on jack stands and run the truck in gear. In 4A it never really engages the front wheels. Every once in a while it will slightly turn them. I'm thinking maybe it's an electronic module issue with deciding when to engage the t-case. So I try 4H and it's the same damn thing. Backs are spinning and the fronts barely move at all. I thought that this is a mechanical lock, but maybe not? I'm not sure how Ford's transfer case works (all I I know is that it doesn't work).
I'm stumped at this point and not really looking forward to taking it to the dealer (had this t-case rebuilt and electronic module replaced 2x already). Replaced the passenger IWE. Now this.
So I start doing the rounds of testing. Jack the front up and test that both IWEs are working when motor is off, motor is on, in 2H, 4A, 4H, 4L. They're engaged when they're supposed to be and not when they aren't.
Next I check to see if the transfer case motor is working. I hear it click when switching from 4A to 4H and again going into 4L. In 4L I have the low gearing so I know that the t-case is being switched. Next I put the whole thing on jack stands and run the truck in gear. In 4A it never really engages the front wheels. Every once in a while it will slightly turn them. I'm thinking maybe it's an electronic module issue with deciding when to engage the t-case. So I try 4H and it's the same damn thing. Backs are spinning and the fronts barely move at all. I thought that this is a mechanical lock, but maybe not? I'm not sure how Ford's transfer case works (all I I know is that it doesn't work).
I'm stumped at this point and not really looking forward to taking it to the dealer (had this t-case rebuilt and electronic module replaced 2x already). Replaced the passenger IWE. Now this.
11-02-2018, 02:08 PM
#438
Senior Member
Great thread read through all 44 pages as well as several other IWE threads.
2018 f150 Lariat 8700 miles with 2" icon coilovers installed this summer 3700miles on level. Didn't need to remove hubs or loosen axle nut to install level. The front left wheel makes a low grinding noise only when 4H or 4A is engaged pretty much constantly. Also get random clunk from drivers wheel going straight or turning wet/dry pavement. Took to ford as well as self diagnosis, truck is producing plenty of vacuum. Hubs are disengaged in 2H and Engaged in 4A or 4H. Ford "could not reproduce" the low grind or clunk even though I hear it all the time. Problem is the clunk is random i.e. I can get it to do it 3 times in a row doing same think like going reverse then forward left turn but then it just stops doing it. I also pulled the plug on the front diff and oil is as expected no metal.
Seems to me that the drivers side IWE is not fully engaging. Like to get others thoughts on how to diagnose a partially engaged IWE. Perhaps I am going to have to take the whole front end apart and look at it and if there is metal in there take it back to ford and tell them to take it apart and fix it. Wish there was a way to disengage hubs but run in 4H to see if it is drivetrain or hub noise, but 99% sure it is the drivers hub.
thanks
2018 f150 Lariat 8700 miles with 2" icon coilovers installed this summer 3700miles on level. Didn't need to remove hubs or loosen axle nut to install level. The front left wheel makes a low grinding noise only when 4H or 4A is engaged pretty much constantly. Also get random clunk from drivers wheel going straight or turning wet/dry pavement. Took to ford as well as self diagnosis, truck is producing plenty of vacuum. Hubs are disengaged in 2H and Engaged in 4A or 4H. Ford "could not reproduce" the low grind or clunk even though I hear it all the time. Problem is the clunk is random i.e. I can get it to do it 3 times in a row doing same think like going reverse then forward left turn but then it just stops doing it. I also pulled the plug on the front diff and oil is as expected no metal.
Seems to me that the drivers side IWE is not fully engaging. Like to get others thoughts on how to diagnose a partially engaged IWE. Perhaps I am going to have to take the whole front end apart and look at it and if there is metal in there take it back to ford and tell them to take it apart and fix it. Wish there was a way to disengage hubs but run in 4H to see if it is drivetrain or hub noise, but 99% sure it is the drivers hub.
thanks
11-02-2018, 03:39 PM
#439
Mark
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Not sure why you are even messing with it.. it’s under warranty.. make Ford fix it, have the service manager ride with you or drive it.
11-02-2018, 04:03 PM
#440
Senior Member
I could literally answer almost any post with that answer. Not helpful to me or anyone else when trying to diagnose a problem. But thanks anyway.