Topic Sponsor
2011+ Engine Related Questions Sub-Forum to the new engines that debuted in 2011.

5.0 short block replacement

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 02-10-2018, 11:21 PM
  #31  
Junior Member
 
Barry Odell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default 2013 f-150 super crew 5.0

In the old 87 f-150 in-line 300 (their best motor for average trucks
the best oil was 20/50 people say it’s to thick but it stopped all that knock at start up and the motors lasted well I’m not sure you'd get tired of seeing it and sell or give it away before it offered any issues so factory oil guides aren’t always best thin oils can not support under pressure -high rpms- that’s what heavier weight oils are for is different conditions
if you often tack one high with 5/20. Or 10/30 or any thin oil you will regret it
I pusonaly have been a die hard ford fan for decades but they have all but changed that these new engines are powerful but that leads to the issues Chevy and dodge have always suffered from you can’t have but so much power and quality they are oxymorons I bought ford for quality and lasting any piece of crap can last 250,000 miles with multi repairs motors rear ends and repeated component maintenance but ford always done it with out this just drive the dam things and they went and went but now y’all sound like a bunch of Chevy or dodge people just ok with these less than good (as ford has always been known for) vehicles a good product don’t have people saying that the 5.0s ackealies heal is using oil a piece of crap uses oil not a vehicle you want I have a 2013 f-150 5.0 super crew and had a 2001 f-150 flare side 2 door 5.4 I complained about the stupidity of having a gear leaver you can’t use to change gears with out messing up the computer and then they done the ABSOLUTE dumbest thing I have ever seen they put a position on the gear leaver that stops all gear changing except for a button on the same leaver this is a engine killer if there ever was one I mean dang I love the truck as far as sitting in it and driving it but so far I don’t like the two trucks I’ve owned of ford and I thought I would never say that but here we are
Old 02-11-2018, 09:26 AM
  #32  
Senior Member
 
Koolponycar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: South
Posts: 1,519
Received 159 Likes on 134 Posts

Default

Well, I think I understand most of your post. And I think you are saying that the older fords would last longer without issues. Most anything of yesterdays even washers and dryers were made to last. Ive had a new set and in the last 2 years had the washer replaced and the element burned out in the dryer under 2 years, and those were sam sung. Back to ford, Ive never seen my old short block that was replaced because fo the knock use any oil. But I always change it every 6 months or 5,000 miles. There are some that go by the oil life monitor and go up to 8-10,000 miles. I used 5w20 MC for those 5,000 mile changes. I now on the new SB will use 5w30 my preference but I think in the heat of the summer this will be best as i plan on keeping this truck, its already 6 years old. Things are made different today in mass production, and thats why regular maintenance is needed more often than those of the past. You can just drive the dam thing and then the dam thing will quite for sure, or you can be proactive and do regular maintenance on time. But I get what your saying, things like the EPAS and other Tech designs to make the new ride nice, just don't last. SO its fix or repair daily or buy one from the other auto makers and deal with their issues as well, trust me they have them too.
Old 02-11-2018, 11:39 AM
  #33  
Senior Member
 
isthatahemi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,853
Received 1,027 Likes on 734 Posts

Default

I find the idea that anything in the automotive world from the past was better in pretty much any way. If you want to compare a powerless slug of an engine, that just flat out wouldn't work in this era to a generally tough as nails coyote, that's laughable as well.
There will be defects in a certain number of anything mass produced, and I agree appliances have been cheapened, but the cutting edge tech in the newer F150's is so much better than 10 years ago, never mind 20 or 30, that I really have to wonder where Barry's post comes from.

With regards to his statements on oil, the bulk of recent research has show that thinner oils with the much higher shear strength of todays oils, protect far better under everything except the most extreme use (and only if you define extreme as continuous high temp, high load, most extreme use is actually cold start drive-away's) and most wear occurs on cold startup, and the miles following, and thinner oils mitigate that. They do help mileage, but that doesn't mean they are any worse in any other regard. The thinking that thicker oils protects better, arises from old info, and presumably the fact that they do work better in worn and or out of spec or loose tolerance engines. Anything but the recommended viscosity for the average user is asking for trouble. (Everything from the VCT system to the oil pump design is built around the parameters of the oil Ford specs). Yes, there are exceptions, but they don't really apply for 99.9% of users. My truck is tuned, turns 7K rpms and takes a Nitrous shot, and goes 16K between changes, with 5W20 synthetic, because I think that the spec oil will do the best job, and I doubt I know better than those who designed it.

Last edited by isthatahemi; 02-11-2018 at 11:41 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by isthatahemi:
Koolponycar (02-11-2018), RLXXI (02-11-2018)
Old 02-11-2018, 01:41 PM
  #34  
Senior Member
 
Koolponycar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: South
Posts: 1,519
Received 159 Likes on 134 Posts

Default

Remember that old slug was a cast iron block which most are going to the aluminum now. The technology and advancements of today with engines and oil are much better and 5w20 will be fine for the average user. Plus it Keeps the CAFE fines back for the auto makers. Everyone knows that cold start up is the first cause of engine wear where any oil that has the same first w rating will perform the same cold, but extreme heat like heavy towing in the summer or Tuning with nitrous, advancing more timing and reving past the factory rpms is not recommended either and will surely increase engine cylinder pressures and heat. Heat is what usually breaks down oil like you said and for the average user a 5w20 will be fine, but extended oil changes over 10K are not recommended but you are going past that too.Why because the oil being full synthetic claims its that good. So I see your point and the engineers I'm sure know whats best for the masses across the country, But there are vehicles that have been back spec'd for a lighter oil when they in fact ran a heavier oil, and current vehicles that have been brought up to 30 because of application. So you can't go wrong following the manufactures spec for sure, but there are varying factors to always consider and design and use are the first. There are guys running both grades on here even supercharged, So pick your poison but money drives everything when it comes down to it in most cases. I will run the 30 and you run the 20 and we will both be happy. You do make some very valid points, I just feel like from my research and area I live that 30 will perform better for my use.
Old 02-11-2018, 06:06 PM
  #35  
Senior Member
 
isthatahemi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 3,853
Received 1,027 Likes on 734 Posts

Default

Good post - very well put.

To clarify - I meant 16K as 16,000kms (Canadian here lol) 10K miles, my fault there.

And I’m not knocking the use of 5w30, I think that if you have an application with high oil temperatures, it’s probably a good choice, I’m just not sure how it impacts the VCT. Oil recommendations by the manufacturer used to be a joke (imo) as oil temps were poorly controlled, and overheating and killing the oil was common under hard use, now coolers are standard on our trucks; which is the single biggest longevity improvement imo.

Last edited by isthatahemi; 02-11-2018 at 06:11 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Koolponycar (02-11-2018)
Old 02-11-2018, 07:02 PM
  #36  
Senior Member
 
Koolponycar's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: South
Posts: 1,519
Received 159 Likes on 134 Posts

Default

Lol! I thought that was 16,000 and I was like its possible but since you are using performance enhancements I thought that might be a bit much. VCT is one of my biggest concerns too as the solenoids have filter screens on them. I found a video that Makuloco does on that the ford tech on youtube. I also spoke to a Shell Rep about the Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w20 vs 5w30 and the differences. He could not come out and recommend the 5w30, but did say like you said for my 2009 crv that has 100,000 it would be ok. I did get another Rep there that did say they thought it would be fine since I live in the south, and that was mostly my thinking is that we have more mild winters here. Today it was 71* here, I just started my YZ450F and took it for a short spin to blow the cobbs out!
The following users liked this post:
isthatahemi (02-11-2018)
Old 07-09-2019, 03:14 PM
  #37  
Junior Member
 
hugh_hef150's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: PHOENIX, AZ
Posts: 7
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Koolponycar
Some have asked if it is different. I could not tell with a naked eye but here is my new OEM short block that replaced my knocking 2012. They took the cab off nice and neat, and put it back together the same way, nice neat and clean.
What were you quoted for on this job? I have the same truck and need engine replaced



Quick Reply: 5.0 short block replacement



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:06 PM.