Eco spark plug gap
#121
Senior Member
Damn! Don't know what to tell you!
You sure you are getting all the connectors back on? I mean the ones for the coils and any others you might have pulled to get the plugs out.
What are you changing them with to crack them? Don't have a plug socket with the rubber grommet in it?
You sure you are getting all the connectors back on? I mean the ones for the coils and any others you might have pulled to get the plugs out.
What are you changing them with to crack them? Don't have a plug socket with the rubber grommet in it?
I am pretty sure the coils are back on i mean you cant really mess it up since you push the coil down onto the plug and bolt it down
#122
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Mr_Snips
Yeah i'm using a brand new spark plug wrench with the gromet in it. Pretty sure the Autolites just suck *****. I've changed plugs on a ton of cars, bikes, quads, etc and NEVER cracked an insulator.
I am pretty sure the coils are back on i mean you cant really mess it up since you push the coil down onto the plug and bolt it down
#124
Senior Member
Ya, but are you getting the electrical connections all the way on? Did you have much trouble unplugging the coils from the electrical connectors? Could you have bent the contacts inside the connectors? There was a connector I had to disconnect from something (fuel related?) at #6 coil in order to get it out. Did you reconnect that one as well?
on the 5 out of the 6 the insulators were flaking off...like big chunks not little hairline cracks. Anti siece from oreilys
#125
better looking than geno
What is the anti-seize made of?
Remove the anti-seize, clean it real good with some brake cleaner and let them dry. I know it goes against what you want to do, put them in clean. At least until this can be ruled out.
The plugs only torque to 133 inch pounds, thats like 11 ft pounds. Seriously that is next to nothing. I have done these plugs 3 times now, haven't messed up a single plug yet. I can run the plugs down just to they stop and they will click 133 in lbs without turning. Seriously not much.
Remove the anti-seize, clean it real good with some brake cleaner and let them dry. I know it goes against what you want to do, put them in clean. At least until this can be ruled out.
The plugs only torque to 133 inch pounds, thats like 11 ft pounds. Seriously that is next to nothing. I have done these plugs 3 times now, haven't messed up a single plug yet. I can run the plugs down just to they stop and they will click 133 in lbs without turning. Seriously not much.
#126
Senior Member
Originally Posted by chalybs
What is the anti-seize made of?
Remove the anti-seize, clean it real good with some brake cleaner and let them dry. I know it goes against what you want to do, put them in clean. At least until this can be ruled out.
The plugs only torque to 133 inch pounds, thats like 11 ft pounds. Seriously that is next to nothing. I have done these plugs 3 times now, haven't messed up a single plug yet. I can run the plugs down just to they stop and they will click 133 in lbs without turning. Seriously not much.
Remove the anti-seize, clean it real good with some brake cleaner and let them dry. I know it goes against what you want to do, put them in clean. At least until this can be ruled out.
The plugs only torque to 133 inch pounds, thats like 11 ft pounds. Seriously that is next to nothing. I have done these plugs 3 times now, haven't messed up a single plug yet. I can run the plugs down just to they stop and they will click 133 in lbs without turning. Seriously not much.
#127
Senior Member
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pprior (10-11-2012)
#129
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by chalybs
The anti-seize, if not SPECIFICALLY made for spark plugs will insulate. The threads are the ground. No good ground=miss fire.