What oil do you use in your Ecoboost?
#31
Yes. Just letting you know that the reason to choice either of those is the HTO-06 spec not the lesser Ford spec which you referred too.
Nothing wrong with Mobil One, I use their gear oil and synthetic grease for my Polaris RZR, but for my truck and tractors I use Shell products- Rotella for the farm equipment and Pennzoil Platinum for the truck and car.
Nothing wrong with Mobil One, I use their gear oil and synthetic grease for my Polaris RZR, but for my truck and tractors I use Shell products- Rotella for the farm equipment and Pennzoil Platinum for the truck and car.
#32
Senior Member
Don't know how I can trust an oil who puts purple unnecessary dyes in their oils and expect them to be the best, just my opinion.
#33
Junior Member
amsoil signature series
I've been running amsoil signature series 5w30. I have them measure the amount of oil they drain out, It has been roughly +- 0.1 L. Haven't sent any away yet for analysis, I might on my next change...
#34
Mountain Biking First
I am using Redline 5W/30 because I have the Eco Boost.
I have my brother using Mobil 1 on his 5.4
I have a customer that has been running Mobil 1 with 15k interval and had 867,000 miles and still counting on a 2005 Sienna
I have my brother using Mobil 1 on his 5.4
I have a customer that has been running Mobil 1 with 15k interval and had 867,000 miles and still counting on a 2005 Sienna
#35
I thought this excel spreadsheet was great on this website: http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...oa-thread.html
It is fun to BS about results, but some of us like solid data like this. Is there anyone here that can set this up? the key here is that results from the same engine are separated by a different color.
So, any spreadsheet gurus out there?
It is fun to BS about results, but some of us like solid data like this. Is there anyone here that can set this up? the key here is that results from the same engine are separated by a different color.
So, any spreadsheet gurus out there?
#36
Junior Member
Now I know that Honda has a Million Mile club where they are very particular who get's into that club. You have to have your car serviced at a Honda dealer on a regular basis where they will keep a record of the vehicle proving it's the original engine and no rebuilds. Toyota is also close to having some Million Mile club members or they may already have some so I know the engine can live a very long life just on how great of an engine design it is from the manufacturer.
That being said maybe the LS-1 in my camaro was that great of a design OR maybe Royal Purple helped it uder the stress I kept it under.
Since then I bought a new Toyota Tundra, 32 valve v-8, 4 cam shafts. Lots of moving parts and lots of valve train noise. I ran Mobil 1 in that truck but decided to switch to Royal Purple, it was literally a difference of night and day. With the hood popped and leaning in towards the engine it was much much quieter and it idled smoother. This tells me that the oil is doing what it's suppose to be doing.
A friend of my has a new 5.7 hemi ram. He said he was going to do an oil change that next weekend and I told him about Royal Purple. He decided to switch and he reported back that the slight vibration it had when it idled was gone and it idled quieter, less valve train noise.
When I switched to Royal Purple on my ecoboost I thought that it was taking longer to warm up. Possibly because there is less friction meaning a slower rate of heat build up. Obviously with an engine running it will build up heat overtime just sitting there idling, but with an engine with a lot of friction it will build up heat and get up to temp a lot faster. Kinda like pushing your hands together firmly then rubbing them up and down, you can feel the heat from the friction. Soften the push and rub them together and no heat is felt, less friction.
I decided if this was true about how much friction Royal Purple freed up compared to others I would do an experiment on my wifes accord. All on the same day with the car in the garage I started the car from sitting over night and timed how long it took to get up to operating temp. Then changed the oil to Royal Purple and let it cool for a couple of hours. I retested and if my memory serves me correctly it took something like 21 more minutes to get up to operating temp.
To further prove that, during this winter I've been working long hours and over night shifts at work. For the long drives I've been taking my wifes car to save on gas. I usually go sleep in the car for my lunch hour. No problems because it would warm up pretty quick and I would put the heat on low and take a power nap. Since I've switched to Royal Purple I've been freezing while I nap because it will not get up to operating temp for the heater to blow warm air. The next night I drove it down a side street pretty fast, turned around and drove back pretty fast then pulled into the parking lot and let it idle while I sleep. For the entire hour it never got close to the operating temp, the needle barely got past the C spot on the gauge and when I did turn the heater on the needle went back down below the C on the gauge.
When it's 25 degrees outside it has to idle for 1.5 hours to get up to operating temp. When in that same temp it would take 30mins be at operating temp. The only difference was the oil I used. This proved to me that Royal Purple freed up a lot of friction. When you add in quieter valve train noise that's also proof of less friction. Less wear/tear longer engine life.
The following users liked this post:
Tothemax (02-03-2014)
#37
Mountain Biking First
One, I agree the Royal Purple is one of the best synthetic oils out there. I agree synthetic reduce friction which then will reduce temperatures. But 90% of the heat developed in an internal combustion engine is due to the combustion and not the friction.
If you engines are taking that long to warm up then your either have a temperature gauge problem or more than likely a thermostat problem.
Most manufactures now will throw a so called "thermostat slow warm up" code if the engine does not hit a minimum temperature with in a specific time.
If you engines are taking that long to warm up then your either have a temperature gauge problem or more than likely a thermostat problem.
Most manufactures now will throw a so called "thermostat slow warm up" code if the engine does not hit a minimum temperature with in a specific time.
The following 2 users liked this post by toytech6466:
packplantpath (02-08-2014),
Snowflake (02-05-2014)
#38
I went with Mobil 1 5w30 and a wix filter. The oil level was high on the dipstick some as if it had some moisture and fuel dilution in it. I'll check it again after a few thousand miles and see if goes up any.
#39
Senior Member
Ok guys getting a little nervous here. I just had my truck serviced at the local ford dealer and my paperwork says 6 QTS XO*5W 20* BSP M/C oil. This is a large ford dealer near buffalo NY and its been very cold. Thanks jason
#40
Junior Member
One, I agree the Royal Purple is one of the best synthetic oils out there. I agree synthetic reduce friction which then will reduce temperatures. But 90% of the heat developed in an internal combustion engine is due to the combustion and not the friction.
If you engines are taking that long to warm up then your either have a temperature gauge problem or more than likely a thermostat problem.
Most manufactures now will throw a so called "thermostat slow warm up" code if the engine does not hit a minimum temperature with in a specific time.
If you engines are taking that long to warm up then your either have a temperature gauge problem or more than likely a thermostat problem.
Most manufactures now will throw a so called "thermostat slow warm up" code if the engine does not hit a minimum temperature with in a specific time.