Tuner Boost

My error...sorry Rheller, any questions, just ask.



The ones you have I like how the cleanside (drivers side) one works....it does a great job an on the cleanside, but you are not evacuating while under boost on the dirty side, and if you look at pictures, can fill up in a day or two in winter. Then it still has no evacuation taking place during boost operation so you can retain the cleanside one and have a great solution for that, but really need 2-4 times the capacity on the foul, or dirty side and need one with dual outlets to be able to correct the issues that the OEM system causes during boost. If you don't want the RX can for this (and the lines, fitting's, T, etc.) then one like the SMC is large enough and you can drill the top and modify it to add another outlet, but some checkvalves to keep the flow traveling the right direction. The chambered Mishimoto still allows a bit of pull through as well, but could also drill and mod it to work.

You only really need 2/3rds of the complete RX system to accomplish what your wanting, and could easily sell the dirty side one for another member to use on the cleans side.

Let me know if you need more help.

shogangp

[QUOTE=Tuner Boost;3291873]Rheller1, It does, and you can test yourself. Only one has posted they found a small amount get past, most all of the others will fill it. In fact, here is a challenge foe anyone such as your self that seem to want to attack instead of learn by all the technical info being presented. If you have ANY other brand, install a RX can in between it and the intake mainfold vacuum, now run it for 1000 mlies, drain both...I am willing to bet the RX can has as much or more AFTER the vapors have passed any other can already. What you may be missing is we do these tests on every can we see on the market. Anyone that has visited has seen the boxes full of every brand you can imagine and we use the same vehicle, same miles, same type driving as all engines create different amounts. And I also list the few other on the market that also perform very near to the RX can (yet none provide evac during both boost and non-boost) so your observation makes no sense. If all I was doing was selling , then I would hardly spend all the hours here and other forums sharing the technical and scientific data, I would just sit back and take orders as we run at capacity the way it is and are hardly "hungry" or "desperate" for sales.



I have tested about 5 cans on my own truck and my customers/friends trucks over the past several weeks. I can provide pictures and documentation for all of this. I joined this forum to seek information and an alternative to tapping into the turbo tubes as all this stuff for the ecoboost was pretty new to me, so I wanted to get some stuff figured out.

From my experience so far, the RX can by FAR picks up the most. There were a couple other cans that did good, but they filled up too fast. (they were too small)

Even with that, the rx can overall picked up more than any of the cans from my experience.

However, I had a customer put a clear filer tube after some one of his cans to do some more testing and I did on a couple of cans I had. And EVERY can let *some stuff through*.

I cannot tell you how much. Probably not a lot, but some is some.

So I have been trying for weeks to find an alternative to tapping into the turbo tubes and accomplish constant evacuation.

Why? because no can is going to stop everything and I have people concerned about pulling the gunk into there turbo tubes...

Also because of the whole stupid warranty thing.

Now I am sure a bunch of people are not going to be concerned about this little amount being pulled into there turbo tubes from the 2nd outlet on the catch can, ect, and its probably not a huge deal, I agree.

But if there were a way around it, it would be nice. I would rather pull through my airbox a couple drops of gunk than rather right into my turbo tubes, and not worry about a warranty at the same time.

Catch cans are the way to go, but the best setup is still unknown in my option.

Watt-maker

I got around to take some pics today.

Here is the driver side. You can see the OEM quick fitting on the valve cover and turbo inlet tube.


Here it is with the can installed. The can is simply plumbed in-line between these two fittings using the OEM fittings.


Here is the passenger side. Same situation. One fitting on the passenger side valve cover, one fitting on the passenger side of the intake plenum. The can is in-line with these.




Hope this helps you.

Gt-358

Just a heads up for the UPR catch cans. Extensions are ready to ship.

This will double the capacity of the your UPR catch can and
cut the air velocity in half making the UPR catch can efficiency
improve more than imaginable.

They fit great on the passenger and driver side of the EcoBoost
very nice and can be expanded even more if you wish. The UPR
Catch Can was re-designed to be 100% modular and expandable.

$30 for Satin and $40 for colors.

mrpositraction

^^

Someone is listening

Nice to see UPR doing this for their customers!

wilkinda

Very nice!!

Watt-maker

Due to the amount of crud my driver side can was accumulating, I decided to install a small tank for the catch can to drain into today.

I found a small, cheap aluminum tank at summit racing. I had some of the fittings already. The bracket is from a carrier bearing spacer kit from years back.

The can was listed as 20oz but the paperwork with the can says 1qt. I believe it to be closer to 20oz.

Drilled some holes in the bracket and the front frame crossmember to mount it.




Here you can kind of see the 45° fitting at the bottom of the driver side can. I used a 3/8" barbed fitting and fuel line to the catch tank making sure there were no low spots in the line to avoid pooling.


Looking straight down behind the radiator, you can see the top of the tank were the hose connects to the 90° 3/8" barbed fitting.


Fits up behind the factory splash shield.




On a side note, I had about 400 mostly highway miles since I last drained the cans and changed the type of motor oil. I found it interesting that I drained out a little less crud than I usually collect in the cans. So either the slightly warmer temperatures or the different motor helps with this. Maybe now I can go oil change to oil change before it is time to drain. I'll still check in 1000 miles just to get an idea. I also hoping that this will also prevent any contents in the can from getting sucked up into the turbo.

Tuner Boost

That extension will definitely help. Now just get the filter media away from the outlet. Excellent addition! Props for making the change.

shogungp, drop me a PM, have more data to discuss with you. You have a good head on your shoulders and am impressed with what your doing.

Also, for those not wanting to drill the intake tube for the secondary vacuum source during boost operation, a bit costly but this is another members idea that is thinking good on alternatives. The electric vac pump option:

That is an option that works very well, in fact have the pump mounted inside the airbox and it retains a closed system emissions wise, and will do even a better job than the tap into the turbo inlet. In fact, any GM 3.6L, 3.2L will have a good strong vac booster pump from a junk yard for $20 range. Hook it up with a relay (20-30 amp) and key on and it works great. In fact I have one just like that and it works better than anything else in maintaining the correct flow. To purchase a new pump is# 20804130 for $180 or so.....they last and work perfect

Left Plate

Here is my contribution as I did not have room to mount it up front with my Full Race IC. So I ripped a page out of Watt-Makers book!

Left Plate

I have been running a Mishimoto baffled can VTA for about the last 3 months. I found it interesting that I still had this much condensation in the cap and lines when I pulled it out!