HOW TO: Diagnose your 4x4 system. ESOF
06-16-2018, 03:12 PM
#361
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Sounds like you found the bad actor. Check your hoses for cracks, dryrot, etc.
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YOMAN (06-16-2018)
06-16-2018, 04:42 PM
#362
If you are attaching the vacuum pump directly to the fitting on the IWE Actuator and it won't hold vacuum without leaking, that could be your main culprit. It won't be holding the vacuum steady while driving in 2WD either and could be lowering the overall vacuum of the entire system. You should be able to pump it up and walk away and have lunch with no loss of vacuum when you get back. If it's leaking while driving it could be constantly locking/unlocking or maybe not completely unlocking or who knows what.
Last edited by Joe F; 06-16-2018 at 05:02 PM.
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YOMAN (06-16-2018)
06-16-2018, 10:52 PM
#363
Thanks...
Any tip or advice on how to check the tubes for leaking ??
ill try check value first before order actuator....If it didnt help with check value then I’ll order actuator...sooo Is doorman brand is good to go??
found amazon for actuator doorman 80-90 bucks
Thanks
Any tip or advice on how to check the tubes for leaking ??
ill try check value first before order actuator....If it didnt help with check value then I’ll order actuator...sooo Is doorman brand is good to go??
found amazon for actuator doorman 80-90 bucks
Thanks
06-17-2018, 06:53 PM
#364
Again, if your actuator can't hold vacuum with the vacuum pump attached directly to its fitting, it needs to be replaced regardless of whether or not there are any leaks elsewhere or not. That leaking actuator could be the only issue, or just one of the issues, but it IS an issue since it's leaking. Suggest replacing it and see how it goes after that. If you want to get a general idea of whether your lines are cracked/leaking. Start up your truck, set the switch to 2WD and then pull the vacuum line off the actuator and attach it to a vacuum gauge to see if it is strong and steady and is not wavering around, also you can check to see if it is the same at both wheels as it is at the solenoid and/or check valve connections before the lines.
When my one of my original Ford actuators failed, I went ahead and replaced both sides with the Amazon Dorman versions and they have been completely trouble free so far. Dorman makes quality stuff in my opinion. Good luck!
When my one of my original Ford actuators failed, I went ahead and replaced both sides with the Amazon Dorman versions and they have been completely trouble free so far. Dorman makes quality stuff in my opinion. Good luck!
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YOMAN (06-17-2018)
06-17-2018, 09:05 PM
#365
Again, if your actuator can't hold vacuum with the vacuum pump attached directly to its fitting, it needs to be replaced regardless of whether or not there are any leaks elsewhere or not. That leaking actuator could be the only issue, or just one of the issues, but it IS an issue since it's leaking. Suggest replacing it and see how it goes after that. If you want to get a general idea of whether your lines are cracked/leaking. Start up your truck, set the switch to 2WD and then pull the vacuum line off the actuator and attach it to a vacuum gauge to see if it is strong and steady and is not wavering around, also you can check to see if it is the same at both wheels as it is at the solenoid and/or check valve connections before the lines.
When my one of my original Ford actuators failed, I went ahead and replaced both sides with the Amazon Dorman versions and they have been completely trouble free so far. Dorman makes quality stuff in my opinion. Good luck!
When my one of my original Ford actuators failed, I went ahead and replaced both sides with the Amazon Dorman versions and they have been completely trouble free so far. Dorman makes quality stuff in my opinion. Good luck!
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YOMAN (06-18-2018)
06-24-2018, 02:19 PM
#369
Well, replaced front passenger. I saw there was a bit water in old actuator.
it’s Strange now....
From stop to 60 mph, if I baby my truck like old man driving then It’s smooth.....if I drive more than normal...till 45-50 mph it’s making some steady vibrate on the floor, gas pedal, I turned 4 wd on, the vibrate disappeared.
also so when I slow down from 70 to 50, it came back and make some vibrate...
I removed the tube from actuator and plugged into the vaccum gauge showed hold 5 on both side psi(?)
both side , I plugged into acturators they both showed hold
WTF?
pinion bearing or something ?? It doesn’t make sense cuz I turned on 4 wheel drive it’s smooth, no vibrate
should I go ahead try replace front driver side actuator ???
Maybe its wheel hub that causes vibrate?? Argh LOL
it drove me nuts.
help
it’s Strange now....
From stop to 60 mph, if I baby my truck like old man driving then It’s smooth.....if I drive more than normal...till 45-50 mph it’s making some steady vibrate on the floor, gas pedal, I turned 4 wd on, the vibrate disappeared.
also so when I slow down from 70 to 50, it came back and make some vibrate...
I removed the tube from actuator and plugged into the vaccum gauge showed hold 5 on both side psi(?)
both side , I plugged into acturators they both showed hold
WTF?
pinion bearing or something ?? It doesn’t make sense cuz I turned on 4 wheel drive it’s smooth, no vibrate
should I go ahead try replace front driver side actuator ???
Maybe its wheel hub that causes vibrate?? Argh LOL
it drove me nuts.
help
Last edited by YOMAN; 06-24-2018 at 03:58 PM.
07-20-2018, 12:34 AM
#370
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Hey guys. I'm having an issue and seems to be some pretty knowledgeable folks in here so i'm hoping you can help. I jacked the truck up to diagnose the IWE actuators on each side. Results are as follows:
Passenger Side - 2wd (CV Shaft Spins with wheel)
4wd (CV shaft spins with wheel, but I can turn continuously. Wheel does not lock)
Driver Side - 2wd (CV Shaft does not spin)
4wd (CV shaft spins with wheel, but I can turn continuously. Wheel does not lock)
I need to check and see if my solenoid has been replaced, but I did just have all hoses and check valves replaced. It would appear as though the passenger IWE is bad for sure. Driver seems good, but will probably replace anyway. However, the problem I'm stumped on is why when I'm in 4wd can I continuously turn the wheel? Every video I've seen, the wheels lock when trying to turn in 4wd. When I am driving, I can tell a noticeable difference in gear noise when I cycle between 2wd and 4wd. 2wd is loud and I can hear gears spinning. 4AUTO, things get quiet and sound normal. Does this sound like it could be my solenoid and IWE?
Any idea as to what is going on?
Thanks
Passenger Side - 2wd (CV Shaft Spins with wheel)
4wd (CV shaft spins with wheel, but I can turn continuously. Wheel does not lock)
Driver Side - 2wd (CV Shaft does not spin)
4wd (CV shaft spins with wheel, but I can turn continuously. Wheel does not lock)
I need to check and see if my solenoid has been replaced, but I did just have all hoses and check valves replaced. It would appear as though the passenger IWE is bad for sure. Driver seems good, but will probably replace anyway. However, the problem I'm stumped on is why when I'm in 4wd can I continuously turn the wheel? Every video I've seen, the wheels lock when trying to turn in 4wd. When I am driving, I can tell a noticeable difference in gear noise when I cycle between 2wd and 4wd. 2wd is loud and I can hear gears spinning. 4AUTO, things get quiet and sound normal. Does this sound like it could be my solenoid and IWE?
Any idea as to what is going on?
Thanks
