5.0L Oil Catch Can
04-03-2012, 10:11 AM
#201
After reading this string, and because I am having oil consumption issues with my 5.0, I decided that installing the oil catch can is a must. I called the Billet Depot and purchased the UPR oil catch can (polished). The price to my door was $122.00. I then stopped by a nearby Ford dealer and ordered the factory PCV line (non PCV valve side). Part number is: BL3Z-6758-A. The part came out of Detroit so it took a few days to get it. The cost was only $15 and change. What I did with this line was cut the factor quik-connect fitting off of each end and use those fittings to make my connection to PCV valve and the intake. When I made the cut I made sure that I had about .25 inches of factory plastic tubing left on the fitting. The hose that came with the catch can was heater hose and not rated for pcv/oil applications. I trashed that hose and I used is 5/8 inch PCV line from NAPA. The push fit over the factory fitting was perfect and the fit at the catch can fitting was good and snug. I installed Ideal hose clamps on the lines, but that is really an overkill since the push fit is so snug. But they are there and I will leave them there for now. After the install, I cleaned the inside of my tailpipe removing a light black/brownish residue. Today I drove the truck for 1 hour and after the drive, the tailpipe was absolutely dry and clean! There was part of my oil consumpution. This is the probably the best $100 that I could have spent on this great truck. Thanks to this forum, I now burn clean fuel, instead of a partial 2 cycle mix! See attached pics.
Intelligent men think alike ! I did exactly the same thing with the UPR can on my 3.7. Except I used the 90 degree quick-connect "L" fittings on both the PCV and intake (factory setup). By using the factory "L" fittings, I was able to run a direct straight line to both sides of the UPR can. I used 19/32" (5/8 compatable) emissions hose and clamps. Although like you said, the clamps are overkill. But I don.t want one micron of outside particles sneaking into the engine. Once again, I would provide pics but even with reduced small files (300 X 500), this site will not accept my effort. And I am open to suggestions. (Maybe I am not so intelligent after all)
04-03-2012, 11:40 AM
#203
Senior Member
coil covers
Thank you. I purchased the Boss 302 coil covers from http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-b...ue-1112gt.html. The current price is $89.00. They DO NOT come with ball studs. The valve covers have placement positions for the studs (three on each side), but they are not threaded. If you decide to buy the coil covers, I have an extra set of ball studs that I will send you - no charge 
. I bought a starter tap and bottom tap from WW Graingers and threaded the valve covers. The thread is M6-1 (metric). If you would rather not buy the taps, you could always file a 45 degree cut at the bottom of the stud and make it a self-starting stud. Good luck.
. I bought a starter tap and bottom tap from WW Graingers and threaded the valve covers. The thread is M6-1 (metric). If you would rather not buy the taps, you could always file a 45 degree cut at the bottom of the stud and make it a self-starting stud. Good luck.
04-03-2012, 12:09 PM
#204
Last edited by Jax123; 04-03-2012 at 12:20 PM.
04-03-2012, 02:01 PM
#206
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After reading this string, and because I am having oil consumption issues with my 5.0, I decided that installing the oil catch can is a must. I called the Billet Depot and purchased the UPR oil catch can (polished). The price to my door was $122.00. I then stopped by a nearby Ford dealer and ordered the factory PCV line (non PCV valve side). Part number is: BL3Z-6758-A. The part came out of Detroit so it took a few days to get it. The cost was only $15 and change. What I did with this line was cut the factor quik-connect fitting off of each end and use those fittings to make my connection to PCV valve and the intake. When I made the cut I made sure that I had about .25 inches of factory plastic tubing left on the fitting. The hose that came with the catch can was heater hose and not rated for pcv/oil applications. I trashed that hose and I used is 5/8 inch PCV line from NAPA. The push fit over the factory fitting was perfect and the fit at the catch can fitting was good and snug. I installed Ideal hose clamps on the lines, but that is really an overkill since the push fit is so snug. But they are there and I will leave them there for now. After the install, I cleaned the inside of my tailpipe removing a light black/brownish residue. Today I drove the truck for 1 hour and after the drive, the tailpipe was absolutely dry and clean! There was part of my oil consumpution. This is the probably the best $100 that I could have spent on this great truck. Thanks to this forum, I now burn clean fuel, instead of a partial 2 cycle mix! See attached pics.
04-16-2012, 01:59 PM
#207
[QUOTE=... I then stopped by a nearby Ford dealer and ordered the factory PCV line (non PCV valve side). Part number is: BL3Z-6758-A. The part came out of Detroit so it took a few days to get it. The cost was only $15 and change. What I did with this line was cut the factor quik-connect fitting off of each end and use those fittings to make my connection to PCV valve and the intake. When I made the cut I made sure that I had about .25 inches of factory plastic tubing left on the fitting. [/QUOTE]
Out of curiosity....why did you order the driver side line instead of the same passenger side (PVC) line? In checking prices, the PVC side is a few bucks cheaper and you get both right angle connectors as opposed to one right and one straight on the non-pvc side.
I like what you did, and am interested in picking up the extra factory part to hack up in order to get the quick connects. I am considering just picking up a new PVC side hose and keep in on the shelf and hack up my original.
Out of curiosity....why did you order the driver side line instead of the same passenger side (PVC) line? In checking prices, the PVC side is a few bucks cheaper and you get both right angle connectors as opposed to one right and one straight on the non-pvc side.
I like what you did, and am interested in picking up the extra factory part to hack up in order to get the quick connects. I am considering just picking up a new PVC side hose and keep in on the shelf and hack up my original.
04-16-2012, 04:07 PM
#208
Brianm825
Out of curiosity....why did you order the driver side line instead of the same passenger side (PVC) line? In checking prices, the PVC side is a few bucks cheaper and you get both right angle connectors as opposed to one right and one straight on the non-pvc side.
I like what you did, and am interested in picking up the extra factory part to hack up in order to get the quick connects. I am considering just picking up a new PVC side hose and keep in on the shelf and hack up my original.
I like what you did, and am interested in picking up the extra factory part to hack up in order to get the quick connects. I am considering just picking up a new PVC side hose and keep in on the shelf and hack up my original.
04-16-2012, 05:07 PM
#209
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Anybody elses truck seem to stop sucking oil into the can?
Seems my truck has seemed to stop filling up the catch can. Not sure if it "broken in" now or what.
The first 3k miles it filled up about 1/5 of the Jegs can. Since then nothing.
I guess thats a good thing?
Seems my truck has seemed to stop filling up the catch can. Not sure if it "broken in" now or what.
The first 3k miles it filled up about 1/5 of the Jegs can. Since then nothing.
I guess thats a good thing?
