kruman

I thought it did seem to help because the issue is harder for me to recreate in warm weather when the repair was made. Now that the cold is back I have a few hills I travel and the issue pops up. I have gotten in the habit of locking out gears to prevent it from happening. I can accelerate more when the issue happens and make it stop the blow off cycling. But in a subdivision I can't go 50 up a hill so I lock the gears and keep it in 2nd.
Very frustrating issue we have, the truck wasn't like this when I bought it so something has changed. The computer has never been reflashed by a dealer so it's the same as when purchased. Makes me think a sensor is causing a bad reading somewhere since a lot of the other possible causes have been explored. I hope collectively as a group we can figure this out without us all throwing wads of money at a dart board.

dcfluid

I do have some suspicion that I may have a bad wastegate or turbo on drivers side.
Reasons: 1) I have now had 2 exhaust manifold gaskets start leaking from warped manifold.
​​It was replaced a year ago las fall and failed again this summer. Always in hot weather while towing travel trailer in steep mountains.
2) I hear that squeaky huffing sound as seen on the you tube videos, but I only hear one squeak/huff when I cycle throttle in my trouble range deliberately trying to make it have an episode. Not bad enough to get a dealers attention yet.
So my theory is too much heat on one side due to an underperforming wastegate, fueling problem, turbo damage or other issue.
Any ideas on what may be causing our issue and also affecting one side of the turbo system?
Cheers and Merry Christmas.

kruman

For the fueling problem, could a bad o2 sensor cause this? I notice on the torque app my driverside o2 reads different from the passenger side. And my mpg have dropped about 1.5 since I noticed the bov sound issue about year and half ago.

It might be all related to something totally different but just throwing out ideas. If the fuel causes more heat and the heat leads to another issue etc etc.

I also can replicate my sound when in drive, foot on the brake and I throttle to about 2k rpm I can make a constant hiss sound. Like air escaping from a punctured tire. There is a finite range that I can get it to do this but Does this happen with anyone else truck under those circumstances?

maplelakeduckslayer

I'll check and see for you. I have replaced my 02s to no avail. You could be getting different readings due to this issue causing one bank to not run properly. Do you know if one side is running richer/leaner than the other? I seem to remember at one point one of my sides was off too, I'll try and look at the readings again and see but I want to say my driver's side was running rich

kruman

My driverside (side with issue) was running more rich than other. I'll try to remember to read the torque app again and see if I can get a value difference.

F150miz

I have had this issue since day 1 of owning my 2014 Ecoboost supercrew. I heard it on the test drive and still bought it like an idiot. Pulsing air sound and surging acceleration (unless at WOT) at low rpms. Thought the sound was the 4x4 actuator for the longest time because it sounded like rocks scraping on a rotor dust plate cover, so things I have replaced:


4x4 actuators, IWE solenoid, all actuator vacuum lines, PCV valves, brake booster check valve. No fix.


Was convinced I found the issue in looking at the forums the other day thinking it was the a bad eBOV (I have a 2014), so I replaced it. No fix.


I found a thread that I cant find now where someone found a cracked wastegate hose, so I was going to check that next along with the wastegate solenoid (IF I HAVE ONE-STILL CANT FIGURE THAT OUT). It definitely sounds like wastegate flutter, but Ive never had isssues with that in the past so I didn't realize until watching some videos. It seems to get a little faster with more speed and completely opens (or closes?) at WOT.


Background: started at 62K miles, now at 77K miles. Hasn't gotten better, hasn't gotten worse. Definitely coming from the drivers side. Livernois motorsports tune did not take it away and I believe it might be a little worse on the 93 and 87 performace tunes with more boost, not too much to be very noticeable, but I only drive to and from work 55mph and never really get into high boost.


Ive never thrown a code, until a couple weeks ago when passing someone with very little gas in the tank I went into limp mode and got 3 random cylinder misfires. I put the cause for that as old gas/condensation in the tank. I have a MEGA catchcan which empties at least 4oz a week.


It happens engine cold and hot, in any gear, mostly when giving it partial throttle from 1500-2000RPM, and accelerating at partial throttle in any gear. If I give it throttle very slowly the sound gets more pronounced and if I go full throttle I hear a hard whooshing sound like a blower motor kicking on which I believe to be the higher boost keep the wastegate open and/or leaking air constantly as opposed to the pulsing air sound.


In this time ive also replaces the plugs with motorcraft precision gapped plugs to go with the tune and the original plugs were fine. I hear no chain slapping or other weird noises. It seems to be more pronounced on left turns at that acceleration (?) vs right turns or going straight from a stop. I have had terrible gas mileage since day 1 (13.5) and never goes up or down. Also, I know there is a lot of blow by in these motors which is why I got the catchcan, but the driver side turbo seems to be caked in oil, whereas the passenger side is squeaky clean. If you have the radio on you cant hear it but you can definitely feel it. I'm at a loss and about to sell the truck. There are no codes and driveability otherwise is fine. I love the truck and there is so much more I want to do modification wise, but I can bring myself to spend another dime on mods until I figure out what this issue is.


If it is a sticky wastegate, is there anyway to fix this other than by replacing the turbo?


Not my truck but this is my noise, just not this loud and not as chirpy:
https://www.f150forum.com/f38/ecoboo...-noise-304199/

teeko

Not sure if this will help any of you but it FINALLY solved my problem. Turns out the actuators were not balanced. One started opening at 2 psi, the other at 7. Since this motor has a charge air y-pipe feeding both banks, one turbo may be backfeeding the other charge air pipe and stopping at the turbo. The turbos would essentially be fighting one another.
What causes this, I have no idea but for all those who have replaced oodles of parts to no avail, this may prove to be helpful. It has something to do with actuator spring preload. Now I'm not sure exactly when the are supposed to start opening but that would affect how low your power comes on. I dint think mine are preloaded enough, but I just picked it up yesterday and had a snowy drive home. Need more time to drive it to be sure if it feels like it should.
If anyone knows anything about preloading or what pressure they are supposed to start opening, please comment.

F150miz

THis makes a lot of sense to me as a cause, I have never understood how a single inlet could feed both. So did you just pick it up from the dealer where they adjusted the preload?

This raises a couple more questions:
1. Can this be done on all years 2011-2014?
2. I wonder if a dual pipe intake like the full race on would solve this problem if in fact it is my problem?

kruman

Anyone know how to adjust the actuator or what they are suppose to be set to?
Would you mind keeping an eye on your MPG to see if it improves as well? Seems like an underlying issue most of us are having poor mpg combined this wastegate/bov issue.

teeko

Form techs DO NOT adjust preload. They swap in an entire new turbo and actuator assembly. These come factory set but adjustment is actually quite simple. There are 2 jamb nuts on the actuator pushrod that sandwich the wastegate linkage. To increase preload, you would have to move the pushrod out or extend it from neutral. I had a mechanic looking at this because I had a couple other issues with my 2016 motor going into a 2013. He was able to adjust them on the truck. Drivers side wheel well (inner fender may have to be moved) and passenger side from under the hood.
Now that they are balanced, the flutter is gone but I think they need to be tightened up a bit. It still feels like I used to have more torque at low rpm with the old motor. I'll know more after some more highway driving but I do believe if they are opening too early, the turbos are not making enough boost and therefore not enough hp in the midrange. Mine felt sluggish but it never registered an underboost code.
I'm not sure when Ford switched to electronic actuators but I think this procedure can be done on any year with spring actuators 2011-early 2016. My donor motor was from a 2016 but the engine build date was October 24 2015.

That being said, does anyone know when Ford updated the timing chain and phasers, incorporating them into the engine builds? That was the whole reason I wanted a 2016 because I heard by then the motors had the new parts. I don't want to do another timing chain!!