Catch Can Education
10-15-2017, 09:24 PM
#11
I think I found the can I will try out, without killing my bank account
JLT's 3.0 kit seems nice and simple.......and affordable
Holds 3 ounces too
I like it mounts cleanly on the firewall and uses no clamp hoses
http://www.stage3motorsports.com/JLT...nger-Side.html
JLT's 3.0 kit seems nice and simple.......and affordable
Holds 3 ounces too
I like it mounts cleanly on the firewall and uses no clamp hoses
http://www.stage3motorsports.com/JLT...nger-Side.html
Last edited by KOZ45; 10-15-2017 at 09:34 PM.
10-15-2017, 09:46 PM
#12
King Hater
3oz is tiny. Your going to be draining that all the time. Especially in the winter.
10-16-2017, 05:05 PM
#14
Like 500 miles if its only 3 oz. In the winter mine fills up very quickly and I can fill half a pint glass in less than 1000 miles. This isnt like the GM LS engines that get an ounce here and there. This is why they sell the mammoth cans. I got the normal RX can and wish I got the monster one because I cant even drive from SLC to Denver and back without needing to dump it.
One thing I will suggest is that you get a kit which relocates the pcv inlet lines from the manifold to just before the turbo. I personally feel the number one benefit to the catch can kits is not catching the crap, but helping evacuate the crank case better. My oil used to smell like fuel when I would drain it, then I got the RX catch can kit and its 99% better. Having the pre-turbo pcv lines seems to make a big diff. These engines operate much like a diesel where the manifold is under pressure most of the time unless you are coasting. Diesels have their PCV line routed into the intake tube between the air filter and turbo inlet because this section is always under a slight vacuum whether the turbo is spooled or not.
Honestly, you could get the same effect by just relocating the lines yourself without the can, but if you insist on having a can then just get a kit that does it. I probably would do this if I had to do it over again but hindsight is 20/20.
The clean side separator allows the crank to pull in fresh air from inside the air box, behind the air filter. I am guessing this is to allow the crank to backfill with filtered air if the PCV lines are putting the crank under vacuum(IE pulling more mass than the engine produces in blow by). My kit came with it, and could be one of the reasons my oil smells so much better, but I cant tell you for sure.
If you get something like the RX kit then you dont need a can for each side.
One thing I will suggest is that you get a kit which relocates the pcv inlet lines from the manifold to just before the turbo. I personally feel the number one benefit to the catch can kits is not catching the crap, but helping evacuate the crank case better. My oil used to smell like fuel when I would drain it, then I got the RX catch can kit and its 99% better. Having the pre-turbo pcv lines seems to make a big diff. These engines operate much like a diesel where the manifold is under pressure most of the time unless you are coasting. Diesels have their PCV line routed into the intake tube between the air filter and turbo inlet because this section is always under a slight vacuum whether the turbo is spooled or not.
Honestly, you could get the same effect by just relocating the lines yourself without the can, but if you insist on having a can then just get a kit that does it. I probably would do this if I had to do it over again but hindsight is 20/20.
The clean side separator allows the crank to pull in fresh air from inside the air box, behind the air filter. I am guessing this is to allow the crank to backfill with filtered air if the PCV lines are putting the crank under vacuum(IE pulling more mass than the engine produces in blow by). My kit came with it, and could be one of the reasons my oil smells so much better, but I cant tell you for sure.
If you get something like the RX kit then you dont need a can for each side.
Last edited by mass-hole; 10-16-2017 at 05:22 PM.
10-16-2017, 05:17 PM
#15
As far as a hole in the intercooler, why not just buy a self tapping screw and put it in the plastic end tank. Then just pop it out once in a while and take the truck for a spin and blow the crap out.
10-17-2017, 08:50 PM
#16
King Hater
Thats been discussed before. It negates drilling the hole in the first place. You drill it so the water/oil drains over time and doesn't build up. If you plug it, it will build up and your back at square one.
10-18-2017, 02:45 PM
#17
How fast does it build up. I've had my truck for 51,000 miles with no hole and not once had an issue.
10-18-2017, 02:59 PM
#18
King Hater
Depends on the truck, weather, driving conditions, location etc.
10-20-2017, 10:03 PM
#19
Senior Member
I really thought I was going to install the catch can after watching lots of positives vid's of them. But then realized in the end the weep hole was just a different way to get to point B for a lot cheaper. Besides you don't drill the intercooler you drill the pipe. If you don't like it you can use black sealant to close it, it's only a 1/16" hole. I've never had an issue since I drilled BTW.
10-21-2017, 10:10 AM
#20
King Hater
I really thought I was going to install the catch can after watching lots of positives vid's of them. But then realized in the end the weep hole was just a different way to get to point B for a lot cheaper. Besides you don't drill the intercooler you drill the pipe. If you don't like it you can use black sealant to close it, it's only a 1/16" hole. I've never had an issue since I drilled BTW.
You drill the bottom most spot on the intercooler. I am not a catch can guru but they do not work the same as drilling a hole in the intercooler. Hopefully someone will chime in.
I know on mine I have both the intercooler hole and a CC. The CC pulls out a lot a gunk that the hole wasn't evacuating as it wasn't present in that system.