maplelakeduckslayer

You got something going on with coils and or plugs, you sure you didn't crack them when you replaced them? Have you replaced the coil boots? I put dielectric in the boots and connections as well and have kissed misfires goodbye. Can try cleaning the map sensor as well, but seems 90% of the time it comes to plugs/coils. You may consider replacing your coils, I did at 90-100k miles

keiko

Hi all,
Have seen this scenario in this thread, but getting same problem with shuddering and loss of power on passing acceleration. I have 2011 F150 FX4 Ecoboost, bought it 2013 with 34,000 miles on it. Plus full maintenance history. I was living in the panhandle of TX. Very low humidity, hot in summer windy cold in winter. Traveled to East Tennessee yearly and other humid places for over a week at a time. Never no issues. Fast forward to May 2016, truck has about 82,000 miles, no problems with it. 90% of the time we have less than 10% humidity, little below average rain fall this year and our elevation is about 3500 feet. Went to pass a car, doing about 55 in a 75 and when I punch it to pass, I got the shuddering and loss of power, I was able to make the pass, but it was still I, then the check engine light started flashing. So I pulled over and put it in park and just sat there for a bit. Still flashing, so I turned it off and let it sit a few minutes and restarted it. No flashing light, so I took off, easy, got up to 55 again and punched it to the floor and before I got to 60 it did the same thing again. But the light stayed on. I did the same as before, but engine light still on. But driving normal no problems. So I was able to get in to Ford service next day.
They told me I need spark plugs, so I had them change them, $300 later(only the plugs were change, I had them do oil and air filter change to, since it was free), and truck was running better than ever. Gas mileage increase by 4 mpg, no problems at all.
Move to Espanola NM for a job in Los Alamos, laid off in Dec, from oil field rig manufacturer. Everything was fine for the first couple of weeks, elevation between 5600 ft. 7320 ft., humidity no more than 50% and that’s no more than a day or 2. Then it started again, under load, passing going uphill and with traffic and no were to pull over I put it in manual and dropped to 3rd gear and got full power back and worked my way up to 5th gear. Engine light flashing like a strobe light, got to work using manual mode. Came out of work, hot, 95, 10% humidity, started up no light, so started driving home, taking it easy, when to pass on an uphill it started all over again. Engine light stayed on this time. I was finally able to get in to the Ford service in Santa Fe. They told me I had the P0305 code 5th cylinder misfire. They told me I had the wrong spark plugs in (SP 534) that Ford in TX put in and it was also due to the elevation change from TX to NM, a change from 3500’ to driving between 5600’ to 7300’ on a daily bases…..
They want to replace spark plugs with CYFS 12 YT3, new boot – ignition wire, sensor asy and wire asy. This going cost me $1000!!!!!!!
Has anyone heard of this problem with scenario and will what they want to do fix it and does the cost seem on par, most of it is for labor.
Any help would be great appreciated
Thank
Brian

winchested

#1 please learn to type your posts in a readable manner, not one giant run on paragraph.

Sp 534 is the only plug spec'd for the ecoboost engine. The boots should be replaced as they are only $2 a piece.

You can do all this work yourself for a few hundred $$.

Drill the dang intercooler first to see if it solves your problem.

If you are only getting a #5 cyl misfire only change that coil because the others are fine.

We don't have ignition wires, we only have plugs and coils the boots are on the tip of the coil.

papa tiger

If nothing listed above helps for long decarbon the intake valves and put on a quality can.

keiko

Thanks all, and to winchested my wife tells me the something. That's why I'm a CAD Designer/Drafter and not a writer.......

Bravo3eco

You never said what you gappedplugs to. I went safe and did .028. This and the intercooler weep hole fixed my stutter. However, since it was never addressed by previous owner, the cats and O2 sensors are shot. I have quite a money pit going!!! ��

keiko

I didn't change the plugs, the dealer did. Im headed back to Texas this weekend, where all my tools are. I plan to replace the plugs, the boots and possible the coils too. Also definetly going to drill the hole in the CAC, do you think 1/16 is to big???
Thanks for the advice, I'll let you know how it turns out
Thanks
Brian

caseychaos

This is my very first post here, though I've often visited for help, guidance.

I have a 2013 SCrew Ecoboost with 6.5' bed. I've really enjoyed this truck. I took it from the San Antonio area to Fort Worth a few weeks ago. I had no issues heading up. Coming back, I experienced what I call a pause in the engine's power. I found the intercooler hole solution and gave it a try. A fair amount of oil/water released from the new orifice.

I test drove it, and used it to commute for at least a week with no further issues. I felt like I had it licked.

Last Friday, I loaded it up, put my trailer with Polaris Ranger on the back and headed to the deer lease with my kids. I didn't get 10 miles from the house and the engine stalled at a red light. It just quietly quit running. It flashed the "low engine oil pressure" warning but I'm certain that's only due to it having stalled. I tried for 5 minutes to get it started. All lights, radio, a/c worked with the key on, but it would not start. It finally started and I looped back towards the house and left it in the driveway for the weekend using my wife's SUV to get to the lease.

I read where this has happened to folks before, but with no real resolution. There is no check engine light, hence no code? I wrote this off as an anomaly and drove the truck trouble free all week. I was happy and convinced it was, in fact, an anomaly.

Yesterday, returning home from a couple hours of running errands with my daughter, it died again. I coasted to the side of the road and tried for several minutes to revive it. Finally, it started. Off we went only to have it happen 3 more times in a 30 mile drive. No check engine light, no warning, the engine just goes to sleep.

Now, as I think it might be related, on Memorial Day weekend I went out to start my truck and the dash looked like a slot machine on a winning pull. It did not start, but threw every error it had in its repertoire. A quick look under the hood, revealed a freakin' squirrel was in there on its newly crafted nest. Under the next, my engine harness had been destroyed. 2.5 weeks in the shop and a new harness and ECM later...my truck was back home. I've had zero issues with it since getting it back, until the pause, hole drill, stalling issues.

Sorry for the long post, but I'm worked up and have no desire to get in this thing for any kind of trip be it local or long distance. Thoughts?

Big*Red

Hi Casey...I know I'll get chewed out for mentioning this on the CAC Hole blog, but the CAC hole only deals with one source of the gunk accumulation. The other source of the same sort of similar gunk comes from the PCV valve that gets blown back directly in on cylinders 2&3 which can create a very similar kind of problem as the CAC condensate. I have accumulated (and disposed) of it by the liter with the (here goes...) Catch Can. Check them out...they are readily available, and you don't have to spend a lot on one. I bought a cheapie and stuffed it with coarse stainless steel pad. Make sure there are no loose fragments if you have to cut it to fit...

Good Luck!

LastResort

Occams Razor. It was the squirrel. And I don't see how anyone could suggest a catch can to address this issue..........