Replacing spark plugs on 3.7L
#21
Junior Member
#22
How you opened green color adapter
How did you open that adapter in green color. Any instructions?
Well I did my plugs this morning, took right under 2hrs from prep to clean up. The hardest parts were 1 bolt and the wiring over that bolt.
I started with the easy side(driver side)
You'll need 8mm and 10mm sockets, long extension and short, flat head, needle nose, anti-seize, I think that was all I had out, I took a pic, but it was corrupt when I went to transfer, so I only have a few pics to show below.
Once you do the easy side, now comes the more time consuming part, removing the hoses and harnesses and unbolting the 8mm bolts.
This pic of the underside of the intake is to show no leaks or issues.
Here is the block without the intake, (one of the only good corrupt images I have)
in this pic you can see the bolt insert in the far back which is the bolt hole I was referring to that was a little difficult, my truck has the leveling kit and I only had a small 1 step step stool, so I had to use my swivel and 24" extention to get on to the bolt. But before that you will find that there is wiring that is secured to the intake right above the bolt, that has to come out in order to remove the intake completely. Once that is removed then that last bolt is easy to get to and break loose.
If all my images would have come out ok, I would be able to provide a step by step with pics.
I tried to remove and disconnect as little as possible.
Side note, on the intake there are 2 holes that look like there may be something in there to unbolt, but there is nothing in there you have to worry about.
There are only 7 8mm bolts you have to remove(and be remove I mean loosen from the motor, they will not come out of the intake, so don't try to actually remove them, there is only 1 which is in the middle and toward the center of the intake, that one will come out completely. but the others are held in the intake once you loosen.
Hope this helps someone else, if you have questions, just post them up and if I can ill try and help.
I started with the easy side(driver side)
You'll need 8mm and 10mm sockets, long extension and short, flat head, needle nose, anti-seize, I think that was all I had out, I took a pic, but it was corrupt when I went to transfer, so I only have a few pics to show below.
Once you do the easy side, now comes the more time consuming part, removing the hoses and harnesses and unbolting the 8mm bolts.
This pic of the underside of the intake is to show no leaks or issues.
Here is the block without the intake, (one of the only good corrupt images I have)
in this pic you can see the bolt insert in the far back which is the bolt hole I was referring to that was a little difficult, my truck has the leveling kit and I only had a small 1 step step stool, so I had to use my swivel and 24" extention to get on to the bolt. But before that you will find that there is wiring that is secured to the intake right above the bolt, that has to come out in order to remove the intake completely. Once that is removed then that last bolt is easy to get to and break loose.
If all my images would have come out ok, I would be able to provide a step by step with pics.
I tried to remove and disconnect as little as possible.
Side note, on the intake there are 2 holes that look like there may be something in there to unbolt, but there is nothing in there you have to worry about.
There are only 7 8mm bolts you have to remove(and be remove I mean loosen from the motor, they will not come out of the intake, so don't try to actually remove them, there is only 1 which is in the middle and toward the center of the intake, that one will come out completely. but the others are held in the intake once you loosen.
Hope this helps someone else, if you have questions, just post them up and if I can ill try and help.
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Kints (06-16-2021)
#24
I'll never di it again.
I changed my plugs out about 6 months ago on my 3.7L 2011 regular cab F150. It was approaching 100,000 miles and I did a coolant flush and change and had my transmission flushed and filter changed at a local shop. Right afterwards, it started missing. So over the next few weeks, I removed and replaced them over and over again, and ended up buying OEM coil packs on ebay (over $340). I kept thinking it was a bad plug or they needed to be torqued (I didnt do it the first time). I finally gave up and returned it to the shop that did the transmission service. They found a bad cylinder--which meant I needed a new engine. I asked it they could do anything else--maybe repair the cylinder or anything, but was told (by more than one source) that it would be more in the end. Long story short, they found me an engine with 135000 miles and installed it for $4000. I do most anything on my own, but I'll never, ever change a spark plug in a vehicle again.
#26
Senior Member
I got my plugs changed today, I followed the shop manual procedure. Really went well; one side was quick, the other not so bad, just followed shop procedures. screw by screw, hose by hose, connector by connector, to remove and install intake.
couple comments;
all 6 of my old plugs had even wear, .062 gap, all looked the same as color, etc. goes.
Secondly, the plug install torque is 133inch pounds, or 11ft pounds. This isn't what I call, tight at all. I didn't even use the racthet handle at all to install, just hand tighten the extension with socket, and then torqued. I even used both my 1/4" torque wrench set on 133 inches, and my 3/8" torque wrench set on 11 foot, just to make sure.
thirdly, the 7 intake bolts are to be torqued to 89inch pounds in a specific order, but then the shop manual has you tighten the same 7 bolts, an additional 45degrees, or 1/8th of a turn. I found this odd, but I did it. Why not just use a higher torque setting ??
a short drive around the block seemed good, will drive more this coming week.
couple comments;
all 6 of my old plugs had even wear, .062 gap, all looked the same as color, etc. goes.
Secondly, the plug install torque is 133inch pounds, or 11ft pounds. This isn't what I call, tight at all. I didn't even use the racthet handle at all to install, just hand tighten the extension with socket, and then torqued. I even used both my 1/4" torque wrench set on 133 inches, and my 3/8" torque wrench set on 11 foot, just to make sure.
thirdly, the 7 intake bolts are to be torqued to 89inch pounds in a specific order, but then the shop manual has you tighten the same 7 bolts, an additional 45degrees, or 1/8th of a turn. I found this odd, but I did it. Why not just use a higher torque setting ??
a short drive around the block seemed good, will drive more this coming week.