Snowflake

Anybody thought of running this in winter months or even now. Might be better in the minus temps for cold start ups and fuel economy. www.lubedealer.com/spinneysgarage

Joewee3.5

I ran it with my first oil change. No measurable change in mpg.

boosted150

I run 0w30 in the winter only.

With the normal 5w30, If you start the truck up at about 0 degrees F, you'll notice some slight ticking that is present for about 5 seconds then goes away as the oil gets to where it needs to (top of the engine).

With 0w30 Mobil 1 at 0 degrees F, there is no ticking at all. Does it make a difference in the long run? Who knows, but it makes me feel better when there is no engine noise on startup.

I have not noticed a MPG difference either. But, that may be because I use it only in the winter with the winter blend gasolines. I run 5w30 M1 in the summer because I think the turbos get beat to hell in the summer heat and need a little extra viscosity. Plus, if you care, the M1 5w30 is certified HTO-06 for Honda/Acura turbo engines (the 0w30 M1 is not).

I give it a

BoostedFitz

If I wasn't on a prepaid maintenance plan, I'd be running it all year. There is a good website called bobistheoilguy.com there is a section called oil university. Read it in full. That is all I can say. So much good info.

p38fln

There really shouldn't be a difference in 0W30 vs 5w30 in hot weather - my understanding is it has the qualities of a 0 weight oil when cold, and a 30 weight oil when hot - just like 5 W30 has the qualities of a 5 weight oil when cold and a 30 weight oil when hot.

One thing to be very careful about - Do not use Motorcraft 0W30 in your truck. It is designed for diesel engines and will damage catalytic converters. It also looks like you shouldn't use it in a DPF equipped diesel, either.

Mach 1

I am running the S9000 5W-30, and did my first OA @ 20000, 10000 on oil, You can expect bad numbers at first because of the break in period and the block still having casting sand in it.

I had high levels of silicon, will submit another at 30000 to see where I am.

The S9000 5W-40 is some of the best oil for diesels out there hands down, hope to see the same results with the Ecoboost..

fringe_remnant

No matter what oil you choose, cold start ups in our Canadian winters are the problem. And, oil choice is apparently not the answer. ALL oil is too thick at start up in the cold.

Want to save your engine? Put the truck in an unheated (if you live in an area where rusting is a problem) garage overnight and plug the engine block heater in ALWAYS during the colder months. Heck, plug it in all year round if you are obsessed with oil being at a better than near operating temperature at start up, where almost all the damage is done. Thereafter, any oil you choose that is right for the vehicle's normal operating environment and its design will be just fine.

Yes Snowy, Bob's Oil University says it all in a nutshell http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/

He states, correctly:

"Oils are divided into grades (not weights) such as a 20, 30 or 40 grade oils. This represents the viscosity range at operating temperature. But it is NOT the actual viscosity as we shall see. The issue is that viscosity is temperature dependent. Let’s look at a 30 grade oil and how the viscosity of this grade of oil varies with temperature:

For 30 grade oil:
Temp(°F) Thickness
302 3
212 10
104 100
32 250

"The automotive designers usually call for their engines to run at 212°F oil and water temperature with an oil thickness of 10. This is the viscosity of the oil, not the weight or grade as labeled on the oil can. I want to stay away from those numbers as they are confusing. We are talking about oil thickness, not oil can labeling. This will be discussed later. Forget the numbers on that oil can for now. We are only discussing the thickness of the oil that the engine requires during normal operating conditions.

"The engine is designed to run at 212°F at all external temperatures from Alaska to Florida. You can get in your car in Florida in September and drive zig-zag to Alaska arriving in November. The best thing for your engine would be that it was never turned off, you simply kept driving day and night. The oil thickness would be uniform, it would always be 10. In a perfect world the oil thickness would be 10 at all times and all temperatures.

"If the thickness of oil was 10 when you got in your car in the morning and 10 while driving it would be perfect. You would not have to warm up your engine. You could just get in the car and step on the gas. There would be little wear and tear on your engine, almost none. Unfortunately the world is not perfect.

"The night before when you drove home from work the car was up to the correct operating temperature and the oil was the correct thickness, 10. Over night the engine cooled to room temperature and the oil thickened. It is 75°F in the morning now (I do live in Florida). The oil thickness is now around 150. It is too thick to lubricate an engine designed to run with an oil having a thickness of 10."

Team Canada

For those of you that live in colder climates like myself, leave a bottle of regular oil and a bottle of synthetic out overnight and then pour each out with them cold.
The difference is amazing and shows how much better a synthetic works on cold starts in cold climates. The most damaging time for an engine is on cold starts.

I have convinced many people to switch to synthetic for this reason alone.
The difference is less noticeable for those of you in the warmer climates.

Ford850

And it's not all about which oil is thinner and gets things coated quicker. What about which oil remains on the metal surfaces longer? Is that dino, semi-synthetic, or full synthetic? Is it 0w, 5w, or 10w? I'm sure it varies on the temperature and the time between starts. So a 5w semi-synthetic oil might be best for typical daily drive times with 8 - 12 hours between starts because the metal is protected before you turn the key. Or maybe the 10w dino is best for that, but the 0w synth is better when an engine goes days between starts. It seems like there are many variables that come into play, but we tend to over simplify things and try to say one is best for everything. In the end, change your oil, oil filter, and air filter regularly and you're not likely to have issues.

BGUIMONT

This explains oil better than anything I have ever read. Makes total sense and kills the myths about thicker oil coating etc. follow this link and its well worth the read.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/