anthonyrideout

Hi all. I just wanted to say that I followed the instructions in this thread and successfully changed out all 8 spark plugs and ignition coils on my white 2000 Ford F150 V8 5.4 Litre engine. For the most part everything was straightforward and went as expected.

I used a variety of socket extensions and swivel/universal joints to complete the job. The 3rd from the front drivers side coil was a bit of a challenge to get out and in because of the fuel rail - but with some patience it can be done without having to fumble with the fuel rail.

I only removed the throttle body cover, and the steering fluid container (which stood in place without screws). I also unplugged the PCV valve hose and pushed out of the way.

This job is indeed doable, by anyone, if you have the right tools. Good quality sockets, extensions, and joints are a must if you are applying torque - as I broke a cheap extension when putting a plug back in. I picked up a manual torque wrench for about $25 bucks from Canadian Tire - the higher end automatic/click style one didn't work well and the low range torque settings aren't something these high cost wrenches do well.
I applied 32 lbs of torque to each plug. They were all gapped as per suggested in this thread.

I picked up the coils and spark plugs from www.freeshippingautoparts.com - they sell on ebay. My total cost for the parts including shipping to my door (in Calgary, Alberta) was US $161.92. My cost for the parts (socket set, extension bars, torque wrench, gap tool) was about $150 @ Canadian Tire.

So in summary - for about $300 + my personal labor (about 3.5 hours) a plug & coil change is doable and quite a smoking deal. Canadian Tire gave me a quote for over $1000 to do the the job with parts. SouthPro Automotive - who I personally like and trust - quoted 3 hours labor @ $120 an hour - if I supplied the parts.

As mentioned in this thread - this particualr Ford did not have any issues with the plugs breaking, or getting stuck. I can't however offer you any warranty or guarantees - as each and vehicle is different - even if it's the same make, model, year, type.

The misfiring is now gone, and the throttle response and overall power is greatly improved. I am noticing also that the fuel mileage is a lot better.

Cheers,
Anthony

kdcntn

I was looking on ehow and didn't find anything as good as this. I do wish you would have taken a few extra seconds to spell out the words you abreviated, ie: IAT, MAF sensor, and COP. I can guess Mass Air Flow, but have no idea what those other two are. Lucky for the internet, huh?
Also, I am still not sure exactly where the COP is. I bought the plugs today and will just have to get in there and start finding some clips I guess.
Great explanantion of the process though! Thanks!

My03fx4

Cops stand for coils on plugs. And iat is the intake air temperature sensor.

otto457

The Coil On Plugs are located kinda where the name implys. They sit on top of the plug and are held in by the 7 mm bolt. They are like the old plug wire and distributor combined.

I'm unable to go back and edit the original post or I would go back and change the abbreviations.

shane93nc

Great write up. I have an 01 Screw with the 4.6. A few weeks ago it started to run really rough and wasn't showing any codes. I parked it and did some research on changing the pligs myself. I then went outside a few days ago and decided to try and and see how easy/hard it would be for me to get at them. I started on number 4 plug and was abble to get the COP off but I couldn't find my universal joint for the plug and extention to get it out. I then decided to take a good look at the drivers side. I nocticed the number 7 COP is right under the fuel rail. I figured no way was I going to attempt this. So I called a few shops and got prices for labor being anywhere from 250 -350 bucks not including parts. And thats if they didn;t break and plugs. But after reading this thread and knowing my truck/engine didn't have a problem with plugs breaking then I am going to try it again this weekend. I will report back. I did find one guy who said he would change the fuel filter,air filter,change plugs, and clean the fuel injection system for less then $325 and thats with parts included. So if I find it still above my head then I will be taking it to him.

westflgator

Thanks so much for this tutorial, this is just what I needed...

Sac

The Triton engine is new to me. I'm buying a 2000 with a "stripped thread on a spark plug" problem. I'm planning on changing all the plugs, but need suggestions on the stripped one. I haven't even seen the truck (other than photos) and this was the reason given for the low price from a dealer. He just wants rid of it and won't get anything at auction. It's a seven cylinder... I've looked at several kits to repair the thread and after reading a lot of posts, still could use some advise on the best one to use??

Any help would be most appreciated.
Sac

bigray327

Ford makes a special tool to remove broken off spark plugs. It's called a and is available to rent at Auto Zone. It's not easy, but it can be done. The biggest issue is stuff breaking and falling into the cylinder, which is a bad thing.

That said, the two-piece spark plugs only came about in the 3 valve engines, so your situation is probably more severe than what I mentioned above. You're probably looking at having to remove the entire head on that side, and remove the plug from the bottom, if the Lyle tool doesn't work. That's a ton of work (front cover removal, timing chains, etc). So to summarize, I would not buy that truck in that condition. Have the seller fix the broken plug and then buy it. He likely knows that you're looking at big bucks to have it fixed professionally.

Sac

Note, I said CHEAP. I could change the entire engine and still be a couple thousand ahead of it's current value. I don't really think it's that bad. I do have a bore scope, so I can have a look inside too.

For those interested in cheap bore scopes, I got a "supereyes" Chinese off ebone for $35.00 (digital microscope). I hooked it up to a lap top computer and it isn't too bad. I've even looked down rifle barrels with it.

otto457

Look into Timeserts. They are the only good way to fix the ejected/stripped plug and torque the rest to the higher spec.