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2011+ Engine Related Questions Sub-Forum to the new engines that debuted in 2011.

Yet Another Shudder Saga

Old 05-29-2017, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by lrschoen
Interesting. I'll try that today. Thanks
Tried the KAM reset then aggressive driving; seemed to bring back the studder even quicker, even more violent too. Heading to the Ford dealership tomorrow, ugh.
Old 05-31-2017, 08:23 AM
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Follow-up: Ford's diagnosis was a bad connector to the TCBP sensor, a sensor I had thought was one of 3 "MAP" sensors, this one located on the intake piping just before the throttle body. They wanted $450 for the repair; instead I bought the pigtail connector at the parts desk for $50 and soldered it in myself. So far, rock solid, no shudder. Fingers crossed it stays this way!
Old 05-31-2017, 09:39 AM
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Good deal
Old 06-04-2017, 02:12 PM
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i had a shudder after I changed the coil packs and I discovered that it messed up when I disconnected the battery to clean all the corrosion around the posts. I had to reprogram the computer. I found the steps on this forum and so far its been working fine.. I had a shudder in 3rd and 6th gear around 1800-2100 rpm.. after I followed the sequence it went away.
Old 06-06-2017, 08:58 AM
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Keep in mind that another way to shudder proof your ecoboost is 30k mile spark plug change intervals and maintaining a .030 gap. Plus, the intercooler weep hole prevents any condensation induced misfire.
Old 04-12-2018, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Bravo3eco
Keep in mind that another way to shudder proof your ecoboost is 30k mile spark plug change intervals and maintaining a .030 gap. Plus, the intercooler weep hole prevents any condensation induced misfire.
I just changed plugs on my 2010 5.4 and gasped them at .041 did I miss something? .030?
Old 04-13-2018, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by NoreignsF150
I just changed plugs on my 2010 5.4 and gasped them at .041 did I miss something? .030?
This only applies to the ecoboost.

Originally Posted by lrschoen
Follow-up: Ford's diagnosis was a bad connector to the TCBP sensor, a sensor I had thought was one of 3 "MAP" sensors, this one located on the intake piping just before the throttle body. They wanted $450 for the repair; instead I bought the pigtail connector at the parts desk for $50 and soldered it in myself. So far, rock solid, no shudder. Fingers crossed it stays this way!
I'm curious to know how they diagnosed this and what lead them to even look there? Any ideas?
Old 04-13-2018, 07:36 PM
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This is EXCELLENT INFORMATION, finally read something usefully.


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