Topic Sponsor
2011+ Engine Related Questions Sub-Forum to the new engines that debuted in 2011.

Difference Between a 2012 vs. a 2013 intercooler on Eco Boost 3.5L

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-25-2017, 01:14 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Hachethead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default Difference Between a 2012 vs. a 2013 intercooler on Eco Boost 3.5L

I have read all articles on the misfire at highway speeds after the vehicle has been driven for 1 hr. in a high humidity environment and none of them seem to resolve the problem. Ford replaced plugs, coils and boots. Installed the air shield and reprogramed. Injection service was even done. Still no relief to the issue. The forum also states this problem is limited to the 2011 and 2012 F150 with Eco boost. In 2013 Ford redesigned the intercooler to have 1 additional outlet port. (Older models have 2 inlets and one outlet) Does anyone have any data on the redesign? It appears that the actual size of the core of the cooler is the same for 2012 as is for 2013. I love the truck. It runs awesome 97% of the time. It’s the 3% that scares the heck out of me. Gas mileage is even 20mpg.
Attached Thumbnails Difference Between a 2012 vs. a 2013 intercooler on Eco Boost 3.5L-2012-intercooler.png   Difference Between a 2012 vs. a 2013 intercooler on Eco Boost 3.5L-2013-intercooler.png  
Old 07-25-2017, 01:42 PM
  #2  
Member
 
LXCoupe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: MI
Posts: 45
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

If I remember correctly the 4th outlet is for the BPV. In 2013 they went to a single BPV on the intercooler vs the older design had one BPV on both cold sides of the turbo pipping.

The main issue is the intercooler sits to low on the truck and causes condensation because of this. There are a couple aftermarket companies that make upgraded intercoolers that are bigger and also relocate them higher (in front of the radiator).

Last edited by LXCoupe; 07-25-2017 at 01:47 PM.
Old 07-25-2017, 02:23 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
2016BoostedGreyGoose's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 5,621
Received 2,417 Likes on 1,272 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by LXCoupe
If I remember correctly the 4th outlet is for the BPV. In 2013 they went to a single BPV on the intercooler vs the older design had one BPV on both cold sides of the turbo pipping.

The main issue is the intercooler sits to low on the truck and causes condensation because of this. There are a couple aftermarket companies that make upgraded intercoolers that are bigger and also relocate them higher (in front of the radiator).
I dont think the location was the issue with condensation. It was a combination of things....mostly that the larger, older CACs OVER cooled vs like say the smaller 2015+....which was also a bandaid for the issues. With the older CACs Ford tried to reduce the area of them by installing plastic shielding etc under a TSB....as I eluded to, in 2015 they "solved" the problem by going with a smaller CAC that is prone to heat soak...basically the newer, smaller ones heat up quicker thus reducing the condensation issue. Companies selling LARGER CACs have the correct idea...a BETTER flowing CAC also eliminates the condensation issues...so

So for you with the older CACs, the real solution is a larger more efficient, higher flower, lower loss CAC like Wagner, Mishimoto, and of course Full-Race....and others. I have never been a fan of drilling a hole in an intercooler so decide that method for yourself.

Hope this helps a lil
Old 07-26-2017, 10:48 AM
  #4  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Hachethead's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Thanks LXCoupe and BoostedGreyGoose,

I will do a little experimenting over the next several months to see if I can rectify. Since I live in “high humidity” Houston TX I will be able to tell quickly if I have solved the problem. If all else fails I have a MFG who will supply me a replacement cooler should I reach the point of no return. I also read the info yesterday on the Mishimoto site as this is one of the only companies which will actually talk about the issue.

Again, your comments are greatly appreciated.
Old 07-26-2017, 11:54 AM
  #5  
Boost :)
 
TJPlatinumEB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 2,329
Received 440 Likes on 328 Posts

Default

Did you drill the hole yet? That solves the problem for almost absolutely everyone with this issue. Some still have it, but almost all are solved with that.
Old 07-28-2017, 05:17 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
 
Blown F-150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 2,089
Received 487 Likes on 341 Posts
Default

I found out a couple of things while looking into why my truck had higher IAT2 (intake) temps than the 2011-2013's.

2011-2012 had the CAC (cold air Cooler) on the left in your original post. they had Blow Off Valves that were mounted on each turbo. You'll find some that had the "TSB" done and there will be a cover blocking some of you CAC. This was a band-aid to increase the air temps in the CAC and keep condensation from accumulating. It improved the situation for some, but many who had the issues before, still had it.

In 2013, they changed up the Turbos and went with a separate electronically controlled Blow Off Valve. That is why you see the extra port in the right CAC in your pic above. The CAC is absolutely identical in every other way to the 2011-2012's. The fix for the 2013'a was the same as the previous, but most came from the factory with the fixes (block-off plate and different ECM programming)

In 2014, Ford got real sneaky. The removed the block off plate (as most were ripping them off in the field to get better cooling) and went ahead and plugged up the sides of the core approx 60%. I can't find the pic of mine, but if you were to look in one off the port, you would see white accordion like thing stuck into the side of the core (on both sides of the core). I never had the condensation issue, but quite a few people still did and posted up on this forum. Seemed to be fewer than in previous years though.

As stated above, in 2015, they completely changed the design and programming. The CAC is small, different piping location, they added shudders to all control the temp. They even moved the licence plate back to center and it blocks half the opening.

So buying a different OEM CAC really isn't going to get you anything. Remove the shield they put on when they did the TSB, drill the weep hole and drive it.

If you want to go aftermarket, the Mishimoto CAC has a drain plug in it. The issue with this, is that you aren't going to stop halfway through your trip and drain it. There have been some pretty cool fixes out there, but I can't link them as they are on other forums.

I went with a Full Race CAC. Mainly for Performance and because I can mount a winch in the future if I want. I also went with a Blow off valve option that mounts at the lowest point. So when the BOV is open, it will dump out any possible accumulation.

Good luck...




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:03 PM.