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Ecoboost waste gate/bov problem

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Old 07-21-2018, 12:53 PM
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My truck has begun making a very weird sound. First time it happened couple weeks ago caught me off guard so much I didn't even think it was my truck. But it happened again yesterday and can confirm its my truck making it. You know when you are listening to the radio and a severe thunderstorm warning comes across...that loud annoying electronic warning sound....it kinda sounds like that.

I have no idea where it's coming from...but I'm noticing I've been getting blips in my rpms when I'm going up hills. At first I thought they were misfires but I'm beginning to wonder if my torque converter is going and maybe that's where the sound is coming from.

Or maybe it's still related to the wastegates/bovs as discussed here...I dunno going to have to keep investigating
Old 01-15-2019, 03:26 PM
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Default Surging ecoboost

I have a 2014 ecoboost that sounds the same as video 1, it also surges while it is happening. What was the cause, and what did you do to correct the problem?
Old 01-15-2019, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott.karen

I have a 2014 ecoboost that sounds the same as video 1, it also surges while it is happening. What was the cause, and what did you do to correct the problem?
The surge was the result of the truck running in "limp mode" that was caused by an engine timing error due to worn timing chains that damaged the phasers. The first step is to scan the computer for error code P0016. If you have this code, the chains are worn out and need to be replaced. While you are in there, be certain the phasers are replaced. To not replace the phasers now will save hundreds only to cost thousands later.

Old 02-26-2019, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by dcfluid
I've been dealing with this issue for years now in my 2013.
Yesterday I changed the BOV as I hoped it was a ripped diaphragm in the BOV. Cleaned & Tightened all tubes, signs of a few leaks around one turbo and the CAC.
No such luck, still the same. Reflashed to stock, reset cam, and every other thing I could.
Problem is exactly the same with 5* 87P/T tune, just magnified worse because of the extra power when it works right.
My symptoms: medium steady throttle acceleration, 1500 to 2500 rpm there is a "hesitation, lag, power loss" where you can hear the hissing BOV letting off boost. I did this while venting to Atmosphere and it confirms that the sound is coming thru the BOV system. Truck accelerates sluggish during this time unless you floor it hard.
When rpms hit 2500 everything seems to correct itself and wham! Crazy hard acceleration from then on, especially if you were squeezing the throttle down to push thru the lag period.
Steady throttle in this rev range results in surging and rpm fluctuations until it catches and goes when over 2500 rpm.
Very annoying to drive normally. Really light or really heavy throttle is better but not perfect.
No alarms or codes. Ever.
Power is terrific, tows like a beast. Always have great boost, even when problems are occurring.
Never a CAC issue. (hole drilled)
Stock or tuned it's a consistent problem.

My question : at half the price I paid for the BOV, should I try the part bl3z9b325c?
Seems likely that this is a problem that this would cause.
Anyone else have this issue and tried fixes? Win or lose?
Timing chain, wastegates, hoping this problem is not it.
It's been doing this since before 20,000 kilometres, now at 80,000. Being so new it makes me doubt timing chain. But I did hear the chain slap on start a few times in the first year of ownership, and its never returned.
Will appreciate any help, I'm not the only truck around here behaving like this.
I doubt you heard the timing chain “slap” if it was that loose then it would have caused way more serious problems , this pulsing bov problem is caused by 3 things, low voltage/badwasegate/or bov it won’t be your timing chain so I would start with checking for leaks in the charge pipes then low voltage.. they are the simplest, then test the other two components
Old 02-27-2019, 05:21 AM
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See my earlier post about balancing your turbos. One may be backfeeding the other
Old 02-28-2019, 02:36 AM
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I started a new thread looking for help on my similar problem, but this thread seems to have lots of communality.

I know the plumbing and testing of my other "turbo" pretty well, (2001 911 twin turbo) but haven't delved into the ecoboost yet.

After reading some of the last posts in this thread, It actually seems like a fairly similar system.

The Porsche 911 Turbo:
  • Twin turbos with integrated mechanical wastegates.
  • The wastegates are spring loaded, adjusted by a lock-nut actuator rod.
  • Wastegates can be held to higher pressure by the engine control system either allowing or blocking pressure from entering the wastegate control line.
  • Separate "diverter" valve system (equivalent to blow-off)
  • Diverter valves are used to dump pressure when throttle is lifted (to prevent turbo stalling)
  • Wastegates are used to control boost pressure when on throttle.
Sounds pretty similar to the first generation ecoboost setup, yes?

On the 911, the wastegates are typically tuned:
  • Ensure they are not seized.
  • "crack" open at ~6psi
  • fully open at ~7.5 psi.
  • Tuned engines that run higher boost are often increased a few pounds on crack pressure by adjustment rod.
  • 1 turn of the locknut/adjuster = about 1.5 psi change in wastegate cracking pressure.
  • Same on both wastegates
  • Full boost (~16 psi) is achieved by NOT feeding the pressure to the wastegate.
  • You always want to set your fully mechanical "default" wastegate opening pressure to be less than maximum boost and have the controller increase the boost as commanded.
On a 2011 F150 Ecoboost, where is the solenoid controller that switches the pressure on and off to the wastegate controller?

Is there a known spec for "crack pressure" on the ecoboost wastegates? Is it recommended to increase crack pressure on a tuned engine?

PS, this is my issue I'm trying to solve... Intermittent, happens mostly when cold or on high mountain passes in higher gears.


Last edited by pfbz; 02-28-2019 at 02:48 AM.
Old 11-11-2020, 11:27 AM
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Yes Mine making sound like on video, did you fine out what is the problem?
Old 11-11-2020, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Arjohn Servande
Yes Mine making sound like on video, did you fine out what is the problem?
The engine is in limp mode due to timing chain stretch. $3500 repair at the dealer.
Old 11-11-2020, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Cord
The engine is in limp mode due to timing chain stretch. $3500 repair at the dealer.
Will you guys please run the best Oil, Synthetic only and spare the Dealer's Noto Crap oils changes !
Old 11-12-2020, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by pfbz
I started a new thread looking for help on my similar problem, but this thread seems to have lots of communality.

I know the plumbing and testing of my other "turbo" pretty well, (2001 911 twin turbo) but haven't delved into the ecoboost yet.

After reading some of the last posts in this thread, It actually seems like a fairly similar system.

The Porsche 911 Turbo:
  • Twin turbos with integrated mechanical wastegates.
  • The wastegates are spring loaded, adjusted by a lock-nut actuator rod.
  • Wastegates can be held to higher pressure by the engine control system either allowing or blocking pressure from entering the wastegate control line.
  • Separate "diverter" valve system (equivalent to blow-off)
  • Diverter valves are used to dump pressure when throttle is lifted (to prevent turbo stalling)
  • Wastegates are used to control boost pressure when on throttle.
Sounds pretty similar to the first generation ecoboost setup, yes?

On the 911, the wastegates are typically tuned:
  • Ensure they are not seized.
  • "crack" open at ~6psi
  • fully open at ~7.5 psi.
  • Tuned engines that run higher boost are often increased a few pounds on crack pressure by adjustment rod.
  • 1 turn of the locknut/adjuster = about 1.5 psi change in wastegate cracking pressure.
  • Same on both wastegates
  • Full boost (~16 psi) is achieved by NOT feeding the pressure to the wastegate.
  • You always want to set your fully mechanical "default" wastegate opening pressure to be less than maximum boost and have the controller increase the boost as commanded.
On a 2011 F150 Ecoboost, where is the solenoid controller that switches the pressure on and off to the wastegate controller?

Is there a known spec for "crack pressure" on the ecoboost wastegates? Is it recommended to increase crack pressure on a tuned engine?

PS, this is my issue I'm trying to solve... Intermittent, happens mostly when cold or on high mountain passes in higher gears.

https://youtu.be/60O5SLFD_3o
on my 2013, the actuator solenoid is on top of the intake manifold. That noise in the videos seems like a tear in the diaphragm. This could also be the result of imbalanced turbos.


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