5.0 UPR vs RX Catch Can Effectiveness Test
#12
Why not just hook up the RX can by itself and see it work. If you increase your volumn you have your answer. Why mess around the mumbo jumbo BS. You run the risk of not having a properly functioning PCV. The RX is designed to do the job properly Obviously you do not believe your other one works 100%. The traps work best when a filter/separator medium is added into them. You want the Vapor to condense in the trap and mostly air going to the intake. So get the empty one out of there for now. MHO
Not questioning your reasoning, just the design application. The sizes of your hoses seem way out of spec for the PCV system. Get them out of there and the right ones in place.
Not questioning your reasoning, just the design application. The sizes of your hoses seem way out of spec for the PCV system. Get them out of there and the right ones in place.
This will be a good thread to watch the outcome of, and has been done by several over the years that wanted to see for themselves as we all claim the "best".
The following 2 users liked this post by Tuner Boost:
FullMetal (04-05-2014),
papa tiger (04-05-2014)
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MetalAnon (05-31-2021)
#14
I think this thread definitely has merit. After this test is completed, I would recommend doing it the other way...place the UPR can after the RX one to see if it is indeed the "end all be all" of catch cans.
#15
Just my experience, after 1000 miles, my UPR catch can (dirty side) caught all of about 1/2 teaspoon of water driving in the city/mountains of CO this winter. It had a strong fuel smell (as did the oil), but that is about it.
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the feedback so far. Like I said, this will take some time for me to accumulate enough miles to have valuable results.
To answer some questions...
- Yes I plan to do the reverse test, with RX first and UPR in line after it. I'll see how this first round goes, and then decide if I still want to do that.
- The hose sizes are what come standard with each can. The UPR comes with 1/2 or 5/8" (not sure), and the RX is 3/8". I like the way I could route the 3/8" hose from RX without it collapsing the way the bigger hoses do. The OEM hose is an odd material. It looks to be assembled and then heat shrunk into a fixed, hard, shape. It's smaller than 1/2" and the bend portion is even narrower.
- My UPR can collection rates varied a LOT over the past months. I think December caught mostly water, and it was collecting at many times the rate as any other month, which seems to be normal.
- I'm happy with the UPR can has done for me. I also thought Tuner Boost was full of it when he claimed most cans allowed flow though. I figured they would somewhat, but I was surprised to see how wet that outlet hose was when I removed it from the UPR can before cleaning. Maybe the RX will do the same after the test though. Time will tell, and I'm as curious as anyone to see how they compare.
To answer some questions...
- Yes I plan to do the reverse test, with RX first and UPR in line after it. I'll see how this first round goes, and then decide if I still want to do that.
- The hose sizes are what come standard with each can. The UPR comes with 1/2 or 5/8" (not sure), and the RX is 3/8". I like the way I could route the 3/8" hose from RX without it collapsing the way the bigger hoses do. The OEM hose is an odd material. It looks to be assembled and then heat shrunk into a fixed, hard, shape. It's smaller than 1/2" and the bend portion is even narrower.
- My UPR can collection rates varied a LOT over the past months. I think December caught mostly water, and it was collecting at many times the rate as any other month, which seems to be normal.
- I'm happy with the UPR can has done for me. I also thought Tuner Boost was full of it when he claimed most cans allowed flow though. I figured they would somewhat, but I was surprised to see how wet that outlet hose was when I removed it from the UPR can before cleaning. Maybe the RX will do the same after the test though. Time will tell, and I'm as curious as anyone to see how they compare.
Last edited by Ford850; 04-05-2014 at 06:59 PM.
#18
Senior Member
You definitely should reverse the cans after a while for an accurate test, since the second can will see cooler flow through it which will condense more. One concern I have is the added restriction of the second can in your PCV system will reduce your evacuation flow significantly.
#19
You definitely should reverse the cans after a while for an accurate test, since the second can will see cooler flow through it which will condense more. One concern I have is the added restriction of the second can in your PCV system will reduce your evacuation flow significantly.
Always like to see the outcome of these tests, both ways as well (again, we do this with every can we see on the market or would be horrified that someone was doing a test like this in public) and that is also why we list the ones that tested effective and the test will only show a small amount gets past them even though it is an endorsement of sorts for a competitors product...not very good marketing were told! This challenge has been out there for years, yet very few ever do it themselves to see.
#20
Not to get off topic, but it is an ecoboost. However, I have had the same fuel smell in oil on my previous cars...Subaru Forester (turbo), Honda Accord (n/a v6) and mildly in my Z28 (n/a LS1). No problems in any of the vehicles, though I ran catch cans in the Forester and Z28 which also only caught spoonfuls of oil/water between oil changes.