makuloco2000

As promised here is the follow up with my findings and the fix for the 2.0l Ecoboost I mentioned in the previous video. What it came down to was excessive coking on the backside of the intake valves and by doing a simple 5 minute cleaning the problem was eliminated. Now whether there is also a valve stem seal leak on #2 is yet to be determined.

In conclusion there is a definite issue with carbon and oil coking on the intake valves that needs to be addressed sooner than later by Ford with some kind of a cleaning method. As mentioned in the video if there is anything substantial that comes down the pipe from Ford on how to resolve this issue in the long term I will be sure to let all you Ecoboost owner know.

Ford850

Thanks for the info Makuloco. That's what I call "a smoking gun". Some comments from the video:
- Oil vapors getting baked on at cylinders (ports) that the PCV dumps into.
- Ford is seeing widespread carbon issues on all EcoBoost model engines.
- Causing misfires and poor running.
- After cleaning, it has never run so smooth.


Catch can anyone?

itguy08

Thanks. Very interesting...

I'd also wonder if there is, as you suspect a leaky valve stem seal? Cause that definitely looks nasty considering the EB 3.5 looks so much better at higher miles. I think the PCV hose it part of the issue. On the 3.5 it vents to the intake (generally) rather than directly in front of an intake port.

Makes me wonder if there is something else up with that engine, either design or something else out of tolerances. It would also be interesting to see the data of 3.5 vs 2.0 issues.

I think the idea of running it good and hot for a while is a good thing - I remember reading somewhere, maybe on the VW forums that it helps considerably with their engines (and their engines are prone to a lot of this). Perhaps that's why some don't have issues - a good flogging gets everything nice and hot.

Mak,
Do you see many 3.5's with these issues or does it seem to be mainly the 4 cylinders?

Stu Cazzo

So where can a person buy a catch can kit thats got everything needed?

biff420

First, never doubt a guy named Brian, especially when its spelled correctly with and "i".

Serious question though:
So on the 2.0L eco, cylinders 2 and 3 are most effected. So what would be the cylinders to watch for on the 3.5L? Also, it looks like since cylinder 2, port 1 is so much worse, no contest, would it be reasonable to assume that there might be some other failure specific to that cylinder/port? I agree the PCV dump might be an issue but I don't think that's the whole story to this particular ecoboost.

Full disclosure: my name is also spelled correctly.

Tothemax

Interesting.

So what do we do? Pvc reroute? Catch can? Clean the valves every so often?

I have a slight idle Flux at idle. It only does it while the motor is cold. Do you think that's due to this? I also noticed a couple extended crank sessions when it was cold out. - 30.

iFord

Ok, being a simple knuckahaid (that'd be me), the REAL cause of this is direct injection, right? Not the turbos? That's wha' I'm getting. If so, why doesn't Ford just go with regular injection, wha'ever that's called. Direct injection puts the gasoline directly into the cylinder bypassing the intake, under the valves? Am I right?

Tothemax

Yes, that's how it works.

makuloco2000

The 4cyl so far but there are many reports out there of this on the 3.5l but I have yet to see them. There was actually a new tsb that came out today about oil vapors getting into the intake and a new revised pcv baffle system on the 3.5l in all except the f150.

I would like to see one that is a direct fit also.

The front cylinders would be the worst on the 3.5l as they are closest to the source but the way the intake is designed is all the water from the cac always affects the left hand bank so I would say the left hand bank also.
There are multiple tsb's for your concern. A catch can would do it but I would like to see an OEM fix as this is an OEM setup.

Real concern is the direct injection then the turbos add pressure in the crankcase from excessive blow by compared to a non turbo engine which pushed more oil onto the backside of the valves.

Tothemax

I would also like to see an oem fix for this problem.

When I mentioned the fluctuating idle and the long start when cold to my dealer, they said it was normal.