5.0 oil
 

Hey guys, I have been thinking about going to full synthetic oilin my 2013 5.0. Have you guys switched from blended to full? And do you guys recommend staying with motorcraft oil and oil filter?

I changed the oil on my 2014 5.0 at 1500 kms because I wanted fresh oil before towing. I used Castrol Edge 5W20 and a Motorcraft filter. The reason I went full synthetic is because here in Canada, Motorcraft oil only seems to be available at stealerships at stealerships sickeningly high prices. I can't remember for sure what it was, but it was significantly more than the 32.99 plus taxes I paid for 6 litres of Castrol Edge at Costco (when on sale). I had a couple of bottles left over from my old Santa Fe, so I finished off the change with those. Same oil, just a couple months older.

There is no difference I have noticed. What would I even notice? Same amount of oil in the catch can 1000 kms later as there was with the factory fill.

Motorcraft 5W20 Syn Blend & Motorcraft Filter Only For Me!

Wayne

Thanks guys, I was just wondering what everyone else was doing. And was just getting opinions on if not to stay with syn blend or go full blown synthetic.

A lot do switch to Full Syn, but I am one of a few that have actually pulled a motor apart after 92K miles of running only MC Syn Blend & MC Filter every 3K and was very very surprised as to how clean it was with ZERO signs of wear. Cylinder walls still had honing marks on them. After wiping the cans down, they looks brand new! So for that I'm not sold that Syn is needed. Plus I do 3K oil changes anyways.

Wayne

Synthetic "blend" is the biggest rip-off ever. No where does it give the percentage of the "blend". It's most likely 99% conventional, 1% synthetic, at 75% synthetic pricing. Why anyone would ever run even half conventional is beyond me. Synthetic all the way. It's like saying, I'm half carbureted, half EFI. Why?

I like to change my oil infrequently which is where synthetic really shines. If you change oil every 3-5k miles it's a waste of $$ to run full synthetic.

Mobil 1 for 1st oil change and once I send a sample to blackstone labs for analysis, the results of that test will determine how often I will change it from here on out.

My driving habits are below the average because I live less than 2 miles from my job and I like to take my motorcycle as often as weather permits.

I also opted for the full syn because I'm running a tune, every little bit helps at least in my mind any way LOL.

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I have been running Amsoil in my past 3 tow vehicles.


Great UOA's and things look great when pulling covers off.


Running the XL line in my 5.0 with motorcraft filter.

I ran Mobil 1 5w-30 in my car and beat the crap out of it. But, my last truck and is truck have gotten Motorcraft factory fill at every oil change. Bobistheoilguy has ststed that MC synblend, commonly known as Conoco Clearblend is excellent oil. That being said, Mobil 1 is no longer a full synthetic as its base is actual dinosaurs. Amsoil and Royal Purple, along with Redline are all great oils. If you want to be a snob, German made Castrol is some of the best synthetic avaiable. If you want to do some good, scientific, fact based reading and not a bunch of "this oil sucks" "those guys rip you off" threads.....head over to the Greasy Spoon page at svtperformance.com

Just had mine changed at dealer using MC Syn/blend. They always send me coupons for $5 off. SO total out the door using filter and 8 quarts was $38.27 The oil and filter at walmart will cost almost that much. I change mine usually every 4k or 6monsths which ever comes first. Conoco phillips is good oil and they also make Kendall with liquid titanium. I use the Kendall in my sons ranger every 3k for him with a coupon at Firestone for $19.95, thats 5 quarts. As long as you change your oil and filter on time or by how extreme you use your truck you will be fine. Its your wallet and with oil and marketing the sky is the limit.

I'm running Mobil1 full synthetic with Motorcraft filter in my 5.0. I have used Mobil1 full synthetic oil in almost all my cars for years with zero issues. I usually let them go 10k miles between changes.
The only vehicle I ran Motorcraft synthetic blend in was my 2003 F150 5.4 because that was the only oil that didn't make wrist pin/piston slap noise.

I was reading a thread about the 5w20 Motorcraft synthetic blend on the bobistheoilguy website and this oil is the real deal. 50% synthetic unlike most other blends and it has a very good reputation in the industry. keeps engine internals looking pristine after 100k miles. I'm at 3500 miles on my latest fill and the oil still looks pretty new. Mobil 1 full synthetic on my Ranger was almost black after 3k miles. I know that also has to do with the engine and not the oil, but you cant go wrong with either of these oils.

Do some reading over at BITOG. Agree with the above comments about "syn blends" but be aware the MC stuff is a strong oil and can hold its own with any out there. I have always used that as my "gold standard" and unless I can find an oil I know is better (M1,QSFS,PP,etc) at the same or better price its my default.


That said, I am currently stocked up on Quaker State Full synthetic from a recent sale and after reading the info on BITOG and http://www.pqiamerica.com/ I feel VERY comfortable and confident in this oil.

You can't go wrong with Mobil 1, I will be switching to it on next oil change. I have run it in my Toyotas the last 10 years and the engines stay pretty clean inside. Motorcraft filters are good filters for the money. No need to change them.

If you want a good synthetic get the 0W30 Castrol Edge from Autozone or Pep Boys or order 0w30 Amsoil.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...ustang-gt.html

And I would change my filter before wouldn't change my oil.

Just a heads up for you guys. If you have an Advance Auto near you they have some decent Oil Change specials going on this month:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/o/motor-oil

I used the Pennzoul Ultra + Fram Ultra as it's a great deal on great oil and a great filter. They have some Castrol and Mobil 1 deals too. Although I'd not use the Purolator filter - many reports of media tears from BITOG members.