Hemirunner

It seems that most of the horror stories of eco-boost owners blowing up their engines with tuners can most likely find that this is the root cause. This stuff going through the turbos and intercooler ends up in the intake and is probably contributing to severe detonation when timing is added and boost is increased. (ie tune) Interesting and most likely a huge design flaw inherent to the ecoboost platform. Nice solution. The RX can looks nice. Can the can be purchased separately? I'm not impressed with their bracket or choice of mounting locations. I'd like to purchase components and make my own brackets.

G2G

I'm sorry but I call bull ****; show me definitive evidence that water/oil is the culprit behind anyone blowing their engine up on a tune. I haven't heard a single account to date blaming excess oil/water being the cause of a blown motor.

- Steiner

Hemirunner

I'm not sure what your experience with the internal combustion engine is, so I won't bore you with mine. Oil is a intake charge is a huge contributor toward detonation. I'm guessing that if I had what was left of Rcsharp's engine to examine, I could show you definitive evidence. I'm just postulating my theory, you're more than welcome to object but oil contaminating the intake charge leading to detonation is basic engine 101.

SkiSmuggs

I am sure if you contact the manufacture directly you can get whatever parts you want.

mrpositraction

It comes with 15' of hose in a single length, you can cut the lengths you need.

I liked that as I could tidy it up and make the lengths perfect.

Watt-maker

I thought this was common sense. Say your cruising down the highway at 2k rpm, you decide you want to pass someone so you put the pedal to the floor. The engine spins up to 5k, the boost spools up and with it is a big slug of water/oil. This water/oil mixture is not vaporized, it is liquid. Your engine will try to compress it but liquid does not compress. Something has to give. Whether it's the piston, wrist pin, rod, crank, whatever, somthing is going to give.

Yeah, I know, it's the internet so take the stories with a grain of salt. I'm not going to search for you but I know there have been threads on here that involved somebody driving in the rain/high humidity, they go WOT, and all hell breaks loose. If it's not water ingestion from the CAC, aided by a poor crank case venting system, then what is it?

G2G

I'm asking for definitive proof. Blaming every tuned engine failure on oil/water mix with no proof is the issue I'm addressing.

- Steiner

dcfluid

I am chipping in here, maybe regretfully.
You are not addressing the issue, you are asking for someone to address it for you with definitive proof.
You are challenging other people's theories and asking them to prove it.
Maybe with your help they can find the proof you wish to see to verify these theories and we can all put it to rest.?

G2G

I just hate seeing people jump to conclusions without proof and blanket blame all problems based on their thoughts.

It's like the eco haters that say every ecoboost will blow up because a few people have blown turbos or thrown a rod. Yes engine and turbo failures will happen, but let's try and be rational and not jump to conclusions blaming the first thing that comes along.

I deal with this type of situation a lot, one of our customers recently requested we change the color of the o-ring on one of the injectors we sell them because they found one injector leaking at this point and the o-ring was red and not blue. The o-ring isn't the problem, but it is the only thing the nontechnical person perceives as different so they immediately call it the problem.

Maybe I should shut my mouth and let people be idiots.

My apologies for derailing this thread. To put it back on topic: it would be interesting to see before/after pictures of someone's valves before they instal a catch can and after 20,000 miles to see if there is any noticeable difference in buildup. Maybe seafoam the intake before installing the catch can to try and clean any deposits off the valves to start. Though I hate the idea of fouling out O2 sensors.

- Steiner

Hemirunner

I'm not an eco hater, I'm an eco boost owner who'd like to refrain from scattering my engine over what is potentially an easy fix. I'm also not jumping to conclusions, I'm just stating my theory based on my 30 plus years of race engine experience combined with what I know and have researched since buying my ecoscrew. I would love to have definitive proof to show you and to confirm my theory but I don't have it and never claimed to.
Calling people names won't help us in our quest for answers, especially when you have no idea of their knowledge or abilities. That's jumping to conclusions.
I like your idea of a test and what would be even better would be a two truck test using two new ecos. Equip one with cans and leave one stock and torture both. Considering the cost of that test, I doubt anyone but Ford could pull it off, but if my lotto numbers align, I'll look you up and we'll have some fun with a couple of new eco's.