Army Strong

Another STICKY! Come on Mods...forum members shouldn't have to search for the most viewed and highly rated threads. They should be a STICKY.

abgiles

Gonna give this a try here shortly. 2005 5.4 3v with 113k miles on it. Owned for 3 years. Had 37k on it when I bought it, and a K&N filter (been swapped out to high flow dry one for a year now).

Having the following codes:

P0120 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance

P0174 - System too lean (Bank 2)

P2104 - Throttle Actuation Control System Forced Idle

P2112 - Throttle Actuation Control System Stuck Closed

We'll see if this fixes the issues, or if I have more to deal with.

Anyone with other thoughts on if this is it, feel free to chime in while I get this done.

Thanks for the great post!!

abgiles

Cleaned both the throttle body (the lower and butterfly were nasty as hell), and the MAF.

Did the restart according to the directions, then went on the drive. Much better throttle response.

30 miles to work this morning, and no hesitations, cleaner idle, and much better performance.

Driving 250 miles this afternoon, and will post mpg improvements, if any.

Thanks again for this post!

steve392

glad to hear it worked out. One thing I wish I had done to my 98 when i had it was clean the tb out by removing it and even the intake manifold. 14 years of driving im sure built up some lovely goo.

08silverbullet

Cleaned mine too truck works great on stock but in lvl 2 I get a code now not sure what's going on

recceboy

Followed this thread to fix my little throttle body problem on my 2005 F150 4.6 V8 Flair side. Followed step by step, finished in under 20 mins, including road test, works just like knew, well done.

Cheers

Anthony

ProZach

Glad I could be of service

bullwinkle89

This was a wonderful guide and I feel like it was really easy. However, I'm really nervous now. I hope I didnt goof. Total amateur mechanic here. I was using a cleaning brush from Ace hardware and throttle body cleaner. Turns out the metal rod scratched my butterfly valve as you can see. Is this going to be a problem? I know the teflon coating is somewhat important.

I also was a dumbass and set my throttle body on a damn coffee filter atop the pavement. Looks like I marred the inside circumference on the bottom face of the throttle body. Again, have I screwed myself? Do I just bite the bullet and replace it?

Pics are included.

Halfloop

I don't know if some have solved their stalling rough idle problem but mine was also the canister vent solenoid and the vacuum hose that connected it.

This solenoid vents your fuel canister and mine would get stuck open at idle. It should close. This would cause major stalling.

The vacuum hose that connects it to the intake was also bad, almost crumbled in my hand. I replaced it.

To test if this is your problem remove the vacuum hose from the solenoid located on the firewall (drivers side high) and plug it. Instant remedy for me. I was going to replace the solenoid but it was $60 so I lubed the solenoid with Kroil oil since it was the seat that was sticking. No problems since.

Throttle body and TPS is next, thanks for the guide.

Note on TPS screws, they should be heated to keep them from snapping. Ford used to much locktite.

Audiomediocrity

My 2004 with 5.4 has 155k on it. It has been a great truck. The coldest days of the year came, and the battery went, and (as I knew it had) the alternator also went. I had pulled the battery to take home and charge it, and it was bad, so the truck was without power long enought to completely clear the pcm.

The truck was having a horrible time after this, I thought the alternator was flaky, putting out 15.0 volts at times. I pulled codes and got P0351 (pending, and was BS), P0622 - vehicle having trouble controlling alternator charge, P1000 - sets after a battery pull until enough start/drive cycles complete, B1318 - IDK, and U1900 network communication problem. I believe the high voltage was causing some of my trouble, possibly the P0351.

I pulled the battery again, because the battery pull had occurred before swapping out the bad alternator. Charging now maxed out at 14.7 and my only code was P1000.

Anyway, the truck still idled horribly, and had no codes pending besides the P1000.

I cleaned my Throttle body per this procedure and had the computer relearn the idle. The truck is running awesome. Thanks ProZach

The reason I am adding on to this old thread:

I have had a transmission problem bothering me, bad enough to research when I would be replacing or rebuilding the transmission. This repair also fixed it. The description below is to lead others to this link.

I thought my torque converter was possibly failing. I had planned to drain and refill it, but apparently the 04's don't have a plug on the torque converter.

My truck didn't feel like it was slipping, it wasn't like that. It was more like a high stall converter. Running, 40 to 60 mph, if I let off the gas, I had to carefully ease back on to the gas pedal, or it slammed. I got good at this, but sometimes I would forget. It was like a nuetral drop at 50 mph. Obviously not good.

Cleaning my throttle body seemed to synch up my engine to transmission, and throttle response. The transmission hasn't felt this good in 50k miles.

After dropping $350 into a battery and alternator, and pulling into my driveway that night with my truck sputtering, I felt sick... Trying to decide how much more $ to dump into the old girl.

I found this write up, and $5 and less than an hour fixed the problem, and as a bonus fixed my transmission / torque converter problem.

Number20- I'm sure you found it by now or sold the truck, sounds like an air leak... Most likely where you were, so check hoses, or possibly the TB gasket, and verify the filter housing to TB seal is on properly.