Ecoboost condensate drain hole, post your results here
#1831
my buddy with the same MY14 ecoboost just drilled... in helping him, we used just a 1/16 bit, and drilled just a touch to the right (outside) of the mount on the IC, at the lowest point just where all the criss cross pattern is. (hope its the right spot)
front deflector was a pita, but just loosened it
he has about 45k km on his, which is 28k miles
the output was substantial... about 1/4 cup of oil.
However there was no water/green goop... just oil...
We went for a spin, and afterwards looking around, it sprayed oil everywhere... must have bounced off the front deflector and even was on the control arm.
Now... this is the observation:
1. good to get that crap out, but there was no green sludge on his MY14... and I would reckon that this stuff would get burned out "okay", even though you really don't wan to run that by your intake valves or as a liquid.
2. no notable loss of power, BUT... the wastegate is what is keeping the boost in check. So IMO, if it is pushing enough pressure to literially "spray" out all that oil, there is going to be some immediate loss in pressure until it reaches full boost, and the waste gate remains open to moderate at the 13.7 PSI.
ALSO...
3. Because of the point in aforementioned 2...
No the engine itself nor the fuel economy will "be affected", BUT the turbo's will definitely spool more to achieve the same level of boost.
I could imagine these 2 situations: Being tuned, and long distance heavy duty towing/payload which could result in more extended higher-RPM use of the turbos...
Though most of us don't use the F150 is a full time towing vehicle... I'm just thinking that this could be more stress on the turbos...
Thank goodness these turbo's aren't excessively priced
4. Yeah a catch can is probably a good idea. Along with drilling which is a good thing, a catch can is probably going to keep crap from reaching intake valves.
Now, I've not heard any issues with "coking" on the intake valves being a problem with this car, unlike say the Audi 3.0...
Because of everything I've mentioned, I am still hesitant to proceed with my truck, as obviously the issue with the MY14 is less condensation than the crap that is recirculating from the ERG valve timing
there is a good chance that with the MY14, the condensation issue isn't an issue, rather the recirculating gasses that require a catch can...
Anyone ever plug this hole and how?
Anyone who's done this, towed much? (i.e. tow heavy?)
front deflector was a pita, but just loosened it
he has about 45k km on his, which is 28k miles
the output was substantial... about 1/4 cup of oil.
However there was no water/green goop... just oil...
We went for a spin, and afterwards looking around, it sprayed oil everywhere... must have bounced off the front deflector and even was on the control arm.
Now... this is the observation:
1. good to get that crap out, but there was no green sludge on his MY14... and I would reckon that this stuff would get burned out "okay", even though you really don't wan to run that by your intake valves or as a liquid.
2. no notable loss of power, BUT... the wastegate is what is keeping the boost in check. So IMO, if it is pushing enough pressure to literially "spray" out all that oil, there is going to be some immediate loss in pressure until it reaches full boost, and the waste gate remains open to moderate at the 13.7 PSI.
ALSO...
3. Because of the point in aforementioned 2...
No the engine itself nor the fuel economy will "be affected", BUT the turbo's will definitely spool more to achieve the same level of boost.
I could imagine these 2 situations: Being tuned, and long distance heavy duty towing/payload which could result in more extended higher-RPM use of the turbos...
Though most of us don't use the F150 is a full time towing vehicle... I'm just thinking that this could be more stress on the turbos...
Thank goodness these turbo's aren't excessively priced
4. Yeah a catch can is probably a good idea. Along with drilling which is a good thing, a catch can is probably going to keep crap from reaching intake valves.
Now, I've not heard any issues with "coking" on the intake valves being a problem with this car, unlike say the Audi 3.0...
Because of everything I've mentioned, I am still hesitant to proceed with my truck, as obviously the issue with the MY14 is less condensation than the crap that is recirculating from the ERG valve timing
there is a good chance that with the MY14, the condensation issue isn't an issue, rather the recirculating gasses that require a catch can...
Anyone ever plug this hole and how?
Anyone who's done this, towed much? (i.e. tow heavy?)
#1832
Senior Member
#1833
If a seal is going in a turbo it will increase in volume leakage fairly quickly. Not the problem now just oil from the PCV/back thru the fresh air side as vapor to condense in the CAC.
#1834
Senior Member
this is likely PCV crankcase fumes rather than a turbo seal leak
#1836
Thas the oil/water/acid mix you get condensing the very hot crankcase vapors. I get it all the time in the can to the fresh air side. Especially after very wet/snow conditions.
#1838
Senior Member
ok i have not been here in a couple of years. i will take the crap but i just wanted to ask, is this thread related to the rapid power loss when hard acceleration is attempted? i have been living it with years and i want to get it fixed.
thanks and blast away!
thanks and blast away!
#1839
Yup mostly biggest thing to take away from this thread would be id say, to drill a 1/16" weep hole in lowest point of drivers side intercooler, as well as change plugs and gap them .28-.32? And take it from there, hope that helps some, lots of pics and how tos on the web
#1840
Senior Member
Yup mostly biggest thing to take away from this thread would be id say, to drill a 1/16" weep hole in lowest point of drivers side intercooler, as well as change plugs and gap them .28-.32? And take it from there, hope that helps some, lots of pics and how tos on the web