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Eco spark plug gap

Old 08-09-2014, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Lurker
Unfortunaltely I broke 2 red tabs that hold the coil plug on, anyone know if there is a easy way to fix that?
Yea, break the other four so they all match. You don't need them. I'm not quite sure what real purpose they serve anyway.
Old 08-09-2014, 11:02 PM
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What plug is the best, i'm replacing mine at 40k with the Autolite XP Iridium XP5364. I put these plugs in at about 10k so they about about 30k on it. going to get my trans fluid done and see if i can get BG done at my local ford dealer to get the top end cleaned then change plugs. What do you all think of this plug.
Old 09-01-2014, 07:58 PM
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Finally checked my plugs in my 13. They were all gapped at .034. Regapped them to .030. No more rough idle when engine is cold now.
Old 09-03-2014, 11:04 PM
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Is there a correlation between the spark plug gap and the intercooler issues? I had the TSB for the intercooler done about 3 weeks ago and it did nothing but drop the power way down. I took the truck to a different dealership today and they checked the plugs and the tech said they were in the .060's so I got new (stock) plugs installed, gapped at 0.031 per oasis. I didn't drive it much yet but it seems smoother so far. I hope it fixes all the misfires and shutting down but I'd like to have the power back that I lost when they did the reprogram with the TSB.
Old 09-06-2014, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by BucketMan
I added value, I answered the question, then added some more.
But the answer is 11 FT/ Lbs. or 132 in/lbs
At least that's what Haynes says and makes more sense than less than 1 ft/lbs. You can do 11in/lbs with your fingers.


Mind you I'm not an auto mechanic but controlling and teaching torque is my business. I doubt there's be any seal at 11 in/lbs. You're talking about the same torque as tying a 16oz plastic bottle of water at 12 inches from the socket. Actually that would be over torqued or 12 in/lbs if you disregard the weight of the bar.

Last edited by 3kushn; 09-06-2014 at 12:10 PM.
Old 09-15-2014, 01:59 PM
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Without wading through 100 pages, is there any experience with plugs being tough to remove or stripping threads in the aluminum ecoboost heads?

Reason I ask is am debating on whether to use ant-seize or not.

NGK says no need with properly plated plugs:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/TB-...1antisieze.pdf


On the other hand, Denso indicates it is permissible with a 50% reduction in torque.

http://densoiridium.com/installationguide.php

For a 14mm tapered thread in aluminum, Denso states dry torque of 7-15 lb-ft, which agrees with Ford's 11lb-ft recommendation.

This would translate to 4-7 lb-ft lubricated. As anti-seize is not as "slippery" as an oil, I would lean towards the higher end. Although thermal conductivity from plug to block might be slightly better with anti-seize, would wait for a few thousand miles and read the plugs for possible heat changing.

Note: this would absolutely require a good torque wrench accurate at that range. Likely a decent digital 1/4" drive model. Larger ones are inaccurate at low percentages of full scale.


Reason for all the concern is history of aluminum threads not being reliable in long term (well beyond normal consumer) use.


If this line of thinking is correct, do we have a sticky somewhere for stuff like this?
Old 09-15-2014, 09:48 PM
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In reviewing anti-seize, data, it appears that if used, both copper and nickel-based may have issues with aluminum. Accordingly, something along the lines of a Never-seez marine grade anti-seize, applied sparingly (just the first 2-3 threads, ensuring no excess on or near the insulator) with a torque derating factor of ~60% of dry (.110/.185) may be worth consideration. Call it roughly 8 pounds in the accurate range of a torque wrench. A wrench maybe 20 to 25 lb-ft full scale.

Plugs removed from a cold engine, of course.

Where I'm going with this is if plugs need changed out frequently, say every 15-20K miles, I want to reduce wear on the aluminum head threads. Ideally, MSD or someone will come out with a wonder plug that will survive and maintain gap 50k miles or more.
Old 09-17-2014, 07:56 AM
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Default 85k mi regap and 120k mi replace

Ran original 528 85k and re gapped to 33. Had slight miss at wot. At 120 k mi replaced with 534's just for good measure. No problems, just wanted to replace. New were gapped at 32 from box. Installed with 3/8 drive ratchet and just snugged good. Did same at 85 and no big prob to remove old plugs at 120. Didn't check gap at 120, but worn considerably per pic. Gained about 1/2 mpg after change.
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:48 PM
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Re-gapped my spark plugs in my 2014 today. Stock gap ranged from .034-.028. Gapped all at .028. Runs good idle smooth now sometimes I think it died it's so quite and smooth.
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Old 10-25-2014, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ecomama
Is there a correlation between the spark plug gap and the intercooler issues? I had the TSB for the intercooler done about 3 weeks ago and it did nothing but drop the power way down. I took the truck to a different dealership today and they checked the plugs and the tech said they were in the .060's so I got new (stock) plugs installed, gapped at 0.031 per oasis. I didn't drive it much yet but it seems smoother so far. I hope it fixes all the misfires and shutting down but I'd like to have the power back that I lost when they did the reprogram with the TSB.
Good luck with that..... I have been trying for over a year to have FOMOCO re flash my 2012 back to original. They say it can't be done.....or they won't do it. Mine ran like a scalded dog before they did the TSB...

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