Budget by-pass oil filter system
05-03-2012, 10:14 AM
#31
Personally I would have dumped the oil and started over just because of the silicon. Iron should trend with wear, but you can see the silicon is slightly excellerating that wear. TBN stayed in a good range though with the 1 qt change. I'd probably go with dumping it all when you see contaminates reach a certain point. Seems to be working for you though. Those Amsoil Ea filters aren't cheap though.
The Ea filters are definitely not cheap. My first order was for a bunch of Ea standard filters (I think 5) - only to realize that the by-pass kit takes a different size standard filter than the one that would normally go on the truck without a by-pass system installed. Those extra filters are still sitting on my shelf because I forget to bring them with me when I go to pick up the extra supplies every 6 months or so.
For me, I justify the added cost based on getting 250K out of a truck. If that gets me 6 months more life out of a vehicle, then that's 6 months of new truck payments I'm saving.
05-27-2014, 11:05 PM
#32
HouTxEngr
Thread Starter
Update: I've put over 100K on the 2010 4.6, so it was time for me to move on. I was never happy knowing the motor was a reman, but it proved to be reliable and got steady 19\23 mpg. By-pass filter got put back on after the warranty ran out and it kept my oil changes to 25K and the by-pass filter change at 50K. I tried the oil lab service once, it told me the same as looking at the oil...looks good.
I decided to replace the 2010 with a 2014 F150 5.0 after driving the Chevy & Dodge. Wife liked the Ford too. We take trips in the F150 instead of her 2014 Escape SE 2.0 EB.
Lesson learned in this exercise: it was worth my efforts to put a by-pass system on for me, as it extended the timeframe between changes. Even at 25K, the oil "looked" clean. I cut a by-pass filter apart...it was CERTAINLY doing its job as it was BLACK. But, if you're not a DIY'r, this "fun" is probably not worth your time.
I decided to replace the 2010 with a 2014 F150 5.0 after driving the Chevy & Dodge. Wife liked the Ford too. We take trips in the F150 instead of her 2014 Escape SE 2.0 EB.
Lesson learned in this exercise: it was worth my efforts to put a by-pass system on for me, as it extended the timeframe between changes. Even at 25K, the oil "looked" clean. I cut a by-pass filter apart...it was CERTAINLY doing its job as it was BLACK. But, if you're not a DIY'r, this "fun" is probably not worth your time.
Last edited by HouTxEngr; 05-27-2014 at 11:12 PM. Reason: spelling
07-17-2021, 01:14 PM
#34
Senior Member
I was due for an oil change so I took it to the next level. I drained off 2 litres of warm oil thru my Fumoto valve. Added a can of Liqui Moly Pro line Engine flush. Let it idle for 20 minutes. Drained hot oil and flush solution. It was thin but not water thin just more like thin, hot oil. Removed my 2 Fram XG8A filters.
I had a modified bolt made into a nipple for one of the filter locations like the OP did. It has a 1/16" dia hole in it. I dimpled the threads so it would "bite" into the aluminum housing. I also used a small amount of red lock tite on the threads after spraying everything down with brake cleaner.
I installed a filled (1040 ml) Wix 51641 bypass filter on the new nipple.
I installed a Car Quest (Wix) 51515 (equiv to XG8A) filled (650 ml) on the full flow nipple.
Added 6 litres to the sump.
Started my truck up. No leaks. The 51515 filter heated up quickly and the by pass 51641 was cold (as expected as the flow is very low).
My plan is to change the full flow filter at approx. 7000 - 10000 kms with a filled filter. The bypass filter should be good for 40000 kms similar to Amsoils bypass filters. I'm also considering an oil analysis.
Sorry no pics. The bypass filter is a larger dia but there is still clearance between the two filters. The bypass filter is also taller than the Fram or Wix full flow filters but again no interference in my installation.