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Eco spark plug gap

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Old 10-11-2012, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by HogFan
X3
x4
Old 10-12-2012, 08:41 AM
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What ngk plugs are for our trucks in the normal heat range?
Old 10-12-2012, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Snips
What ngk plugs are for our trucks in the normal heat range?
Should be the Ngk LTR6IX-11 (6509)
Old 10-12-2012, 06:11 PM
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What size socket needed to remove the plugs?
Old 10-12-2012, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by pprior
What size socket needed to remove the plugs?
5/8

I got by with about a 10" and a 3" extension, plus a universal joint. You won't need all 3 for each plug, but these are the basics you ill need. A word of advice, be extra careful with the COP screws. I dropped one into the abyss and luckily found it by reaching around with a magnet, super lucky. Take your time.
Old 10-12-2012, 09:15 PM
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Well...changed my plugs...found why i was having a misfire...the insulator that surrounds the electrode decided it wanted to slide around...so if the plug was vertical with A on top and B on bottom than the insulator slid all the way over the electrode and if B was on top and A was on the bottom the plug looked perfectly normal...**** me right?
Old 10-12-2012, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Snips
Well...changed my plugs...found why i was having a misfire...the insulator that surrounds the electrode decided it wanted to slide around...so if the plug was vertical with A on top and B on bottom than the insulator slid all the way over the electrode and if B was on top and A was on the bottom the plug looked perfectly normal...**** me right?
I had one with a cracked insulator.
Old 10-13-2012, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Snips
Well...changed my plugs...found why i was having a misfire...the insulator that surrounds the electrode decided it wanted to slide around...so if the plug was vertical with A on top and B on bottom than the insulator slid all the way over the electrode and if B was on top and A was on the bottom the plug looked perfectly normal...**** me right?
Originally Posted by Deerhunter4

I had one with a cracked insulator.
I'm going to have to check this out. Mine was great for a month or so after posting my results. The shudder and rough idle are back again.
I think I mentioned that #6 plug was heavily carboned on the ground electrode. Maybe I'll get a new set ( I just regapped stock) and check the plugs thoroughly once out. I'm guessing #6 will show signs of carbon buildup again. Maybe the insulator or faulty coil.
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Old 10-14-2012, 07:51 AM
  #279  
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I installed my NGK 7's yesterday. On startup, the miss/unevenness was gone. I thought that was good. When I took it for a ride acceleration was much smoother. At less than 1/2 throttle I never had issues, but before when I was 1/2 or more throttle you could feel some hesitation (not sure if I can call it a shudder but it felt like a shudder). The truck does feel much smoother. I never had the "truck fell flat on its face" issue, so I can't comment on that.

One down side though. In playing with the throttle, I noticed that my truck doesn't like to hold torque lock converter as readily as before. Meaning, in 5th or 6th with light throttle it used to not bump out of torque lock and now it does more easily. Not sure if I like this. Is this a sign that the engine is sensing a higher load than was there before and now wants to downshift?

Also, forgot to mention, I had no CEL codes when I checked with both SCT, Torque App on my Android, and also with an OBD2 code reader that I've had forever. Had to triple check lol.

Last edited by boosted150; 10-14-2012 at 08:28 AM.
Old 10-16-2012, 12:23 AM
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Why doesn't anyone try the Denso ITV20's? Am I missing something I looked one the Denso site and they list them for the 3.5 V6 engine.


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