Spark Plug Torque on 2012 Ecoboost?
I have been reading all the forums I can find about the engine "shudder" issue plaguing some Ecoboost F-150 owners. When my truck was stock I never had any issues, loss of power ect..... I ended up buying the SCT tuner as I thought it could be the best and most flexible (Livernois owners please note the flexible part as Livernois was on top of the list for me as well)tuner to add HP and torque. Anyway I bought mine from MPT as they had recently posted some Dyno charts that showed an additional 100 Hp and about 140 ft/lbs of torque which seemed amazing. I installed the custom canned tune from SCT and noticed much better performance including and especially the shifting. I then turned my truck back to stock and let a buddy try the tuner and he loved it however he mentioned that he felt a little bit of "slight shaking" while in WOT. I never noticed it on my truck. After installing it back on my truck I got my custom tunes from MPT(100 hp and 140 ft/lbs of torque) and pulling out of my driveway I was impressed with the way the pedal felt..... I got on to an open road and slammed the gas only to feel the truck lose power under WOT. I then went back on my PC and read the email from MPT in its entirety and it said
" VERY IMPORTANT ECOBOOST INFO - WOT CUTOUT/MISS FIRE It is a known fact that Ford gapped the plugs incorrectly on thesetrucks. New trucks from the Factory are now coming with a different part numberplug and gapped at 032. If your plugs are gapped wider than 032 you WILLexperience a feeling of cutting out or a miss fire under hard acceleration.This issue gets worse with custom tunes that add more boost and power outputsuch as our performance tunes. The resolution if you experience this issue is to check and re-gapyour spark plugs. We recommend .030 for best results on our tunes." So I am now on a mission to re-gap my plugs to .30 and I found a different forum that suggest while re-gapping to torque them back to 11 Inch Pounds which is practically no torque at all. I have read others here stating 11 ft pounds which would make more sense since none of the auto parts stores carry anything small enough for 11 inch pounds. I just want to verify from someone that has done it successfully that it is 11 Ft pounds before I break a plug on my motor. Thanks.... I am new to the forum although I have been reading it for a year now. |
133 in lb which is about 11 ft lb
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Just what I wanted to hear. Will re gap today as that wrench is a lot easier to do. Thanks again
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Originally Posted by Eric7575
(Post 2988057)
I have been reading all the forums I can find about the engine "shudder" issue plaguing some Ecoboost F-150 owners. When my truck was stock I never had any issues, loss of power ect..... I ended up buying the SCT tuner as I thought it could be the best and most flexible (Livernois owners please note the flexible part as Livernois was on top of the list for me as well)tuner to add HP and torque. Anyway I bought mine from MPT as they had recently posted some Dyno charts that showed an additional 100 Hp and about 140 ft/lbs of torque which seemed amazing. I installed the custom canned tune from SCT and noticed much better performance including and especially the shifting. I then turned my truck back to stock and let a buddy try the tuner and he loved it however he mentioned that he felt a little bit of "slight shaking" while in WOT. I never noticed it on my truck. After installing it back on my truck I got my custom tunes from MPT(100 hp and 140 ft/lbs of torque) and pulling out of my driveway I was impressed with the way the pedal felt..... I got on to an open road and slammed the gas only to feel the truck lose power under WOT. I then went back on my PC and read the email from MPT in its entirety and it said
" VERY IMPORTANT ECOBOOST INFO - WOT CUTOUT/MISS FIRE It is a known fact that Ford gapped the plugs incorrectly on thesetrucks. New trucks from the Factory are now coming with a different part numberplug and gapped at 032. If your plugs are gapped wider than 032 you WILLexperience a feeling of cutting out or a miss fire under hard acceleration.This issue gets worse with custom tunes that add more boost and power outputsuch as our performance tunes. The resolution if you experience this issue is to check and re-gapyour spark plugs. We recommend .030 for best results on our tunes." So I am now on a mission to re-gap my plugs to .30 and I found a different forum that suggest while re-gapping to torque them back to 11 Inch Pounds which is practically no torque at all. I have read others here stating 11 ft pounds which would make more sense since none of the auto parts stores carry anything small enough for 11 inch pounds. I just want to verify from someone that has done it successfully that it is 11 Ft pounds before I break a plug on my motor. Thanks.... I am new to the forum although I have been reading it for a year now. Of the six plugs I pulled, the gaps ranged from 0.027 to 0.040, and no two were the same. This is how it came from Ford - bad quality control Ford!!! |
2 Attachment(s)
This is how far I got before I broke a small piece of plastic from the wiring clip. It still clips on no problem, so I am not too worried. I did manage to figure out how to take off the rest of them without breaking them. What next.....? I did remove the bolt holding the coil pack down and tugged on it a bit but as it did not come out and I had already broken something I chickened out until I can get some more advice. I wish there was a full youtube video....There was a small 18 sec clip showing how to remove the clip that I broke which helped. In my previous spark plug change on a different vehicle the coil packs(I believe that is what the part is called but see arrow in picture) would come off with a slight tug. This one did not and I got scared of breaking something.....again
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Originally Posted by Eric7575
(Post 2988375)
This is how far I got before I broke a small piece of plastic from the wiring clip. It still clips on no problem, so I am not too worried. I did manage to figure out how to take off the rest of them without breaking them. What next.....? I did remove the bolt holding the coil pack down and tugged on it a bit but as it did not come out and I had already broken something I chickened out until I can get some more advice. I wish there was a full youtube video....There was a small 18 sec clip showing how to remove the clip that I broke which helped. In my previous spark plug change on a different vehicle the coil packs(I believe that is what the part is called but see arrow in picture) would come off with a slight tug. This one did not and I got scared of breaking something.....again
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Snowflake,
Do I tug on the black piece with the arrow (I think its called a coil pack)? Or do I spin it out or something..... I did remove the bolt that holds it down but when I tried pulling it out it did not come out...(I already broke something so I decided to go with a very cautious and gentle approach). |
Grab it and twist till it breaks loose then twist and pull straight out.
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Originally Posted by Rnlcomp
(Post 2988407)
Grab it and twist till it breaks loose then twist and pull straight out.
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Yeah well that's the only way to describe it I guess, but in any event if you tear the rubber boot you can replace just that part.
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