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Engine & Drivetrain "How-To" articles pertaining to the Engine and Drivetrain of an F150 (including Exhaust)

Change oil

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Old 12-12-2012, 10:23 PM   #91
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does ford manual say anything about using a new "crush washer" on the drain plug every oil change?

i know honda does and i failed to replace the little washer one time and my next oil change cost me 7000 bucks!
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Old 02-04-2013, 10:28 PM   #92
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Originally Posted by HouTxEngr View Post
Pictures are great. Here's a full description of a 2010 F150 XLT 4.6 oil change:

- Using a set of ramps, pull the truck up on top and lock the emergency brake. Put xmission in park.
- I've installed a oil pan drain valve, so after putting the catch pan under this valve, I open the valve and drain the pan.
- Using a 1-qt zip-loc plastic bag, I surround the lossened oil filter, then remove it (the bag catches the oil).
- I put ~1/3 qt of oil in the FL-820 filter, then screw it on hand tight. Using a filter wrench, I tighten one full turn.
- Close the oil pan drain valve.
- Pull all the stuff out from under the truck.
- Following the book, I put 6 qts of 5W-30 full syn (Wal-mart Super-Tech).
- To fill the oil filter, I press the throttle to the floor and crank for 10 seconds, then go ahead and start the engine and roll it off the stands.

Oil change costs me $23. total, and I KNOW it was done right!
It's not really necessary to put the oil in the filter and do the crank for 10 second thing. There is enough lubricant in the engine to protect it while it is restarted and fills the filter. Certainly no worse than the dry cranking. You would also want to oil the gasket on the filter. Finally, when you spin on the new filter, forget the full turn with a wrench. As you spin it on, it only need 3/4 turn after it makes contact. Over tightening can cause it to leak and a dry gasket can cause it to weld itself to the fitting.
Look up to learn more than you ever wanted to know about oil.
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:26 PM   #93
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Does anybody know the bolt size for a 2006 oil drain? I don't have metric and need to borrow one. Thanks-
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Old 08-26-2014, 01:18 AM   #94
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Old 09-12-2014, 05:36 AM   #95
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I just did my second oil change on my 2014 XLT 5.0. AT 5000 miles now.

I installed a fumoto valve this time, been using them on all my vehicles for years.

I stick with motorcraft filters.

I can get the oil changed in about 10 minutes.
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Old 09-12-2014, 05:50 AM   #96
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I did my first oil change at about 2000 miles . The dealer told me I could do it at 5000 but I thought that was too long. Picked my truck up the 23 rd of June with 46 miles on it, as of today it has 4900 miles
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Old 09-29-2014, 09:28 AM   #97
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Originally Posted by blackbetty View Post
first run your truck for about 10 mins to get the oil warm and able to flow better.

raise your truck and get a drip pan, to catch the oil...

remove the plug in your oil pan as shown here...

then let it all drain out, preferably into a strainer to check for excessive metal fragments for signs of wear

then plug it up, move to the oil filter and remove it with the drain pan again. when installing the new one, take some old oil and lube up the gasket, never is it a good idea to install a dry gasket on a oil filter.

install your filter to a turn past hand tight.

fill your engine with synthentic oil as required to the manufacturer's capacities, 6/7 quarts depending on year and size of motor.

check for leaks over the next two days....and thats about it...
Two things that are wrong here: Filter should be spun on until the gasket touches and then tightened 1 full turn (or whatever amount of turns it says on the filter).

NOT HAND TIGHT AND THEN 1 FULL TURN!!! You will have trouble for sure next time if you do that.

The oil filter should at least have had some oil poured into it.

I cant believe only 1 person noticed this!

I'm a red seal mechanic, and have much experience in this department.

Last edited by tanked_darren; 09-29-2014 at 11:30 PM. Reason: Grammer, forgot something.
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