brucesears

If you're not getting misfires it's probably a tune problem.

prior

I was having similar issues with the same tune. I have a 13 as well with 3.31 gears and 34" tall tires. I was running a 91 race tune from MPT and never had the chance to datalog it to be fair.

I just installed a full race downpipe and switched over to a 91 performance tune from LET and that issue appears to be gone now.

RX Speed Works

It's a strong possibility that water is collecting in your (CAC) intercooler and when the turbos kick in and boost increases your inhaling that water. As much as a quart has been known to accumulate. This is a known problem with the EcoBoost. Check out this thread as a partial resolution. Once drained the fix is our oil catch can system for the EcoBoost. We're a sponsor here now so I've added a link at the bottom to our site along with a link to our YouTube channel where you can learn more.

https://www.f150forum.com/f70/ecoboo...s-here-223824/

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCh9...4gwyDlMSP_TdAA

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Tothemax

Please don't gum up the tech threads with your sales pitch. It creates a lot of heartache and it's just not worth it. If guys want your products, they will seach you out.

makuloco2000

Did you two see all the garbage that came out of there when I cleared the cylinder and spark plug well threads? Not only does it clean the threads and the internals of the combustion chamber it also blows out any dirt that may of gotten down in there while changing the plug out even though it was cleared beforehand it happens. Always a good idea when the plug is out.

papa tiger

Carefully using compressed air is a smart decision and protects foreign objects from getting pounded inside the cylinder by moving parts while safely saving these obstinate, small objects for the broom and trash container.

jar944

+1 I broke one last night. looks like I needed to push it forward after pulling the red tab backward

Laxman09

I changed my plugs about a month ago to the updated SP-534. They were not gauged correctly so I used a feeler gauge and got them all about .30. I hand tightened them all in and extra little with the ratchet after. Ever since I have had a rough idle and it feels like the truck jerks while idling at a stoplight/sign. It does not do this while driving around whatsoever. I live in Pittsburgh and the weather here has been cold. Range from the teens-30s since I did the spark plug change. It was tuned with MPT Street Performance, but I returned it to stock to see if the problem went away but no luck.

I have an SCT and no codes are showing. Could it be an issue with it just being cold? Plugs? Any insight? Hopefully this isnt too off topic, not meaning to hijack a thread

Cord

Maybe you can identify why so many diagnosises also include the need to replace the coils? I've had the carbon tracking problem and last time I just replaced the one defective plug. There are other members who have been told that they need to replace all the plugs and coils! Is there something in the service manuals that is confusing a bad plug with a defective coil?

SkiSmuggs

A few things, without a torque wrench, over tightening is a possibility or the plugs may have been damaged in the gapping process or you had a bad plug or you have a bad coil or loose connection.
With an OCB bluetooth transmitter and the Torque Pro app, you can run diagnostics to see if you are getting misfires and in which cylinder. I used it to find I had a misfire in #4 with 20K plugs. Had the dealer replace, ran worse and I now had 3 misfiring plugs because dealer over torqued. Replaced myself, pulled a 9500 lb fiver up a mountain, ran diagnostics and no misfires. Torque Pro costs about $5, the transmitter about $20 for the ones that work. Money well spent.